Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly

Thank you for all of the information. Is the hub and bearing assembly
identical for all 4 wheels? It appears that way in the manual. If I
install it on one wheel, and the problem doesn't go away, is there any
reason I can't try the assembly on a different wheel?

Does a shop have more tools at their disposal than the back yard mechanic to
make a CORRECT diagnosis of whether my "hum" is a wheel bearing, or some
other drive component? If so, I don't mind taking my car to a shop. But,
if their diagnosis is based solely on a test drive, then I will do the work
myself.

Chris

"Wes Whitlock" wrote in message

 > Lots of questions...
 >
  > > A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
  > > integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can be
 > high
  > > (and they won't know until they get it apart).
 >
 > Rubbish! While some rotors are part of a bearing assembly (mostly light
 > trucks) this is NOT the case with the Malibu. Ignore this fourth place and
 > never buy from them again.
 >
  > > Are there different hub
  > > assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that much?
 >
 > The prices vary that much, shocking isn't it? There are different
 > manufacturers, but they all do the trick. I changed out two sets on my old
 > Cavalier (10 years apart!) and the "el cheapo" white box assembly turned
out
 > to be the very same SKF bearing found in the fancy box. Hmmmmm.
 >
  > > Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary to
 > take
  > > my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
 >
 > Very wise!
 >
  > > I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In this
  > > case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
 >
 > Unfortunately, you may be fooled again. A wise and experienced mechanic
once
 > told me that I should listen until I was sure what side the bad bearing
was
 > on. Then get a friend to listen until he was sure what side it was on.
Have
 > the car test driven by a third person and when we all agreed what side had
 > the bad bearing... pick the other side. Y'know, he was right! Sorry,
that's
 > my best advice.
 >
  > > The
  > > manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull the
 > hub
  > > off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the Hub
  > > without this tool?
 >
 > Other than the Torx driver to unbolt it, I'm not sure what tool they could
 > be talking about. Once the axle nut is off and the hub unbolted from the
 > car, it should drop off with a light tap. If it was stuck on the axle (?),
 > any old bearing puller should do the trick to pop it off. Anybody else
know
 > about this "Front Hub Spindle Remover"?
 >
  > > Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
 >
 > Yes, the hub, or "wheel bearing assembly", is the full meal deal. Bearing,
 > hub, studs all in one. On the up side, it makes repair a simple and quick
 > job. On the down side, it costs a lot more than a standard $25 bearing.
 >
  > > Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger than
  > > anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
 >
 > I think it's a 36mm, but you can't use a standard deep socket anyway. It
has
 > to be thin-wall to fit in the recessed hole - you can thank the GM
engineers
 > for that one. The good news is that they are readily available at the any
 > auto supply shop for $10 - 15. The dealer has them as well, if you have
too
 > much money in your pocket and are looking to lighten the load.
 >
  > > I am curious how much
  > > these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are working?
My
  > > rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this cause
the
  > > sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors because
 > they
  > > don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
 >
 > I'm not sure about the ABS sensors, I haven't had any trouble with mine
 > (knock on wood!). As for rotors, I bought the absolute cheapest rotors and
 > pads that I could find. I made sure all the brake components were well
 > cleaned and lubricated and then followed the manual's instructions to the
 > letter (including torque specs for the wheel lugs - a first for me!). I
 > honestly have not had brake problems since then (last March). A
coincidence?
 > Perhaps, but certainly worth a try.
 >
 > If your rotors are severely warped, it seems to me that it could indeed
have
 > an adverse effect on an ABS sensor... just a thought.
 >
 > Good luck,
 > W
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

The two front ones are the same and the two back ones are the same, but they
are not the same as each other. Technically you could install it on one side
(save the old one) and if you still hear the sound, re-install the old
(good) one on the other side. This would be a bit of work, but not
impossible.

A mechanic would do a road test, but would follow it up by putting the car
on a hoist and checking for noise and play. You could do the same with a set
of axle stands, but it does come down to the mechanic's experience and
skill. If the bearing is really bad, you would notice it right away when you
spin the wheel with the car in the air. If it's marginal, it might be
difficult. It only costs a little time and effort on your part to try to
pinpoint it yourself, give it a shot. If you're still stumped, try and find
a garage that would do an inexpensive diagnosis for you.

