theft system problems

OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at GM for
designing the system that apparently is a common problem. There has to be a
way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm sorry if I offended you.
Please help if you can.


Scott


"Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
 >I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
 >
 >
 > --
 > Jason E.
 > ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
 > GM Master Certified Technician
 >
 >
 > "Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
 > news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
  >>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the answers
  >>to
  >> these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has a
  >> 2000
  >> Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her from
  >> starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can find
  >> are
  >> the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking to the
  >> dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
  >>
  >> So, my questions are;
  >> 1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do that
  >> to
  >> sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
  >> 2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I can
  >> live
  >> with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car stolen
  >> than
  >> my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring diagrams
  >> from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the switch to
  >> run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
  >> black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance never
  >> changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84 meg. I was
  >> hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required when in run.
  >>
  >> Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system without
  >> spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from what I
  >> understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel system. Does
  >> that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do it some other
  >> way? Please help with any information you have.
  >>
  >>
  >> Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't think
  >> the dealer deserves!)
  >>
  >>
  >> Scott
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

No problem. It kind of gets my goat when I read message after message about
people who goto dealers and think they are getting ripped off most the time.
I thought the same also until I went to work for one. The dealership is the
absolute best place to get your car worked on but, I agree it is pricey.
However, its not the technician that sets the price of labor. Its the
dealership itself. I only get less then 20% of each labor hour I spend
working on customer cars. Overhead for my dealership is over 300,000 a
month. This includes the expensive training program and tools to do the job
right. Parts markup is over 100% on most items {which I do not agree with}.
There are good technicians and bad ones at dealerships. Good ones might
spend the time to give free help on newgroups. Something I get paid for
everyday, I do it for free just to help people. So, yes it does bother me
when read people that think they are getting messed over everytime they set
foot in a dealership. My advice is to do your homework and find one good
particular technician at your dealership and request that he work on your
car evertime you bring it in. I have a very large customer base that asks
for me and will even wait a few days until I can get to their vehicle to
repair it because they trust me. I don't sell things to customers that they
dont need and I don't overcharge for the work that I do. I think thats fair,
don't you? I have no control over parts prices and the shop labor rate. I do
want to make a living and get a paycheck every friday just like anyone else.
Anyways, off my soapbox.

You're correct, this is a very common problem. I fix about 1 a week. Its a
very effective system and unfortunately, can't be bypassed as far as I know.
Its effective in part becasue it can't be "bypassed" by a thief to steal
your car. The problem lies in the actual key cylinder and cylinder case.
There is a sensor that tends to read the wrong input from time to time
enabling the theft mode if the key cylinder gets worn. I've emailed you at
the address you provided the description and operation of the system so that
you can understand how it works. You cannot just install a resistor like the
old days, it just does not work that way. It is not even close to the old
"chip in key system." So much is involved that I don't see a way that it can
be bypassed safely. You will have to buy the ignition lock cylinder, 10
tumblers, 10 tumbler springs, and1 tumber retainer. You then have to know
how to read your key to determine the key code so that you know what
tumblers to order. Then you arrange the tumblers, and springs into the
ignition lock cylinder in the correct order. Install the tumbler springs,
then the spring retainer. Place the cylinder into the cylinder case. Remove
your radio from your car. This gives you access to the side of the ignition
switch. Access the release button on the old cylinder with the key in the
run position. Pull and remove the case assy. Install your newly built case
into the switch. Then perform the program proceedure.

If you want to save the money and buy just the part and try to tackle this
yourself, I will help you the best I can. Just contact me through email or
here. You may save close to $80 doing it yourself. Truth be told, its worth
the money just to let the dealership do the work. I can get it done in under
30 mins including 10 mins to program the new passlock sensor. Reading the
key is the hardest part. Good luck and let me know what you decide to do.
Hope I was of some help.


--
Jason E.
ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
GM Master Certified Technician


"Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
news:10o37r8fm8pu70@corp.supernews.com...
 > OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at GM
 > for designing the system that apparently is a common problem. There has
 > to be a way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm sorry if I
 > offended you. Please help if you can.
 >
 >
 > Scott
 >
 >
 > "Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
 > news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
  >>I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
  >>
  >>
  >> --
  >> Jason E.
  >> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
  >> GM Master Certified Technician
  >>
  >>
  >> "Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
  >> news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the answers
   >>>to
   >>> these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has a
   >>> 2000
   >>> Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her from
   >>> starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can find
   >>> are
   >>> the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking to
   >>> the
   >>> dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
   >>>
   >>> So, my questions are;
   >>> 1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do that
   >>> to
   >>> sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
   >>> 2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I can
   >>> live
   >>> with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car stolen
   >>> than
   >>> my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring
   >>> diagrams
   >>> from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the switch
   >>> to
   >>> run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
   >>> black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance
   >>> never changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84 meg. I
   >>> was hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required when in
   >>> run.
   >>>
   >>> Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system
   >>> without spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from what
   >>> I understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel system.
   >>> Does that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do it some
   >>> other way? Please help with any information you have.
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't think
   >>> the dealer deserves!)
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> Scott
   >>>
  >>
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Thank you for that information. I will be scheduling it to be fixed at the
dealer early next week. I appreciate you sending the information but the
email I list isn't valid because of spam. I would be interested in reading
what you have though, so if you wouldn't mind could you please sent it to
sdelagrange at charter dot net. Hopefully once it's fixed we won't have to
worry about it again. It'll just take time for my daughter to get her
confidence back with it.

