Best year for old 2- wheel pickup

"km" <meyerkarl DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1177091727.395360.71800@n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> Hey Folks,
>
> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive
> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and
> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small
> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do
> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I
> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means
> a lot of years as a low buget ride.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Karl
>

I had a '94 Toyota PU that I bought in December 1993. Sold it last month
when I bought a new Tacoma Access cab. That '94 was still going strong.
--
Bearman

America: Land of the free because of the brave.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

On 20 Apr 2007 10:55:27 -0700, km <meyerkarl RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote:

>Hey Folks,
>
>Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive
>extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and
>rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small
>camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do
>some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I
>can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means
>a lot of years as a low buget ride.
>

Another vote for Toyota.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

In article <1177091727.395360.71800 DeleteThis @n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>,
km <meyerkarl DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hey Folks,
>
> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive
> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and
> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small
> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do
> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I
> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means
> a lot of years as a low buget ride.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Karl

Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the
excellent 22R engine.
The first real trucks were from '79 to '83.
The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I
own 3 of them).
Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94.
The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in
that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round
exhaust ports.
These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body
style had changed.
The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a
ever growing emissions control.
The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version.
The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel
injection.
The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP.
I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs,
I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks.
Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by
yourself.
The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of
the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more
sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot.

In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few
transmissions to look for.
The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will
be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's.
You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's.
The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity.
Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions.
My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny.
Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14.
These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy
loads.
My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid.
It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs.
Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton.
makes a world of difference.
Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines.

In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the
Xtra-cab with a longbed.
In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a
3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it.
In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the
22R engine.
Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

km wrote:

> Hey Folks,
>
> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive
> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and
> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small
> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do
> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I
> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means
> a lot of years as a low buget ride.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Karl
>

I have a'92 ext cab pu, bought in March '93.

I have replaced the clutch, and the fuel pump (twice).

repainted, and Linex bed liner painted.

new stereo radio

Something in the throttle (mass flow sensor maybe, under warranty).



Nothing else.

Will have 300,000 miles in about a month.

Transmission whines in 5th gear.

Otherwise excellent daily driver, get right at 29-30 mpg.

j.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

"Ernie Leimkuhler" <stagesmith.RemoveThis@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:stagesmith-7350A6.22451520042007@news.west.earthlink.net...
> In article <1177091727.395360.71800.RemoveThis@n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>,
> km <meyerkarl.RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey Folks,
>>
>> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive
>> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and
>> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small
>> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do
>> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I
>> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means
>> a lot of years as a low buget ride.
>>
>> Thanks for any help.
>>
>> Warm Regards,
>>
>> Karl
>
> Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the
> excellent 22R engine.
> The first real trucks were from '79 to '83.
> The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I
> own 3 of them).
> Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94.
> The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in
> that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round
> exhaust ports.

I think you are confusing the 20R with the 22R engine. The 20R engine was
used until 1980 and was replaced by the 22R in 1981.


> These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body
> style had changed.
> The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a
> ever growing emissions control.
> The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version.
> The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel
> injection.
> The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP.
> I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs,
> I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks.
> Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by
> yourself.
> The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of
> the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more
> sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot.
>
> In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few
> transmissions to look for.
> The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will
> be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's.
> You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's.
> The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity.
> Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions.
> My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny.
> Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14.
> These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy
> loads.
> My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid.
> It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs.
> Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton.
> makes a world of difference.
> Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines.
>
> In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the
> Xtra-cab with a longbed.
> In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a
> 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it.
> In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the
> 22R engine.

The Tacoma never used the 22R engine. The 2 wheel drive models used the
2RZ-FE, which was also a 2.4L. The 4 wheel drive model used the 3RZ-FE which
is a 2.7L.

> Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

In article <gDqXh.7304$ya1.6390@news02.roc.ny>,
"Mike" <mik.RemoveThis@localnet.com> wrote:

> "Ernie Leimkuhler" <stagesmith.RemoveThis@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:stagesmith-7350A6.22451520042007@news.west.earthlink.net...
> > In article <1177091727.395360.71800.RemoveThis@n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>,
> > km <meyerkarl.RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hey Folks,
> >>
> >> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive
> >> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and
> >> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small
> >> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do
> >> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I
> >> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means
> >> a lot of years as a low buget ride.
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help.
> >>
> >> Warm Regards,
> >>
> >> Karl
> >
> > Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the
> > excellent 22R engine.
> > The first real trucks were from '79 to '83.
> > The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I
> > own 3 of them).
> > Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94.
> > The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in
> > that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round
> > exhaust ports.
>
> I think you are confusing the 20R with the 22R engine. The 20R engine was
> used until 1980 and was replaced by the 22R in 1981.
>
>

I know a 20R since I had one in my '78 toyota truck.

Have you ever rebuilt a 22R in your life?
I have rebuilt 8 of them.
There are 2 distinct families of 22R's.
You are right that it began in '81, not '79.
The earlier model can be seen in any '83 and some '84's.
It is easiest to spot it in the truck since it uses a 7 bolt exhaust
manifold.
So it has 3 bolts on each end and one dead center.
If you removed the exhaust manifold you would fine ROUND exhaust ports.