Good luck

"C. Bailey" wrote in message

 > Thank you for all of the information. Is the hub and bearing assembly
 > identical for all 4 wheels? It appears that way in the manual. If I
 > install it on one wheel, and the problem doesn't go away, is there any
 > reason I can't try the assembly on a different wheel?
 >
 > Does a shop have more tools at their disposal than the back yard mechanic
to
 > make a CORRECT diagnosis of whether my "hum" is a wheel bearing, or some
 > other drive component? If so, I don't mind taking my car to a shop. But,
 > if their diagnosis is based solely on a test drive, then I will do the
work
 > myself.
 >
 > Chris
 >


  > > Lots of questions...
  > >
   > > > A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
   > > > integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can be
  > > high
   > > > (and they won't know until they get it apart).
  > >
  > > Rubbish! While some rotors are part of a bearing assembly (mostly light
  > > trucks) this is NOT the case with the Malibu. Ignore this fourth place
and
  > > never buy from them again.
  > >
   > > > Are there different hub
   > > > assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that
much?
  > >
  > > The prices vary that much, shocking isn't it? There are different
  > > manufacturers, but they all do the trick. I changed out two sets on my
old
  > > Cavalier (10 years apart!) and the "el cheapo" white box assembly turned
 > out
  > > to be the very same SKF bearing found in the fancy box. Hmmmmm.
  > >
   > > > Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary
to
  > > take
   > > > my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
  > >
  > > Very wise!
  > >
   > > > I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In this
   > > > case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
  > >
  > > Unfortunately, you may be fooled again. A wise and experienced mechanic
 > once
  > > told me that I should listen until I was sure what side the bad bearing
 > was
  > > on. Then get a friend to listen until he was sure what side it was on.
 > Have
  > > the car test driven by a third person and when we all agreed what side
had
  > > the bad bearing... pick the other side. Y'know, he was right! Sorry,
 > that's
  > > my best advice.
  > >
   > > > The
   > > > manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull
the
  > > hub
   > > > off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the Hub
   > > > without this tool?
  > >
  > > Other than the Torx driver to unbolt it, I'm not sure what tool they
could
  > > be talking about. Once the axle nut is off and the hub unbolted from the
  > > car, it should drop off with a light tap. If it was stuck on the axle
(?),
  > > any old bearing puller should do the trick to pop it off. Anybody else
 > know
  > > about this "Front Hub Spindle Remover"?
  > >
   > > > Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
  > >
  > > Yes, the hub, or "wheel bearing assembly", is the full meal deal.
Bearing,
  > > hub, studs all in one. On the up side, it makes repair a simple and
quick
  > > job. On the down side, it costs a lot more than a standard $25 bearing.
  > >
   > > > Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger than
   > > > anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
  > >
  > > I think it's a 36mm, but you can't use a standard deep socket anyway. It
 > has
  > > to be thin-wall to fit in the recessed hole - you can thank the GM
 > engineers
  > > for that one. The good news is that they are readily available at the
any
  > > auto supply shop for $10 - 15. The dealer has them as well, if you have
 > too
  > > much money in your pocket and are looking to lighten the load.
  > >
   > > > I am curious how much
   > > > these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are working?
 > My
   > > > rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this cause
 > the
   > > > sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors because
  > > they
   > > > don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
  > >
  > > I'm not sure about the ABS sensors, I haven't had any trouble with mine
  > > (knock on wood!). As for rotors, I bought the absolute cheapest rotors
and
  > > pads that I could find. I made sure all the brake components were well
  > > cleaned and lubricated and then followed the manual's instructions to
the
  > > letter (including torque specs for the wheel lugs - a first for me!). I
  > > honestly have not had brake problems since then (last March). A
 > coincidence?
  > > Perhaps, but certainly worth a try.
  > >
  > > If your rotors are severely warped, it seems to me that it could indeed
 > have
  > > an adverse effect on an ABS sensor... just a thought.
  > >
  > > Good luck,
  > > W
  > >
  > >
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Thank you,

I may give this a try - hopefully it goes smoother than my last project
which was fixing the speedometer on my 91' Dynasty. Believe it or not, most
of the time the speedometer would only work with the high beams on. It
would do 0 to 60 MPH in about 1 second

Is Napa one of the cheaper places for parts? I'm in Canada.