From what I can gather from the various passlock bypass kits for remote
starters, it looks like the resistance needs to be across the black and
yellow wire only in run which I could accomplish with a simple relay but the
problem is I couldn't get a reading.


Thank you again for your help. (and sorry for the mis-directed frustration)


Scott


"Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
news:7ADgd.11235$233.2973@okepread05...
 > No problem. It kind of gets my goat when I read message after message
 > about people who goto dealers and think they are getting ripped off most
 > the time. I thought the same also until I went to work for one. The
 > dealership is the absolute best place to get your car worked on but, I
 > agree it is pricey. However, its not the technician that sets the price of
 > labor. Its the dealership itself. I only get less then 20% of each labor
 > hour I spend working on customer cars. Overhead for my dealership is over
 > 300,000 a month. This includes the expensive training program and tools to
 > do the job right. Parts markup is over 100% on most items {which I do not
 > agree with}. There are good technicians and bad ones at dealerships. Good
 > ones might spend the time to give free help on newgroups. Something I get
 > paid for everyday, I do it for free just to help people. So, yes it does
 > bother me when read people that think they are getting messed over
 > everytime they set foot in a dealership. My advice is to do your homework
 > and find one good particular technician at your dealership and request
 > that he work on your car evertime you bring it in. I have a very large
 > customer base that asks for me and will even wait a few days until I can
 > get to their vehicle to repair it because they trust me. I don't sell
 > things to customers that they dont need and I don't overcharge for the
 > work that I do. I think thats fair, don't you? I have no control over
 > parts prices and the shop labor rate. I do want to make a living and get a
 > paycheck every friday just like anyone else. Anyways, off my soapbox.
 >
 > You're correct, this is a very common problem. I fix about 1 a week. Its a
 > very effective system and unfortunately, can't be bypassed as far as I
 > know. Its effective in part becasue it can't be "bypassed" by a thief to
 > steal your car. The problem lies in the actual key cylinder and cylinder
 > case. There is a sensor that tends to read the wrong input from time to
 > time enabling the theft mode if the key cylinder gets worn. I've emailed
 > you at the address you provided the description and operation of the
 > system so that you can understand how it works. You cannot just install a
 > resistor like the old days, it just does not work that way. It is not even
 > close to the old "chip in key system." So much is involved that I don't
 > see a way that it can be bypassed safely. You will have to buy the
 > ignition lock cylinder, 10 tumblers, 10 tumbler springs, and1 tumber
 > retainer. You then have to know how to read your key to determine the key
 > code so that you know what tumblers to order. Then you arrange the
 > tumblers, and springs into the ignition lock cylinder in the correct
 > order. Install the tumbler springs, then the spring retainer. Place the
 > cylinder into the cylinder case. Remove your radio from your car. This
 > gives you access to the side of the ignition switch. Access the release
 > button on the old cylinder with the key in the run position. Pull and
 > remove the case assy. Install your newly built case into the switch. Then
 > perform the program proceedure.
 >
 > If you want to save the money and buy just the part and try to tackle this
 > yourself, I will help you the best I can. Just contact me through email or
 > here. You may save close to $80 doing it yourself. Truth be told, its
 > worth the money just to let the dealership do the work. I can get it done
 > in under 30 mins including 10 mins to program the new passlock sensor.
 > Reading the key is the hardest part. Good luck and let me know what you
 > decide to do. Hope I was of some help.
 >
 >
 > --
 > Jason E.
 > ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
 > GM Master Certified Technician
 >
 >
 > "Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
 > news:10o37r8fm8pu70@corp.supernews.com...
  >> OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at GM
  >> for designing the system that apparently is a common problem. There has
  >> to be a way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm sorry if I
  >> offended you. Please help if you can.
  >>
  >>
  >> Scott
  >>
  >>
  >> "Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
  >> news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
   >>>I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> --
   >>> Jason E.
   >>> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>> GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> "Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>> news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the
   >>>>answers to
   >>>> these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has a
   >>>> 2000
   >>>> Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her from
   >>>> starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can find
   >>>> are
   >>>> the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking to
   >>>> the
   >>>> dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
   >>>>
   >>>> So, my questions are;
   >>>> 1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do
   >>>> that to
   >>>> sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
   >>>> 2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I can
   >>>> live
   >>>> with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car
   >>>> stolen than
   >>>> my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring
   >>>> diagrams
   >>>> from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the switch
   >>>> to
   >>>> run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
   >>>> black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance
   >>>> never changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84 meg.
   >>>> I was hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required when in
   >>>> run.
   >>>>
   >>>> Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system
   >>>> without spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from
   >>>> what I understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel
   >>>> system. Does that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do it
   >>>> some other way? Please help with any information you have.
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't think
   >>>> the dealer deserves!)
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> Scott
   >>>>
   >>>
   >>>
  >>
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Scott I resent the info to the new email address. I trust you already have a
schematic, seems your familliar with the circuits. If you need that also let
me know. I wish I could tell you that it wouldn't happen again, but the
truth is that one day it probably will when the new cylinder wears out. I
know thats not what you wanted to hear but its the sad truth. Wish you luck.
If I can help anymore let me know. And BTW no hard feelings, I understand
the way you feel. I'm just glad I can help somewhat.

