fuel evaporating

Have posted on this topic b4, but need some final advice please.

My pinto engined kit car seems to lose all fuel from carb after standing for
a week or two, and needs a lot of cranking to get fuel through for
starting.Have tried non return valves and things - but to no avail.
Following advice from last postings, I have got hold of an electric pump,
and tried it "in series" with the mechanical pump (both sides tried - I.E.-
b4 mech pump and after) but mech pump cannot suck / blow through elec pump
when it is switched off. I don't want the elec pump running all the time -
just a short burst to prime the carb as in the circumstances above.

So.I am considering fitting it "in parallel" with the mech pump. Thought I
would use "T" pieces or "Y" pieces in the fuel lines, either side of mech
pump.

Does NE1 foresee any problems with such an arrangement? Also, does NE1 know
where I can get suitable "T or Y" couplings - or should I make up them
myself (have a small lathe and lots of bits of ali /brass rod /tube)

Any comments appreciated, especially helpful ones !

Tim,

Hold off fitting the electric fuel pump until you've tried the following -
it could save you money and frustration.

As far as I can figure, theres only three ways you can lose fuel from the
carb - evaporation from the residual heat of the engine, leakage from failed
gaskets in the carb or through the fuel line either through faulty joins or
flow back to the tank.

You've eliminated flow back to the tank with the non-return valve. Now check
for leaks in the fuel line (NOT with a naked flame - it's embarrassing
trying to explain it to the fire crew). Then invest in a gasket set for the
carb.

I used to own an old Humber (Rootes Group) that had an asbestos mat fitted
between the manifold and the carb. The idea was that the mat would shield
the fuel in the carb bowl from the engine heat and thus prevent the fuel
vaporising. In these enlightened times we know that asbestos is a tad
dangerous but I'm sure a shield could be made from alimunium or similar.

Electric fuel pumps are generally meant to be the sole pump and this is why
your mech one won't suck or blow thru it. It would be a waste of money to
fit an electric pump just to use for 30 seconds to fill the carb bowl before
starting the engine - but I guess it's your money.......

Good luck.


"Tim Mackey" <timmackey.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bmepn7$idf$1@titan.btinternet.com...
 > Have posted on this topic b4, but need some final advice please.
 >
 > My pinto engined kit car seems to lose all fuel from carb after standing
for
 > a week or two, and needs a lot of cranking to get fuel through for
 > starting.Have tried non return valves and things - but to no avail.
 > Following advice from last postings, I have got hold of an electric pump,
 > and tried it "in series" with the mechanical pump (both sides tried -
I.E.-
 > b4 mech pump and after) but mech pump cannot suck / blow through elec pump
 > when it is switched off. I don't want the elec pump running all the time -
 > just a short burst to prime the carb as in the circumstances above.
 >
 > So.I am considering fitting it "in parallel" with the mech pump. Thought
I
 > would use "T" pieces or "Y" pieces in the fuel lines, either side of mech
 > pump.
 >
 > Does NE1 foresee any problems with such an arrangement? Also, does NE1
know
 > where I can get suitable "T or Y" couplings - or should I make up them
 > myself (have a small lathe and lots of bits of ali /brass rod /tube)
 >
 > Any comments appreciated, especially helpful ones !
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->