The 22R's made from late '84 to '95 have an 8 bolt exhaust manifold.
If you removed that manifold you would find PEAR SHAPED exhaust ports.

The earlier 22Rs have a shorter block, thicker head and longer timing
chain.
They also have what are called "domed" pistons, with a raised half ring
on the combustion surface of the piston.
Many parts are interchangeable between the 2 types of 22R's, like the
cranks shaft, cam shaft, and valves, but most parts of different.

Quoted from
http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20Information/22r_tech_notes.htm

"The 20R 2200cc. / 22R 2400cc. engines were the most popular US Toyota
engines. For 20 years, 1975 to 1995, these motors served as U.S.Toyota's
dependable workhorse engine. These engines powered the popular Celicas
until 1985, and the unbreakable Pick-up models used these engines until
1995 (in commercial models). Turbo models appeared briefly as the 22RTE
in 1985-1988 on Pick-up and 4Runners. The 22RE Fuel injection models
appeared in 1983, on some Celica and Pick-up models. In 1985- the 22RE
had a major change. The block was taller and the head shorter, compared
to the earlier models. The engines' blocks and heads are not
interchangeable (for practical and cost purpose)."






> > These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body
> > style had changed.
> > The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a
> > ever growing emissions control.
> > The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version.
> > The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel
> > injection.
> > The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP.
> > I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs,
> > I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks.
> > Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by
> > yourself.
> > The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of
> > the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more
> > sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot.
> >
> > In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few
> > transmissions to look for.
> > The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will
> > be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's.
> > You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's.
> > The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity.
> > Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions.
> > My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny.
> > Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14.
> > These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy
> > loads.
> > My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid.
> > It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs.
> > Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton.
> > makes a world of difference.
> > Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines.
> >
> > In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the
> > Xtra-cab with a longbed.
> > In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a
> > 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it.
> > In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the
> > 22R engine.
>
> The Tacoma never used the 22R engine. The 2 wheel drive models used the
> 2RZ-FE, which was also a 2.4L. The 4 wheel drive model used the 3RZ-FE which
> is a 2.7L.
>
> > Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

Ernie,

Since you seem pretty darned knowledgeable on these little trucks, can I ask
you about a Horn problem I have in my 86 pickup?

My old horn sounded like an old goose when I honked it: It started slow,
then went to a sick sound. Instead of "BEEP" it went "muuu eeeh" (don't know
how else to describe it).

So far, I have replaced the brass horn pin under the steering wheel - didn't
help.

So, I went to the auto parts store and got an extra loud "low tone" horn.
Installed it, and it sounds exactly like the old horn!

There must be a wiring problem somewhere or maybe there is a horn relay that
is corroded. I looked in my factory Repair Manual and in my Chilton's
manual, but nothing says anything about how to bring the old, soggy horn
back to life.

Any thoughts?
~Joe

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote
> Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the
> excellent 22R engine.
> The first real trucks were from '79 to '83.
> The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I
> own 3 of them).
> Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94.
> The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in
> that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round
> exhaust ports.
> These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body
> style had changed.
> The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a
> ever growing emissions control.
> The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version.
> The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel
> injection.
> The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP.
> I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs,
> I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks.
> Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by
> yourself.
> The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of
> the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more
> sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot.
>
> In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few
> transmissions to look for.
> The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will
> be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's.
> You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's.
> The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity.
> Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions.
> My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny.
> Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14.
> These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy
> loads.
> My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid.
> It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs.
> Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton.
> makes a world of difference.
> Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines.
>
> In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the
> Xtra-cab with a longbed.
> In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a
> 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it.
> In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the
> 22R engine.
> Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

"jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Ts2Yh.1035$uJ6.875@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net...
> Ernie,
>
> Since you seem pretty darned knowledgeable on these little trucks, can I
> ask
> you about a Horn problem I have in my 86 pickup?
>
> My old horn sounded like an old goose when I honked it: It started slow,
> then went to a sick sound. Instead of "BEEP" it went "muuu eeeh" (don't
> know
> how else to describe it).
>
> So far, I have replaced the brass horn pin under the steering wheel -
> didn't
> help.
>
> So, I went to the auto parts store and got an extra loud "low tone" horn.
> Installed it, and it sounds exactly like the old horn!
>
> There must be a wiring problem somewhere or maybe there is a horn relay
> that
> is corroded. I looked in my factory Repair Manual and in my Chilton's
> manual, but nothing says anything about how to bring the old, soggy horn
> back to life.
>
> Any thoughts?
> ~Joe


You can start by connecting the horn directly to the battery with a jumper
wire and see if the horn changes tone, that will tell you if the horn is the
problem. Do you have a wiring diagram for the horn cicuit ?
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

In article <Ts2Yh.1035$uJ6.875@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net>,
"jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:

> Ernie,
>
> Since you seem pretty darned knowledgeable on these little trucks, can I ask
> you about a Horn problem I have in my 86 pickup?
>
> My old horn sounded like an old goose when I honked it: It started slow,
> then went to a sick sound. Instead of "BEEP" it went "muuu eeeh" (don't know
> how else to describe it).
>
> So far, I have replaced the brass horn pin under the steering wheel - didn't
> help.
>
> So, I went to the auto parts store and got an extra loud "low tone" horn.
> Installed it, and it sounds exactly like the old horn!
>
> There must be a wiring problem somewhere or maybe there is a horn relay that
> is corroded. I looked in my factory Repair Manual and in my Chilton's
> manual, but nothing says anything about how to bring the old, soggy horn
> back to life.
>
> Any thoughts?
> ~Joe
>

Sounds like water got inside the coil in the old horn.
If water gets inside it will kill the coil and hence the sound output.
Easier to find another in a junkyard.

I think I have 4 of them scattered around my parts boxes.
I currently have enough parts to assemble 2-1/2 working trucks.





> "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote
> > Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the
> > excellent 22R engine.
> > The first real trucks were from '79 to '83.
> > The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I
> > own 3 of them).
> > Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94.
> > The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in
> > that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round
> > exhaust ports.
> > These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body
> > style had changed.
> > The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a
> > ever growing emissions control.
> > The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version.
> > The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel
> > injection.
> > The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP.
> > I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs,
> > I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks.
> > Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by
> > yourself.
> > The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of
> > the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more
> > sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot.
> >
> > In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few
> > transmissions to look for.
> > The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will
> > be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's.
> > You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's.
> > The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity.
> > Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions.
> > My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny.
> > Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14.
> > These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy
> > loads.
> > My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid.
> > It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs.
> > Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton.
> > makes a world of difference.
> > Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines.
> >
> > In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the
> > Xtra-cab with a longbed.
> > In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a
> > 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it.
> > In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the
> > 22R engine.
> > Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

The old horn will blow/honk loud enough to bring blood to your ears if it is
connected directly to the battery.

In other words, yes, the horn works great!

I do not have a wiring diagram for the horn circuit. Any idea where I could
find one to print out?

"Mike" wrote
>
> You can start by connecting the horn directly to the battery with a
> jumper wire and see if the horn changes tone, that will tell you if the
> horn is the problem. Do you have a wiring diagram for the horn cicuit ?
>
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

Hi Ernie,

Yes, it would seem like water got inside the coil or something like that,
but the new horn that I got from the Auto Parts store sounds exactly the
same! ...and it is supposed to be a different tone.

Any thoughts?

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote
>
> Sounds like water got inside the coil in the old horn.
> If water gets inside it will kill the coil and hence the sound output.
> Easier to find another in a junkyard.
>
> I think I have 4 of them scattered around my parts boxes.
> I currently have enough parts to assemble 2-1/2 working trucks.
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

"jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hhnYh.2279$H84.244@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
> The old horn will blow/honk loud enough to bring blood to your ears if it
> is connected directly to the battery.

That's what I thought, the horn is fine.


>
> In other words, yes, the horn works great!
>
> I do not have a wiring diagram for the horn circuit. Any idea where I
> could find one to print out?

No idea were you can find one to print, at least I wasn't able to find
anything.

I would first check for a bad ground to the horn. Starting at the horn see
if you can trace the ground wire to were it connects to the chassis. Make
sure it is clean and tight. I would also check the horn relay, it's possible
the contacts are burnt and pitted. If you have a multimeter you can check
to see if you have 12 volts at the horn. If you have high resistance in that
circuit it should show up as low voltage. If possible, visually inspect the
horn wiring for any partial breaks in the wiring. It would be possible to
have a wire that is cut half way through test OK but not provide enough
current flow under load.

>
> "Mike" wrote
>>
>> You can start by connecting the horn directly to the battery with a
>> jumper wire and see if the horn changes tone, that will tell you if the
>> horn is the problem. Do you have a wiring diagram for the horn cicuit ?
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Best year for old 2- wheel pickup 

In article <MinYh.2280$H84.1280@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net>,
"jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Ernie,
>
> Yes, it would seem like water got inside the coil or something like that,
> but the new horn that I got from the Auto Parts store sounds exactly the
> same! ...and it is supposed to be a different tone.
>
> Any thoughts?

Probably a corroded terminal somewhere between the steering wheel and
the horn.
The corrosion is acting as a resistor.

Could take a while to find.
I had a problem with my '85 truck with a tiny leak in the middle of the
bottom edge of the windshield.
The constant slow dripping of water got all the way down inside the
dashboard and ended up damaging the air blower vent controls and some
wiring.
Absolutely the worst thing to have to fix on a Toyota truck is the air
box.
It requires the complete removal of the dash and all it's sub-structures.


>
> "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote
> >
> > Sounds like water got inside the coil in the old horn.
> > If water gets inside it will kill the coil and hence the sound output.
> > Easier to find another in a junkyard.
> >
> > I think I have 4 of them scattered around my parts boxes.
> > I currently have enough parts to assemble 2-1/2 working trucks.
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