--
Jason E.
ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
GM Master Certified Technician


"Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
news:10o8hm863jsp49e@corp.supernews.com...
 > Thank you for that information. I will be scheduling it to be fixed at
 > the dealer early next week. I appreciate you sending the information but
 > the email I list isn't valid because of spam. I would be interested in
 > reading what you have though, so if you wouldn't mind could you please
 > sent it to sdelagrange at charter dot net. Hopefully once it's fixed we
 > won't have to worry about it again. It'll just take time for my daughter
 > to get her confidence back with it.
 >
 > From what I can gather from the various passlock bypass kits for remote
 > starters, it looks like the resistance needs to be across the black and
 > yellow wire only in run which I could accomplish with a simple relay but
 > the problem is I couldn't get a reading.
 >
 >
 > Thank you again for your help. (and sorry for the mis-directed
 > frustration)
 >
 >
 > Scott
 >
 >
 > "Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
 > news:7ADgd.11235$233.2973@okepread05...
  >> No problem. It kind of gets my goat when I read message after message
  >> about people who goto dealers and think they are getting ripped off most
  >> the time. I thought the same also until I went to work for one. The
  >> dealership is the absolute best place to get your car worked on but, I
  >> agree it is pricey. However, its not the technician that sets the price
  >> of labor. Its the dealership itself. I only get less then 20% of each
  >> labor hour I spend working on customer cars. Overhead for my dealership
  >> is over 300,000 a month. This includes the expensive training program and
  >> tools to do the job right. Parts markup is over 100% on most items {which
  >> I do not agree with}. There are good technicians and bad ones at
  >> dealerships. Good ones might spend the time to give free help on
  >> newgroups. Something I get paid for everyday, I do it for free just to
  >> help people. So, yes it does bother me when read people that think they
  >> are getting messed over everytime they set foot in a dealership. My
  >> advice is to do your homework and find one good particular technician at
  >> your dealership and request that he work on your car evertime you bring
  >> it in. I have a very large customer base that asks for me and will even
  >> wait a few days until I can get to their vehicle to repair it because
  >> they trust me. I don't sell things to customers that they dont need and I
  >> don't overcharge for the work that I do. I think thats fair, don't you? I
  >> have no control over parts prices and the shop labor rate. I do want to
  >> make a living and get a paycheck every friday just like anyone else.
  >> Anyways, off my soapbox.
  >>
  >> You're correct, this is a very common problem. I fix about 1 a week. Its
  >> a very effective system and unfortunately, can't be bypassed as far as I
  >> know. Its effective in part becasue it can't be "bypassed" by a thief to
  >> steal your car. The problem lies in the actual key cylinder and cylinder
  >> case. There is a sensor that tends to read the wrong input from time to
  >> time enabling the theft mode if the key cylinder gets worn. I've emailed
  >> you at the address you provided the description and operation of the
  >> system so that you can understand how it works. You cannot just install a
  >> resistor like the old days, it just does not work that way. It is not
  >> even close to the old "chip in key system." So much is involved that I
  >> don't see a way that it can be bypassed safely. You will have to buy the
  >> ignition lock cylinder, 10 tumblers, 10 tumbler springs, and1 tumber
  >> retainer. You then have to know how to read your key to determine the key
  >> code so that you know what tumblers to order. Then you arrange the
  >> tumblers, and springs into the ignition lock cylinder in the correct
  >> order. Install the tumbler springs, then the spring retainer. Place the
  >> cylinder into the cylinder case. Remove your radio from your car. This
  >> gives you access to the side of the ignition switch. Access the release
  >> button on the old cylinder with the key in the run position. Pull and
  >> remove the case assy. Install your newly built case into the switch. Then
  >> perform the program proceedure.
  >>
  >> If you want to save the money and buy just the part and try to tackle
  >> this yourself, I will help you the best I can. Just contact me through
  >> email or here. You may save close to $80 doing it yourself. Truth be
  >> told, its worth the money just to let the dealership do the work. I can
  >> get it done in under 30 mins including 10 mins to program the new
  >> passlock sensor. Reading the key is the hardest part. Good luck and let
  >> me know what you decide to do. Hope I was of some help.
  >>
  >>
  >> --
  >> Jason E.
  >> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
  >> GM Master Certified Technician
  >>
  >>
  >> "Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
  >> news:10o37r8fm8pu70@corp.supernews.com...
   >>> OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at GM
   >>> for designing the system that apparently is a common problem. There has
   >>> to be a way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm sorry if I
   >>> offended you. Please help if you can.
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> Scott
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> "Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
   >>> news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
   >>>>I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> --
   >>>> Jason E.
   >>>> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>>> GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> "Scott" <nunya DeleteThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>>> news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the
   >>>>>answers to
   >>>>> these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has a
   >>>>> 2000
   >>>>> Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her
   >>>>> from
   >>>>> starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can find
   >>>>> are
   >>>>> the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking to
   >>>>> the
   >>>>> dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
   >>>>>
   >>>>> So, my questions are;
   >>>>> 1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do
   >>>>> that to
   >>>>> sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
   >>>>> 2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I
   >>>>> can live
   >>>>> with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car
   >>>>> stolen than
   >>>>> my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring
   >>>>> diagrams
   >>>>> from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the switch
   >>>>> to
   >>>>> run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
   >>>>> black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance
   >>>>> never changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84 meg.
   >>>>> I was hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required when
   >>>>> in run.
   >>>>>
   >>>>> Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system
   >>>>> without spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from
   >>>>> what I understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel
   >>>>> system. Does that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do
   >>>>> it some other way? Please help with any information you have.
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>> Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't think
   >>>>> the dealer deserves!)
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>> Scott
   >>>>>
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>
   >>>
  >>
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Jay, the only schematics I've been able to get are the ones from the
passlock bypass makers for remote starters or from the Haynes auto manual
that I bought but Haynes doesn't have anything in it regarding this system.
So if you could, I would greatly appreciate the schematics if you could send
them.
Thanks again,

