Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on?

if the instruction for installation says to USE LOCKTITE, then donnot
use ANTI SEIZE!






jake292 wrote:

> This summer I've done more work on cars myself than ever before. I
> started to think that I want have this truck long enough to need to
> repeat some of the repairs I've done. With that in mind, I've started
> to use liberal amounts of Anti-Seize compound when I throw everything
> back together.
>
> Hence, the reason for the post. Are there any parts I should avoid
> using the Anti-Seize on? Are there some parts that would have their
> lifespan or effectiveness hindered?
>
> Thanks.
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

Shep wrote:
> head bolts, wheel studs, main and rod bolts, most hardware that has specific
> torque values around the engine and suspension, as this alters the torque
> specs.

I dis-agree on lug nuts. Which is probably the most over-torqued item
on most vehicals on or off the road. I apply anti-seize to the lug studs
on my personal vehicals that I drive on the street.

Im also so Anal Retentive that I thread each lug nut down by hand. If a
lug doesn't come off "just" right, Ill pitch it and get a new one. Nor
will I let some idiot at a tire shop put wheels on my car.
Charles
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:17:59 -0400, jake292 <cbf DeleteThis @ecr.net> wrote:

>This summer I've done more work on cars myself than ever before. I
>started to think that I want have this truck long enough to need to
>repeat some of the repairs I've done. With that in mind, I've started
>to use liberal amounts of Anti-Seize compound when I throw everything
>back together.
>
>Hence, the reason for the post. Are there any parts I should avoid
>using the Anti-Seize on? Are there some parts that would have their
>lifespan or effectiveness hindered?
>
>Thanks.
Do NOT use Anti-Seize on bearing fits or any other press fit.
That nice silver color is metal powder and it takes up clearance.
Metal powder is also not something you would want to wind up in
bearings or gears as it accelerates wear.

I don't use any lubricant at all on wheel nuts since I found that they
wouldn't stay tight unless they were dry. In the old days removing
the hubcaps guaranteed you would break studs. These days the nuts are
not drilled through and they don't rust on like they used to even here
where we have enough salt on the road in the winter to harden your
arteries.
--
Regards
Gordie
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

sorry, but every mechanic I've talked to, and every repair manual that
mentions lug studs, say not to use antiseize on them.

It makes sense to me what you're doing-- but then so does the issue
about proper torque values. :shrug: Somebody that knows more than me
want to chime in? I wouldn't mind not having to fight rusted fasteners
every time I take the wheels off my 4X4,. either....
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

Shep wrote:
> Charles, the SAE torque specs for for wheel studs assume clean dry threads,
> that is only reason I say no antiseize. Here in upstate NY in my shop we run
> into so may rusted studs it is a problem. So realistically the antiseize is
> desirable, but technically wrong.

Thing rust nearly as bad here in Ohio. It not just from road salt
either. Vehicles left sitting for a few months will develop rust in odd
places. Galvanic corrosion, Rust & seized up things cost me way to much
extra time.
Charles
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

"jake292" <cbf DeleteThis @ecr.net> wrote in message
news:ufednY76ptnhC7HeRVn-sw@adelphia.com...
> This summer I've done more work on cars myself than ever before. I
> started to think that I want have this truck long enough to need to
> repeat some of the repairs I've done. With that in mind, I've started
> to use liberal amounts of Anti-Seize compound when I throw everything
> back together.
>
> Hence, the reason for the post. Are there any parts I should avoid
> using the Anti-Seize on? Are there some parts that would have their
> lifespan or effectiveness hindered?
>
> Thanks.

With the advent of 100 thousand mile spark plug change intervals, a lot of
people recommend using anti-seize on the plug threads. There are pro's and
con's to this, but just be sure not to get any on the insulator or the
electrodes. The particles in the anti-seize are conductive and can cause a
misfire.

Dave
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

uh, hello? This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.

People in the know have been putitng antiseize on spark plug threads
since the 60s at least-- it all has to do with having dissimilar metals
together-- the antiseize keeps them from reacting together and seizing
up.

I vividly remember putting antiseize on the threaqds of the spark plugs
in my dad's old MGB when I was 5 years old or so. Don't think it was
even an aluminum engine...
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

<burntkat RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1127173288.566730.83100@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> uh, hello?

Hi

This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.
>

Thanks for your opinion.

Dave
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

On 19 Sep 2005 16:41:28 -0700, "burntkat@gmail.com"
<burntkat.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote:

>uh, hello? This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.
>
No, but it has to do with time passing...it takes time to reach 100K,
and time is what it takes for rust to form.


>People in the know have been putitng antiseize on spark plug threads
>since the 60s at least-- it all has to do with having dissimilar metals
>together-- the antiseize keeps them from reacting together and seizing
>up.

Dissimilar metals isn't the only reason to use. Stainless Steel nuts
and bolts need it to prevent galling.


>
>I vividly remember putting antiseize on the threaqds of the spark plugs
>in my dad's old MGB when I was 5 years old or so. Don't think it was
>even an aluminum engine...
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

I use Anti-Seize on my cars, been doing it for at least 20 years. I know the
book says they should be clean and dry but I feel the important thing is
that the torque is equal. If the studs are rusty the torque won't be equal,
you know the people working in the tire shop aren't going to clean them. I
put anti-seize on them once the first time I rotate my tires, I also apply
it around the hub. I applied it 17 years ago to my 1988 Oldsmobile and have
never had to had to re-apply it.

Al
Bottoms Up Diver


<burntkat RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1127133693.639166.63010@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> sorry, but every mechanic I've talked to, and every repair manual that
> mentions lug studs, say not to use antiseize on them.
>
> It makes sense to me what you're doing-- but then so does the issue
> about proper torque values. :shrug: Somebody that knows more than me
> want to chime in? I wouldn't mind not having to fight rusted fasteners
> every time I take the wheels off my 4X4,. either....
>
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

burntkat.TakeThisOut@gmail.com wrote:
> uh, hello? This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.
>
> People in the know have been putitng antiseize on spark plug threads
> since the 60s at least-- it all has to do with having dissimilar metals
> together-- the antiseize keeps them from reacting together and seizing
> up.
>
> I vividly remember putting antiseize on the threaqds of the spark plugs
> in my dad's old MGB when I was 5 years old or so. Don't think it was
> even an aluminum engine...
>

You just brought back memories of a 87 Cavalier 4 door. 2.0 fuel
injected automatic. Dang number 3 spark plug siezed in the head. Left
the threaded shell, broke off just above the nut. The customer decided
to just part it out rather then paying me to fix it.
Charles
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

I know dissimilar metals aren't the only reason to use. I also know
that rust takes time to form. However, it has nothing to do, directly,
with the 100,000 mile service interval [which is complete horseshit,
BTW]

Correlation does not equal Causation.
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on? 

<burntkat.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1127309613.751965.127060@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> I know dissimilar metals aren't the only reason to use. I also know
> that rust takes time to form. However, it has nothing to do, directly,
> with the 100,000 mile service interval [which is complete horseshit,
> BTW]
>
> Correlation does not equal Causation.
>

On your period this week, huh? Take a Midol and call me in the morning.

Dave
 >> Stay informed about: Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on?