Chris


"Wes Whitlock" wrote in message

 > The two front ones are the same and the two back ones are the same, but
they
 > are not the same as each other. Technically you could install it on one
side
 > (save the old one) and if you still hear the sound, re-install the old
 > (good) one on the other side. This would be a bit of work, but not
 > impossible.
 >
 > A mechanic would do a road test, but would follow it up by putting the car
 > on a hoist and checking for noise and play. You could do the same with a
set
 > of axle stands, but it does come down to the mechanic's experience and
 > skill. If the bearing is really bad, you would notice it right away when
you
 > spin the wheel with the car in the air. If it's marginal, it might be
 > difficult. It only costs a little time and effort on your part to try to
 > pinpoint it yourself, give it a shot. If you're still stumped, try and
find
 > a garage that would do an inexpensive diagnosis for you.
 >
 > Good luck
 >


  > > Thank you for all of the information. Is the hub and bearing assembly
  > > identical for all 4 wheels? It appears that way in the manual. If I
  > > install it on one wheel, and the problem doesn't go away, is there any
  > > reason I can't try the assembly on a different wheel?
  > >
  > > Does a shop have more tools at their disposal than the back yard
mechanic
 > to
  > > make a CORRECT diagnosis of whether my "hum" is a wheel bearing, or some
  > > other drive component? If so, I don't mind taking my car to a shop.
But,
  > > if their diagnosis is based solely on a test drive, then I will do the
 > work
  > > myself.
  > >
  > > Chris
  > >


   > > > Lots of questions...
   > > >
   > > > > A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
   > > > > integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can
be
   > > > high
   > > > > (and they won't know until they get it apart).
   > > >
   > > > Rubbish! While some rotors are part of a bearing assembly (mostly
light
   > > > trucks) this is NOT the case with the Malibu. Ignore this fourth place
 > and
   > > > never buy from them again.
   > > >
   > > > > Are there different hub
   > > > > assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that
 > much?
   > > >
   > > > The prices vary that much, shocking isn't it? There are different
   > > > manufacturers, but they all do the trick. I changed out two sets on my
 > old
   > > > Cavalier (10 years apart!) and the "el cheapo" white box assembly
turned
  > > out
   > > > to be the very same SKF bearing found in the fancy box. Hmmmmm.
   > > >
   > > > > Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary
 > to
   > > > take
   > > > > my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
   > > >
   > > > Very wise!
   > > >
   > > > > I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In
this
   > > > > case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
   > > >
   > > > Unfortunately, you may be fooled again. A wise and experienced
mechanic
  > > once
   > > > told me that I should listen until I was sure what side the bad
bearing
  > > was
   > > > on. Then get a friend to listen until he was sure what side it was on.
  > > Have
   > > > the car test driven by a third person and when we all agreed what side
 > had
   > > > the bad bearing... pick the other side. Y'know, he was right! Sorry,
  > > that's
   > > > my best advice.
   > > >
   > > > > The
   > > > > manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull
 > the
   > > > hub
   > > > > off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the
Hub
   > > > > without this tool?
   > > >
   > > > Other than the Torx driver to unbolt it, I'm not sure what tool they
 > could
   > > > be talking about. Once the axle nut is off and the hub unbolted from
the
   > > > car, it should drop off with a light tap. If it was stuck on the axle
 > (?),
   > > > any old bearing puller should do the trick to pop it off. Anybody else
  > > know
   > > > about this "Front Hub Spindle Remover"?
   > > >
   > > > > Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
   > > >
   > > > Yes, the hub, or "wheel bearing assembly", is the full meal deal.
 > Bearing,
   > > > hub, studs all in one. On the up side, it makes repair a simple and
 > quick
   > > > job. On the down side, it costs a lot more than a standard $25
bearing.
   > > >
   > > > > Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger
than
   > > > > anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
   > > >
   > > > I think it's a 36mm, but you can't use a standard deep socket anyway.
It
  > > has
   > > > to be thin-wall to fit in the recessed hole - you can thank the GM
  > > engineers
   > > > for that one. The good news is that they are readily available at the
 > any
   > > > auto supply shop for $10 - 15. The dealer has them as well, if you
have
  > > too
   > > > much money in your pocket and are looking to lighten the load.
   > > >
   > > > > I am curious how much
   > > > > these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are
working?
  > > My
   > > > > rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this
cause
  > > the
   > > > > sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors
because
   > > > they
   > > > > don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
   > > >
   > > > I'm not sure about the ABS sensors, I haven't had any trouble with
mine
   > > > (knock on wood!). As for rotors, I bought the absolute cheapest rotors
 > and
   > > > pads that I could find. I made sure all the brake components were well
   > > > cleaned and lubricated and then followed the manual's instructions to
 > the
   > > > letter (including torque specs for the wheel lugs - a first for me!).
I
   > > > honestly have not had brake problems since then (last March). A
  > > coincidence?
   > > > Perhaps, but certainly worth a try.
   > > >
   > > > If your rotors are severely warped, it seems to me that it could
indeed
  > > have
   > > > an adverse effect on an ABS sensor... just a thought.
   > > >
   > > > Good luck,
   > > > W
   > > >
   > > >
  > >
  > >
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