Scott

"Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
news:fH1hd.12574$233.7378@okepread05...
 > Scott I resent the info to the new email address. I trust you already have
 > a schematic, seems your familliar with the circuits. If you need that also
 > let me know. I wish I could tell you that it wouldn't happen again, but
 > the truth is that one day it probably will when the new cylinder wears
 > out. I know thats not what you wanted to hear but its the sad truth. Wish
 > you luck. If I can help anymore let me know. And BTW no hard feelings, I
 > understand the way you feel. I'm just glad I can help somewhat.
 >
 > --
 > Jason E.
 > ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
 > GM Master Certified Technician
 >
 >
 > "Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
 > news:10o8hm863jsp49e@corp.supernews.com...
  >> Thank you for that information. I will be scheduling it to be fixed at
  >> the dealer early next week. I appreciate you sending the information but
  >> the email I list isn't valid because of spam. I would be interested in
  >> reading what you have though, so if you wouldn't mind could you please
  >> sent it to sdelagrange at charter dot net. Hopefully once it's fixed we
  >> won't have to worry about it again. It'll just take time for my daughter
  >> to get her confidence back with it.
  >>
  >> From what I can gather from the various passlock bypass kits for remote
  >> starters, it looks like the resistance needs to be across the black and
  >> yellow wire only in run which I could accomplish with a simple relay but
  >> the problem is I couldn't get a reading.
  >>
  >>
  >> Thank you again for your help. (and sorry for the mis-directed
  >> frustration)
  >>
  >>
  >> Scott
  >>
  >>
  >> "Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
  >> news:7ADgd.11235$233.2973@okepread05...
   >>> No problem. It kind of gets my goat when I read message after message
   >>> about people who goto dealers and think they are getting ripped off most
   >>> the time. I thought the same also until I went to work for one. The
   >>> dealership is the absolute best place to get your car worked on but, I
   >>> agree it is pricey. However, its not the technician that sets the price
   >>> of labor. Its the dealership itself. I only get less then 20% of each
   >>> labor hour I spend working on customer cars. Overhead for my dealership
   >>> is over 300,000 a month. This includes the expensive training program
   >>> and tools to do the job right. Parts markup is over 100% on most items
   >>> {which I do not agree with}. There are good technicians and bad ones at
   >>> dealerships. Good ones might spend the time to give free help on
   >>> newgroups. Something I get paid for everyday, I do it for free just to
   >>> help people. So, yes it does bother me when read people that think they
   >>> are getting messed over everytime they set foot in a dealership. My
   >>> advice is to do your homework and find one good particular technician at
   >>> your dealership and request that he work on your car evertime you bring
   >>> it in. I have a very large customer base that asks for me and will even
   >>> wait a few days until I can get to their vehicle to repair it because
   >>> they trust me. I don't sell things to customers that they dont need and
   >>> I don't overcharge for the work that I do. I think thats fair, don't
   >>> you? I have no control over parts prices and the shop labor rate. I do
   >>> want to make a living and get a paycheck every friday just like anyone
   >>> else. Anyways, off my soapbox.
   >>>
   >>> You're correct, this is a very common problem. I fix about 1 a week. Its
   >>> a very effective system and unfortunately, can't be bypassed as far as I
   >>> know. Its effective in part becasue it can't be "bypassed" by a thief to
   >>> steal your car. The problem lies in the actual key cylinder and cylinder
   >>> case. There is a sensor that tends to read the wrong input from time to
   >>> time enabling the theft mode if the key cylinder gets worn. I've emailed
   >>> you at the address you provided the description and operation of the
   >>> system so that you can understand how it works. You cannot just install
   >>> a resistor like the old days, it just does not work that way. It is not
   >>> even close to the old "chip in key system." So much is involved that I
   >>> don't see a way that it can be bypassed safely. You will have to buy the
   >>> ignition lock cylinder, 10 tumblers, 10 tumbler springs, and1 tumber
   >>> retainer. You then have to know how to read your key to determine the
   >>> key code so that you know what tumblers to order. Then you arrange the
   >>> tumblers, and springs into the ignition lock cylinder in the correct
   >>> order. Install the tumbler springs, then the spring retainer. Place the
   >>> cylinder into the cylinder case. Remove your radio from your car. This
   >>> gives you access to the side of the ignition switch. Access the release
   >>> button on the old cylinder with the key in the run position. Pull and
   >>> remove the case assy. Install your newly built case into the switch.
   >>> Then perform the program proceedure.
   >>>
   >>> If you want to save the money and buy just the part and try to tackle
   >>> this yourself, I will help you the best I can. Just contact me through
   >>> email or here. You may save close to $80 doing it yourself. Truth be
   >>> told, its worth the money just to let the dealership do the work. I can
   >>> get it done in under 30 mins including 10 mins to program the new
   >>> passlock sensor. Reading the key is the hardest part. Good luck and let
   >>> me know what you decide to do. Hope I was of some help.
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> --
   >>> Jason E.
   >>> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>> GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> "Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>> news:10o37r8fm8pu70@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>> OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at GM
   >>>> for designing the system that apparently is a common problem. There
   >>>> has to be a way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm sorry if
   >>>> I offended you. Please help if you can.
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> Scott
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> "Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
   >>>> news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
   >>>>>I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>> --
   >>>>> Jason E.
   >>>>> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>>>> GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>> "Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>>>> news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>>>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the
   >>>>>>answers to
   >>>>>> these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has a
   >>>>>> 2000
   >>>>>> Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her
   >>>>>> from
   >>>>>> starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can
   >>>>>> find are
   >>>>>> the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking to
   >>>>>> the
   >>>>>> dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>> So, my questions are;
   >>>>>> 1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do
   >>>>>> that to
   >>>>>> sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
   >>>>>> 2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I
   >>>>>> can live
   >>>>>> with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car
   >>>>>> stolen than
   >>>>>> my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring
   >>>>>> diagrams
   >>>>>> from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the
   >>>>>> switch to
   >>>>>> run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
   >>>>>> black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance
   >>>>>> never changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84 meg.
   >>>>>> I was hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required when
   >>>>>> in run.
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>> Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system
   >>>>>> without spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from
   >>>>>> what I understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel
   >>>>>> system. Does that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do
   >>>>>> it some other way? Please help with any information you have.
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>> Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't
   >>>>>> think the dealer deserves!)
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>> Scott
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>
   >>>
  >>
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Scott wrote:
 > Jay, the only schematics I've been able to get are the ones from the
 > passlock bypass makers for remote starters or from the Haynes auto manual
 > that I bought but Haynes doesn't have anything in it regarding this system.
 > So if you could, I would greatly appreciate the schematics if you could send
 > them.
 > Thanks again,
 >
 > Scott
 >
 > "Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
 > news:fH1hd.12574$233.7378@okepread05...
 >
  >>Scott I resent the info to the new email address. I trust you already have
  >>a schematic, seems your familliar with the circuits. If you need that also
  >>let me know. I wish I could tell you that it wouldn't happen again, but
  >>the truth is that one day it probably will when the new cylinder wears
  >>out. I know thats not what you wanted to hear but its the sad truth. Wish
  >>you luck. If I can help anymore let me know. And BTW no hard feelings, I
  >>understand the way you feel. I'm just glad I can help somewhat.
  >>
  >>--
  >>Jason E.
  >>ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
  >>GM Master Certified Technician
  >>
  >>
  >>"Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
  >>news:10o8hm863jsp49e@corp.supernews.com...
  >>
   >>>Thank you for that information. I will be scheduling it to be fixed at
   >>>the dealer early next week. I appreciate you sending the information but
   >>>the email I list isn't valid because of spam. I would be interested in
   >>>reading what you have though, so if you wouldn't mind could you please
   >>>sent it to sdelagrange at charter dot net. Hopefully once it's fixed we
   >>>won't have to worry about it again. It'll just take time for my daughter
   >>>to get her confidence back with it.
   >>>
   >>>From what I can gather from the various passlock bypass kits for remote
   >>>starters, it looks like the resistance needs to be across the black and
   >>>yellow wire only in run which I could accomplish with a simple relay but
   >>>the problem is I couldn't get a reading.
   >>>
   >>>
   >>>Thank you again for your help. (and sorry for the mis-directed
   >>>frustration)
   >>>
   >>>
   >>>Scott
   >>>
   >>>
   >>>"Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
   >>>news:7ADgd.11235$233.2973@okepread05...
   >>>
   >>>>No problem. It kind of gets my goat when I read message after message
   >>>>about people who goto dealers and think they are getting ripped off most
   >>>>the time. I thought the same also until I went to work for one. The
   >>>>dealership is the absolute best place to get your car worked on but, I
   >>>>agree it is pricey. However, its not the technician that sets the price
   >>>>of labor. Its the dealership itself. I only get less then 20% of each
   >>>>labor hour I spend working on customer cars. Overhead for my dealership
   >>>>is over 300,000 a month. This includes the expensive training program
   >>>>and tools to do the job right. Parts markup is over 100% on most items
   >>>>{which I do not agree with}. There are good technicians and bad ones at
   >>>>dealerships. Good ones might spend the time to give free help on
   >>>>newgroups. Something I get paid for everyday, I do it for free just to
   >>>>help people. So, yes it does bother me when read people that think they
   >>>>are getting messed over everytime they set foot in a dealership. My
   >>>>advice is to do your homework and find one good particular technician at
   >>>>your dealership and request that he work on your car evertime you bring
   >>>>it in. I have a very large customer base that asks for me and will even