I'm in Canada, too - Nova Scotia. I find NAPA to be one of the more
expensive places (besides the dealer!). They're a large chain and always
seem to have the right parts in stock, but I find that the convenience of
not waiting for an order costs a few bucks more. I normally call around to a
short list of local suppliers for my parts. Different places are cheaper for
different things and I have half a dozen favourite spots that I try. The
grungiest, most run-down places often turn out to be the best.

0 to 60 in 1 second in a '91 Dynasty... wow! You should have raced her.

Let me know how you make out,
Wes


"C. Bailey" wrote in message

 > Thank you,
 >
 > I may give this a try - hopefully it goes smoother than my last project
 > which was fixing the speedometer on my 91' Dynasty. Believe it or not,
most
 > of the time the speedometer would only work with the high beams on. It
 > would do 0 to 60 MPH in about 1 second
 >
 > Is Napa one of the cheaper places for parts? I'm in Canada.
 >
 > Chris
 >
 >


  > > The two front ones are the same and the two back ones are the same, but
 > they
  > > are not the same as each other. Technically you could install it on one
 > side
  > > (save the old one) and if you still hear the sound, re-install the old
  > > (good) one on the other side. This would be a bit of work, but not
  > > impossible.
  > >
  > > A mechanic would do a road test, but would follow it up by putting the
car
  > > on a hoist and checking for noise and play. You could do the same with a
 > set
  > > of axle stands, but it does come down to the mechanic's experience and
  > > skill. If the bearing is really bad, you would notice it right away when
 > you
  > > spin the wheel with the car in the air. If it's marginal, it might be
  > > difficult. It only costs a little time and effort on your part to try to
  > > pinpoint it yourself, give it a shot. If you're still stumped, try and
 > find
  > > a garage that would do an inexpensive diagnosis for you.
  > >
  > > Good luck
  > >


   > > > Thank you for all of the information. Is the hub and bearing assembly
   > > > identical for all 4 wheels? It appears that way in the manual. If I
   > > > install it on one wheel, and the problem doesn't go away, is there any
   > > > reason I can't try the assembly on a different wheel?
   > > >
   > > > Does a shop have more tools at their disposal than the back yard
 > mechanic
  > > to
   > > > make a CORRECT diagnosis of whether my "hum" is a wheel bearing, or
some
   > > > other drive component? If so, I don't mind taking my car to a shop.
 > But,
   > > > if their diagnosis is based solely on a test drive, then I will do the
  > > work
   > > > myself.
   > > >
   > > > Chris
   > > >