   >>>>wait a few days until I can get to their vehicle to repair it because
   >>>>they trust me. I don't sell things to customers that they dont need and
   >>>>I don't overcharge for the work that I do. I think thats fair, don't
   >>>>you? I have no control over parts prices and the shop labor rate. I do
   >>>>want to make a living and get a paycheck every friday just like anyone
   >>>>else. Anyways, off my soapbox.
   >>>>
   >>>>You're correct, this is a very common problem. I fix about 1 a week. Its
   >>>>a very effective system and unfortunately, can't be bypassed as far as I
   >>>>know. Its effective in part becasue it can't be "bypassed" by a thief to
   >>>>steal your car. The problem lies in the actual key cylinder and cylinder
   >>>>case. There is a sensor that tends to read the wrong input from time to
   >>>>time enabling the theft mode if the key cylinder gets worn. I've emailed
   >>>>you at the address you provided the description and operation of the
   >>>>system so that you can understand how it works. You cannot just install
   >>>>a resistor like the old days, it just does not work that way. It is not
   >>>>even close to the old "chip in key system." So much is involved that I
   >>>>don't see a way that it can be bypassed safely. You will have to buy the
   >>>>ignition lock cylinder, 10 tumblers, 10 tumbler springs, and1 tumber
   >>>>retainer. You then have to know how to read your key to determine the
   >>>>key code so that you know what tumblers to order. Then you arrange the
   >>>>tumblers, and springs into the ignition lock cylinder in the correct
   >>>>order. Install the tumbler springs, then the spring retainer. Place the
   >>>>cylinder into the cylinder case. Remove your radio from your car. This
   >>>>gives you access to the side of the ignition switch. Access the release
   >>>>button on the old cylinder with the key in the run position. Pull and
   >>>>remove the case assy. Install your newly built case into the switch.
   >>>>Then perform the program proceedure.
   >>>>
   >>>>If you want to save the money and buy just the part and try to tackle
   >>>>this yourself, I will help you the best I can. Just contact me through
   >>>>email or here. You may save close to $80 doing it yourself. Truth be
   >>>>told, its worth the money just to let the dealership do the work. I can
   >>>>get it done in under 30 mins including 10 mins to program the new
   >>>>passlock sensor. Reading the key is the hardest part. Good luck and let
   >>>>me know what you decide to do. Hope I was of some help.
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>>--
   >>>>Jason E.
   >>>>ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>>>GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>>"Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>>>news:10o37r8fm8pu70@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>
   >>>>>OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at GM
   >>>>>for designing the system that apparently is a common problem. There
   >>>>>has to be a way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm sorry if
   >>>>>I offended you. Please help if you can.
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>>Scott
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>>"Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
   >>>>>news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
   >>>>>
   >>>>>>I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>--
   >>>>>>Jason E.
   >>>>>>ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>>>>>GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>"Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>>>>>news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the
   >>>>>>>answers to
   >>>>>>>these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has a
   >>>>>>>2000
   >>>>>>>Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her
   >>>>>>>from
   >>>>>>>starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can
   >>>>>>>find are
   >>>>>>>the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking to
   >>>>>>>the
   >>>>>>>dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>So, my questions are;
   >>>>>>>1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do
   >>>>>>>that to
   >>>>>>>sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
   >>>>>>>2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I
   >>>>>>>can live
   >>>>>>>with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car
   >>>>>>>stolen than
   >>>>>>>my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring
   >>>>>>>diagrams
   >>>>>>>from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the
   >>>>>>>switch to
   >>>>>>>run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
   >>>>>>>black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance
   >>>>>>>never changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84 meg.
   >>>>>>>I was hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required when
   >>>>>>>in run.
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system
   >>>>>>>without spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from
   >>>>>>>what I understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel
   >>>>>>>system. Does that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do
   >>>>>>>it some other way? Please help with any information you have.
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't
   >>>>>>>think the dealer deserves!)
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>Scott
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>
   >>>
  >>
 >
 >
I put put ia remote starter in my 99 Malibu - I did something wrong! now
the anti-theft light stays on all the time but it starts fine. I had the
similar problems to what you have - I think that one of the wires on
the whole remote thing was not connected properly - I took the whole
thing off and re installed ensuring all connections were good. I works
like a charm -. The new anti-theft relays don't require a resistance
setting - they are automatic. I just live with anti theft light staying
on all the time!<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Scott, check your mail, I've sent the schematic. Maybe if you could send me
a picture of the aftermarket system bypass, I could help you figure it out.