   > > > > Lots of questions...
   > > > >
   > > > > > A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
   > > > > > integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices
can
 > be
   > > > > high
   > > > > > (and they won't know until they get it apart).
   > > > >
   > > > > Rubbish! While some rotors are part of a bearing assembly (mostly
 > light
   > > > > trucks) this is NOT the case with the Malibu. Ignore this fourth
place
  > > and
   > > > > never buy from them again.
   > > > >
   > > > > > Are there different hub
   > > > > > assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that
  > > much?
   > > > >
   > > > > The prices vary that much, shocking isn't it? There are different
   > > > > manufacturers, but they all do the trick. I changed out two sets on
my
  > > old
   > > > > Cavalier (10 years apart!) and the "el cheapo" white box assembly
 > turned
   > > > out
   > > > > to be the very same SKF bearing found in the fancy box. Hmmmmm.
   > > > >
   > > > > > Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very
leary
  > > to
   > > > > take
   > > > > > my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
   > > > >
   > > > > Very wise!
   > > > >
   > > > > > I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In
 > this
   > > > > > case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
   > > > >
   > > > > Unfortunately, you may be fooled again. A wise and experienced
 > mechanic
   > > > once
   > > > > told me that I should listen until I was sure what side the bad
 > bearing
   > > > was
   > > > > on. Then get a friend to listen until he was sure what side it was
on.
   > > > Have
   > > > > the car test driven by a third person and when we all agreed what
side
  > > had
   > > > > the bad bearing... pick the other side. Y'know, he was right! Sorry,
   > > > that's
   > > > > my best advice.
   > > > >
   > > > > > The
   > > > > > manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to
pull
  > > the
   > > > > hub
   > > > > > off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the
 > Hub
   > > > > > without this tool?
   > > > >
   > > > > Other than the Torx driver to unbolt it, I'm not sure what tool they
  > > could
   > > > > be talking about. Once the axle nut is off and the hub unbolted from
 > the
   > > > > car, it should drop off with a light tap. If it was stuck on the
axle
  > > (?),
   > > > > any old bearing puller should do the trick to pop it off. Anybody
else
   > > > know
   > > > > about this "Front Hub Spindle Remover"?
   > > > >
   > > > > > Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
   > > > >
   > > > > Yes, the hub, or "wheel bearing assembly", is the full meal deal.
  > > Bearing,
   > > > > hub, studs all in one. On the up side, it makes repair a simple and
  > > quick
   > > > > job. On the down side, it costs a lot more than a standard $25
 > bearing.
   > > > >
   > > > > > Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger
 > than
   > > > > > anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep
socket.
   > > > >
   > > > > I think it's a 36mm, but you can't use a standard deep socket
anyway.
 > It
   > > > has
   > > > > to be thin-wall to fit in the recessed hole - you can thank the GM
   > > > engineers
   > > > > for that one. The good news is that they are readily available at
the
  > > any
   > > > > auto supply shop for $10 - 15. The dealer has them as well, if you
 > have
   > > > too
   > > > > much money in your pocket and are looking to lighten the load.
   > > > >
   > > > > > I am curious how much
   > > > > > these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are
 > working?
   > > > My
   > > > > > rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this
 > cause
   > > > the
   > > > > > sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors
 > because
   > > > > they
   > > > > > don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
   > > > >
   > > > > I'm not sure about the ABS sensors, I haven't had any trouble with
 > mine
   > > > > (knock on wood!). As for rotors, I bought the absolute cheapest
rotors
  > > and
   > > > > pads that I could find. I made sure all the brake components were
well
   > > > > cleaned and lubricated and then followed the manual's instructions
to
  > > the
   > > > > letter (including torque specs for the wheel lugs - a first for
me!).
 > I
   > > > > honestly have not had brake problems since then (last March). A
   > > > coincidence?
   > > > > Perhaps, but certainly worth a try.
   > > > >
   > > > > If your rotors are severely warped, it seems to me that it could
 > indeed
   > > > have
   > > > > an adverse effect on an ABS sensor... just a thought.
   > > > >
   > > > > Good luck,
   > > > > W
   > > > >
   > > > >
   > > >
   > > >
  > >
  > >
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Chris,

We has been giving you good advice. My Malibu is also making noises that
sound very much like bearings. I haven't tackled this job on the Malibu
yet, but I just did it on my other GM car, and I'm assuming that the process
is very similar. One of the steps in the installation was to ensure
tightening of the spindle nut to the proper torque value. Failure to do
this could result in premature wear. It's very difficult to get this right
without a torque wrench. It's not a hard job - any shade-tree mechanic
could do it in their driveway.

Steve


"C. Bailey" wrote in message

 > My 1999 Malibu (V6) has a slight hum when I drive down the highway - it
 > sounds similar to the hum you get when you have agressive tread on your
 > tires. You can hear it at almost any speed above 20 or 30 MPH, but it is
 > more obvious as you speed up. I thought it was the tires because I
noticed
 > it about a week after putting on the winter tires, but when I stopped at a
 > tire dealership, they took it for a test drive and told me they thought it
 > was the wheel bearing (probably on the driver's side). Given that my
winter
 > tires have only 6000 miles on them, I am inclined to believe it is a wheel
 > bearing. a tire dealership - they test drove it, and told me they thought
 > it was a wheel bearing on the driver's side.
 >
 > I started calling around to find out what a wheel bearing would cost. The
 > GM dealership wants $501 CND for parts, Kal Tire wants $300 CND for parts,
 > and Napa wants $235 CND. A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
 > integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can be
high
 > (and they won't know until they get it apart). Are there different hub
 > assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that much?
 > Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary to
take
 > my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
 >
 > Is there any method a "do it yourselfer" can employ to ensure that the
 > problem is the hub assembly - the parts are so expensive I don't want to
be
 > wrong. Will a garage have better tools for diagnosing the problem, or is
it
 > basically a trial and error process based on an educated guess? In the
 > past, I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In
this
 > case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
 >
 > I bought the factory manuals for this car off EBay a while back. The
 > manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull the
hub
 > off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the Hub
 > without this tool? Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
 >
 > Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger than
 > anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
 >
 > My ABS light came on this summer (about 2 weeks after spending $300 to get
 > it fixed). This seems to be a common problem in this newsgroup. Is it
 > futile to try to keep the ABS working on these cars? I assume I will have
 > easy access to the ABS sensor when replacing the hub - I am curious how
much
 > these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are working? My
 > rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this cause the
 > sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors because
they
 > don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
 >
 > Thank you,
 > Chris
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Changing the wheel bearing has proven to be quite the task. I bought one
from Canadian Tire for $172 CND. They also will lend you the socket for the
axle (when you put a deposit on it). The 36 mm fits loosely, but I was able
to get it off with this tool. I removed the bolts that attach the caliper
(were they ever tight!), and I wired this to the spring. I then removed the
rotor. And then I had a bit of a surprise. There are no torx head bolts
looking at me! The hub assembly is held in place by three, hex head bolts
that you must get from the back side. Of course, the CV boot is in the way,
and you can't get a socket or wrench on these bolts squarely. Thus, it
appears to me that the whole thing has to come apart. I had no trouble
removing the two bolts that attach the strut. I had a little difficulty
removing the bolt that attaches the tie-rod. The last piece of the puzzle
is to remove the nut on the ball and knuckles joint immediately below the
strut. The cotter pin and nut are removed, however, I am unable to separate
the ball and knuckle joint. I am told there is a tool for this. Is there a
do-it-yourself way of separating this knuckle? There's almost no way to get
a swing at it, and it is on the suspension arm, so even if I could hit it
from the top, it is sitting on an arm that isn't solid. Am I going about
this the hard way? Any thoughts?

Chris


"Steve Raft" wrote in message

 > Chris,
 >
 > We has been giving you good advice. My Malibu is also making noises that
 > sound very much like bearings. I haven't tackled this job on the Malibu
 > yet, but I just did it on my other GM car, and I'm assuming that the
process
 > is very similar. One of the steps in the installation was to ensure
 > tightening of the spindle nut to the proper torque value. Failure to do
 > this could result in premature wear. It's very difficult to get this
right
 > without a torque wrench. It's not a hard job - any shade-tree mechanic
 > could do it in their driveway.
 >
 > Steve
 >
 >