--
Jason E.
ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
GM Master Certified Technician


"Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
news:10o9v5u1g5j74d5@corp.supernews.com...
 > Jay, the only schematics I've been able to get are the ones from the
 > passlock bypass makers for remote starters or from the Haynes auto manual
 > that I bought but Haynes doesn't have anything in it regarding this
 > system. So if you could, I would greatly appreciate the schematics if you
 > could send them.
 > Thanks again,
 >
 > Scott
 >
 > "Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
 > news:fH1hd.12574$233.7378@okepread05...
  >> Scott I resent the info to the new email address. I trust you already
  >> have a schematic, seems your familliar with the circuits. If you need
  >> that also let me know. I wish I could tell you that it wouldn't happen
  >> again, but the truth is that one day it probably will when the new
  >> cylinder wears out. I know thats not what you wanted to hear but its the
  >> sad truth. Wish you luck. If I can help anymore let me know. And BTW no
  >> hard feelings, I understand the way you feel. I'm just glad I can help
  >> somewhat.
  >>
  >> --
  >> Jason E.
  >> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
  >> GM Master Certified Technician
  >>
  >>
  >> "Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
  >> news:10o8hm863jsp49e@corp.supernews.com...
   >>> Thank you for that information. I will be scheduling it to be fixed at
   >>> the dealer early next week. I appreciate you sending the information
   >>> but the email I list isn't valid because of spam. I would be interested
   >>> in reading what you have though, so if you wouldn't mind could you
   >>> please sent it to sdelagrange at charter dot net. Hopefully once it's
   >>> fixed we won't have to worry about it again. It'll just take time for
   >>> my daughter to get her confidence back with it.
   >>>
   >>> From what I can gather from the various passlock bypass kits for remote
   >>> starters, it looks like the resistance needs to be across the black and
   >>> yellow wire only in run which I could accomplish with a simple relay but
   >>> the problem is I couldn't get a reading.
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> Thank you again for your help. (and sorry for the mis-directed
   >>> frustration)
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> Scott
   >>>
   >>>
   >>> "Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
   >>> news:7ADgd.11235$233.2973@okepread05...
   >>>> No problem. It kind of gets my goat when I read message after message
   >>>> about people who goto dealers and think they are getting ripped off
   >>>> most the time. I thought the same also until I went to work for one.
   >>>> The dealership is the absolute best place to get your car worked on
   >>>> but, I agree it is pricey. However, its not the technician that sets
   >>>> the price of labor. Its the dealership itself. I only get less then 20%
   >>>> of each labor hour I spend working on customer cars. Overhead for my
   >>>> dealership is over 300,000 a month. This includes the expensive
   >>>> training program and tools to do the job right. Parts markup is over
   >>>> 100% on most items {which I do not agree with}. There are good
   >>>> technicians and bad ones at dealerships. Good ones might spend the time
   >>>> to give free help on newgroups. Something I get paid for everyday, I do
   >>>> it for free just to help people. So, yes it does bother me when read
   >>>> people that think they are getting messed over everytime they set foot
   >>>> in a dealership. My advice is to do your homework and find one good
   >>>> particular technician at your dealership and request that he work on
   >>>> your car evertime you bring it in. I have a very large customer base
   >>>> that asks for me and will even wait a few days until I can get to their
   >>>> vehicle to repair it because they trust me. I don't sell things to
   >>>> customers that they dont need and I don't overcharge for the work that
   >>>> I do. I think thats fair, don't you? I have no control over parts
   >>>> prices and the shop labor rate. I do want to make a living and get a
   >>>> paycheck every friday just like anyone else. Anyways, off my soapbox.
   >>>>
   >>>> You're correct, this is a very common problem. I fix about 1 a week.
   >>>> Its a very effective system and unfortunately, can't be bypassed as far
   >>>> as I know. Its effective in part becasue it can't be "bypassed" by a
   >>>> thief to steal your car. The problem lies in the actual key cylinder
   >>>> and cylinder case. There is a sensor that tends to read the wrong input
   >>>> from time to time enabling the theft mode if the key cylinder gets
   >>>> worn. I've emailed you at the address you provided the description and
   >>>> operation of the system so that you can understand how it works. You
   >>>> cannot just install a resistor like the old days, it just does not work
   >>>> that way. It is not even close to the old "chip in key system." So much
   >>>> is involved that I don't see a way that it can be bypassed safely. You
   >>>> will have to buy the ignition lock cylinder, 10 tumblers, 10 tumbler
   >>>> springs, and1 tumber retainer. You then have to know how to read your
   >>>> key to determine the key code so that you know what tumblers to order.
   >>>> Then you arrange the tumblers, and springs into the ignition lock
   >>>> cylinder in the correct order. Install the tumbler springs, then the
   >>>> spring retainer. Place the cylinder into the cylinder case. Remove your
   >>>> radio from your car. This gives you access to the side of the ignition
   >>>> switch. Access the release button on the old cylinder with the key in
   >>>> the run position. Pull and remove the case assy. Install your newly
   >>>> built case into the switch. Then perform the program proceedure.
   >>>>
   >>>> If you want to save the money and buy just the part and try to tackle
   >>>> this yourself, I will help you the best I can. Just contact me through
   >>>> email or here. You may save close to $80 doing it yourself. Truth be
   >>>> told, its worth the money just to let the dealership do the work. I can
   >>>> get it done in under 30 mins including 10 mins to program the new
   >>>> passlock sensor. Reading the key is the hardest part. Good luck and let
   >>>> me know what you decide to do. Hope I was of some help.
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> --
   >>>> Jason E.
   >>>> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>>> GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>> "Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>>> news:10o37r8fm8pu70@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>> OK, maybe blaming the dealer was bad on my part. I guess I'm mad at
   >>>>> GM for designing the system that apparently is a common problem.
   >>>>> There has to be a way to bypass the "theft" system on this car. I'm
   >>>>> sorry if I offended you. Please help if you can.
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>> Scott
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>> "Jay" <JAY4SPEED RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
   >>>>> news:9Pggd.10620$233.6789@okepread05...
   >>>>>>I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>> --
   >>>>>> Jason E.
   >>>>>> ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
   >>>>>> GM Master Certified Technician
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>> "Scott" <nunya RemoveThis @binis.com> wrote in message
   >>>>>> news:10o2vfd5evukl19@corp.supernews.com...
   >>>>>>>I know this has been discussed many times but I haven't found the
   >>>>>>>answers to
   >>>>>>> these questions and was hoping someone could help. My daughter has
   >>>>>>> a 2000
   >>>>>>> Malibu and occasionally the theft system kicks in and prevents her
   >>>>>>> from
   >>>>>>> starting it. I've check on bypassing it but the only thing I can
   >>>>>>> find are
   >>>>>>> the modules you can install if you have a remote starter. Talking
   >>>>>>> to the
   >>>>>>> dealer, they want a few hundred dollars to replace the key switch.
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>> So, my questions are;
   >>>>>>> 1) Can I replace the ignition switch or does the dealer have to do
   >>>>>>> that to
   >>>>>>> sync it's resistance with the theft system module?
   >>>>>>> 2) It is possible to just bypass the darn theft system entirely? I
   >>>>>>> can live
   >>>>>>> with out the "protection" this provides. I'd rather have the car
   >>>>>>> stolen than
   >>>>>>> my young daughter stranded someplace. Looking at several wiring
   >>>>>>> diagrams
   >>>>>>> from different remote starter kits, it looks like if I turn the
   >>>>>>> switch to
   >>>>>>> run the resistance is across the black and yellow wire (of the
   >>>>>>> black/white/yellow group) but checking it with a VOM the resistance
   >>>>>>> never changes if in off or acc or run or start, it's always 2.84
   >>>>>>> meg. I was hoping to use a relay and apply a resistor where required
   >>>>>>> when in run.
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>> Please, somebody out there has to know how to disable this system
   >>>>>>> without spending several hundred dollars at the dealer. Also, from
   >>>>>>> what I understand, this system works by just shutting off the fuel
   >>>>>>> system. Does that mean it just shuts off the fuel pump or does it do
   >>>>>>> it some other way? Please help with any information you have.
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>> Thanks a million (or at least a few hundred dollars that I don't
   >>>>>>> think the dealer deserves!)
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>> Scott
   >>>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>>
   >>>>
   >>>>
   >>>
   >>>
  >>
  >>
 >
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 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