  > > My 1999 Malibu (V6) has a slight hum when I drive down the highway - it
  > > sounds similar to the hum you get when you have agressive tread on your
  > > tires. You can hear it at almost any speed above 20 or 30 MPH, but it
is
  > > more obvious as you speed up. I thought it was the tires because I
 > noticed
  > > it about a week after putting on the winter tires, but when I stopped at
a
  > > tire dealership, they took it for a test drive and told me they thought
it
  > > was the wheel bearing (probably on the driver's side). Given that my
 > winter
  > > tires have only 6000 miles on them, I am inclined to believe it is a
wheel
  > > bearing. a tire dealership - they test drove it, and told me they
thought
  > > it was a wheel bearing on the driver's side.
  > >
  > > I started calling around to find out what a wheel bearing would cost.
The
  > > GM dealership wants $501 CND for parts, Kal Tire wants $300 CND for
parts,
  > > and Napa wants $235 CND. A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
  > > integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can be
 > high
  > > (and they won't know until they get it apart). Are there different hub
  > > assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that much?
  > > Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary to
 > take
  > > my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
  > >
  > > Is there any method a "do it yourselfer" can employ to ensure that the
  > > problem is the hub assembly - the parts are so expensive I don't want to
 > be
  > > wrong. Will a garage have better tools for diagnosing the problem, or
is
 > it
  > > basically a trial and error process based on an educated guess? In the
  > > past, I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In
 > this
  > > case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
  > >
  > > I bought the factory manuals for this car off EBay a while back. The
  > > manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull the
 > hub
  > > off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the Hub
  > > without this tool? Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
  > >
  > > Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger than
  > > anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
  > >
  > > My ABS light came on this summer (about 2 weeks after spending $300 to
get
  > > it fixed). This seems to be a common problem in this newsgroup. Is it
  > > futile to try to keep the ABS working on these cars? I assume I will
have
  > > easy access to the ABS sensor when replacing the hub - I am curious how
 > much
  > > these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are working?
My
  > > rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this cause
the
  > > sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors because
 > they
  > > don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
  > >
  > > Thank you,
  > > Chris
  > >
  > >
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

According to the Haynes a pickle type ball joint separator will work but
should be used only as a last resort because it will destroy the boot..
I am sure Canadian Tire also rents a ball joint separator. The Alldata
manual suggests you use the correct Gm tool. However I think this is
very expensive- or you could put it back together. The haynes manual
(available on special order from CT for $20) suggest that you can remove
the three bolts from the back by using a a swivel socket and a short
extension without have having to remove the drive axle.

C. Bailey wrote:
 > Changing the wheel bearing has proven to be quite the task. I bought one
 > from Canadian Tire for $172 CND. They also will lend you the socket for the
 > axle (when you put a deposit on it). The 36 mm fits loosely, but I was able
 > to get it off with this tool. I removed the bolts that attach the caliper
 > (were they ever tight!), and I wired this to the spring. I then removed the
 > rotor. And then I had a bit of a surprise. There are no torx head bolts
 > looking at me! The hub assembly is held in place by three, hex head bolts
 > that you must get from the back side. Of course, the CV boot is in the way,
 > and you can't get a socket or wrench on these bolts squarely. Thus, it
 > appears to me that the whole thing has to come apart. I had no trouble
 > removing the two bolts that attach the strut. I had a little difficulty
 > removing the bolt that attaches the tie-rod. The last piece of the puzzle
 > is to remove the nut on the ball and knuckles joint immediately below the
 > strut. The cotter pin and nut are removed, however, I am unable to separate
 > the ball and knuckle joint. I am told there is a tool for this. Is there a
 > do-it-yourself way of separating this knuckle? There's almost no way to get
 > a swing at it, and it is on the suspension arm, so even if I could hit it
 > from the top, it is sitting on an arm that isn't solid. Am I going about
 > this the hard way? Any thoughts?
 >
 > Chris
 >
 >


 >
  >>Chris,
  >>
  >>We has been giving you good advice. My Malibu is also making noises that
  >>sound very much like bearings. I haven't tackled this job on the Malibu
  >>yet, but I just did it on my other GM car, and I'm assuming that the
 >
 > process
 >
  >>is very similar. One of the steps in the installation was to ensure
  >>tightening of the spindle nut to the proper torque value. Failure to do
  >>this could result in premature wear. It's very difficult to get this
 >
 > right
 >
  >>without a torque wrench. It's not a hard job - any shade-tree mechanic
  >>could do it in their driveway.
  >>
  >>Steve
  >>
  >>