This ugly problem happened to me last March. Since I had a fuel pump go out two months previously, I thought it was mechanically related. The theft system light came on and blinked, and the car wouldn't start. Cranking the starter ran the battery down. The mechanic said that certain codes were missing from the computer and he had a guy from a Chevy dealer download the codes into my car. It worked, the car started every day for about 3 weeks before it happened again. I was pissed, but I gave the owners manual a try. It listed the problem specifically in there, and said to turn the key to ON for 10 minutes, the blinking light would go out, and the car would start. No problem, it worked, but having the lights on from the key turned ran down the battery some more. I have since learned that turning the key to ACC for 10 minutes will accomplish the same thing (it runs down the battery a whole lot less). Googling 2002 Chevy Malibu theft system problem got me to this forum. I didn't know that this was a very common problem. It seems that the most common fix is to replace the key lock cylinder, and that is about a $ 500 job. One post said to spray this into the key hole, electric contact cleaner you can buy at Radio Shack for 9 bucks. I tried this, it helped a little, but the theft system still comes on every 4 days. If this truly is a defective part by Chevy(and plenty of others have agreed that this is), then Chevy should offer a way to disable the theft lock system at no charge to the owner. I have already replaced a battery and paid for several hours of labor plus towing for this (not to mention the time lost for waiting 10 minutes or more every time it happens). I will contact the Chevy customer service office (they probably won't care). The address for anyone's information is: Chevrolet Motor Division Customer Assistance Center, P.O. Box 33170, Detroit, MI 48232-5170. ----- I have even read on some posts that certain dealers don't even know how to fix this problem. -----Malcolm M.
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Jay47 you are just part of the GM system who makes money repairing the poorly designed GM vehicles. The dealers do their best but GM does not stand behind their vehicles. I own a POS 99 malibu but any GM dealership will never get another penny of my money. I will have any work done by a independent garage.
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

I have a 2001 Malibu and I have had this problem twice. My mechanic told me to open my doors with the key in order to reset the system, it has worked before but this last time it has not. I agree, this seems to be a big problem for Chevy owners, I have called the Chevy customer assistance line and complained but nothing has been done, except me paying over $500 to have the passlock sensor replaceded only to be told it could still possible happen again. I know now not to buy Chevy anymore. [/list]
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

I have had problems with my 97 buick skylark. all of a sudden it quit starting. It sat at the mechanics for a month because my mechanic told me that i needed a new steering column......he did not know what he was talking about! He told me that the passlock one system on my car was messed up, but my car only has 50,000 miles on it and still smells new on the inside. I was really upset! I got determined that I was going to fix it, so I did a bunch of research on the net and found no help what-so-ever. So I took the ignition cylinder out of the steering column, cleaned it with alcohol and q-tips. Then I stretched the springs out that go in the cylinder cover and tightened the spring casing that reads the key on the cylinder itself. I did this by slightly bending the edges of the copper cover (becareful not to lose any springs! and remember where they go!). I then pushed it back down gently with a screw-driver and made it tight. I cranked my car and when it actually started-----it scared me to death because I was only guessing that this would fix it. So if you have any questions (by the way----my car runs like new again!) please feel free to e-mail me at misstjoe.RemoveThis@cameron.net!
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

Jay, I also have the same problem with my 1998 Malibu. It won't start because of the Pass lock system. I have had the ignition switch replaced and reprogramed the system. Is this what has to be done to fix the problem? It still does the same thing.I also have a problem with it idleing. They have replaced modules and what ever they use in place of spark plug wires. It works for a while then it does the same thing.

Jay wrote:

I would help but I work for a dealer.......I don't deserve your money.

 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems 

I am bitterly laughing as I read this forum thread. My 2001 Malibu is in the shop as we speak. We have had it in the shop for the PASSlock problem 4 times in the last 2 years, 3 in the last year alone. Each time we have had the part replaced. Even the Chevy Dealership employees admitted to me that they would never buy a Chevy. Scary.

GM is well aware of this problem, but because it is not considered life threatening, they will not stop installing the faulty system or issue a recall. I am not going to get into an accident because of this problem, but I, or my children, could easily come to harm if we were stuck somehwre unsafe and without a telephone. I think Chevy should start handing out free cellphones for every PASSlock enabled vehicle they sell.

I highly suggest to anyone that is still under their original warranty to contact the BBB and Chevy via mail with all your information. We got an extended warranty for free. The BBB really helped us out.

We purchased the car in Oct of 2001 brand new and in less than 4 yrs, this car has been in the shop no less than 12 times for GM defects. Thank goodness, all have been covered by warranty.

Also, check your states lemon law. You might qualify.

Good Luck! I can tell you that I will never purchase an American made car again.

GM, you should be ashamed of yourselves.
 >> Stay informed about: theft system problems