  >>
   >>>My 1999 Malibu (V6) has a slight hum when I drive down the highway - it
   >>>sounds similar to the hum you get when you have agressive tread on your
   >>>tires. You can hear it at almost any speed above 20 or 30 MPH, but it
 >
 > is
 >
   >>>more obvious as you speed up. I thought it was the tires because I
  >>
  >>noticed
  >>
   >>>it about a week after putting on the winter tires, but when I stopped at
 >
 > a
 >
   >>>tire dealership, they took it for a test drive and told me they thought
 >
 > it
 >
   >>>was the wheel bearing (probably on the driver's side). Given that my
  >>
  >>winter
  >>
   >>>tires have only 6000 miles on them, I am inclined to believe it is a
 >
 > wheel
 >
   >>>bearing. a tire dealership - they test drove it, and told me they
 >
 > thought
 >
   >>>it was a wheel bearing on the driver's side.
   >>>
   >>>I started calling around to find out what a wheel bearing would cost.
 >
 > The
 >
   >>>GM dealership wants $501 CND for parts, Kal Tire wants $300 CND for
 >
 > parts,
 >
   >>>and Napa wants $235 CND. A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
   >>>integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can be
  >>
  >>high
  >>
   >>>(and they won't know until they get it apart). Are there different hub
   >>>assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that much?
   >>>Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary to
  >>
  >>take
  >>
   >>>my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
   >>>
   >>>Is there any method a "do it yourselfer" can employ to ensure that the
   >>>problem is the hub assembly - the parts are so expensive I don't want to
  >>
  >>be
  >>
   >>>wrong. Will a garage have better tools for diagnosing the problem, or
 >
 > is
 >
  >>it
  >>
   >>>basically a trial and error process based on an educated guess? In the
   >>>past, I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In
  >>
  >>this
  >>
   >>>case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
   >>>
   >>>I bought the factory manuals for this car off EBay a while back. The
   >>>manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull the
  >>
  >>hub
  >>
   >>>off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the Hub
   >>>without this tool? Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in place?
   >>>
   >>>Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger than
   >>>anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
   >>>
   >>>My ABS light came on this summer (about 2 weeks after spending $300 to
 >
 > get
 >
   >>>it fixed). This seems to be a common problem in this newsgroup. Is it
   >>>futile to try to keep the ABS working on these cars? I assume I will
 >
 > have
 >
   >>>easy access to the ABS sensor when replacing the hub - I am curious how
  >>
  >>much
  >>
   >>>these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are working?
 >
 > My
 >
   >>>rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this cause
 >
 > the
 >
   >>>sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors because
  >>
  >>they
  >>
   >>>don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
   >>>
   >>>Thank you,
   >>>Chris
   >>>
   >>>
  >>
  >>
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

I have a bit more information for anyone that wants to try replacing the hub
assembly on a 99 Malibu.

I managed to separate the knuckle joint (the primary pivot for steering), by
using a gooseneck to pry the joint apart, and by hitting it with a hammer
(on the side) at the same time. The hammer was primarily for vibration
effect - it didn't take much of a "rap" to make it part. I also put some
penetrating oil on the joint several hours prior, and I believe this
helped - the joint was fully penetrated when I managed to pry it apart.

Once this was apart, I used a spindle puller (it's part of the loaner tools
you can get at Canadian Tire) to pull the hub off the axle. It didn't take
too much effort to pull it apart with the spindle puller. But I suspect it
may have been a little troublesome without it.

Then I was finally able to remove the hub assembly. I called the bolts "hex
head bolts." This was the incorrect term. They are a standard bolt head.

I was going to put it all together tonight, but the nut from the tie-rod was
a nylock nut, and I want to replace it with a new nut before assembly.

Thank you to the group for all of the help. Hopefully at the end of this
process I will have fixed the hum. If not, I will replace the opposite
wheel bearing.

Chris
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Thank you for the advice. I didn't try a swivel socket, but I have trouble
believing it would work. I couldn't get the 1/2" drive socket to sit square
with or without the extension on it (maybe a 3/8" socket would be
better???). However, it is torqued to 70 ft-lbs and corroded in place.
Once I had this out on the bench, I had the 15" breaker bar on it, and it
wasn't easy to break these bolts free.

Chris


"Klinger" wrote in message

 > According to the Haynes a pickle type ball joint separator will work but
 > should be used only as a last resort because it will destroy the boot..
 > I am sure Canadian Tire also rents a ball joint separator. The Alldata
 > manual suggests you use the correct Gm tool. However I think this is
 > very expensive- or you could put it back together. The haynes manual
 > (available on special order from CT for $20) suggest that you can remove
 > the three bolts from the back by using a a swivel socket and a short
 > extension without have having to remove the drive axle.
 >
 > C. Bailey wrote:
  > > Changing the wheel bearing has proven to be quite the task. I bought
one
  > > from Canadian Tire for $172 CND. They also will lend you the socket for
the
  > > axle (when you put a deposit on it). The 36 mm fits loosely, but I was
able
  > > to get it off with this tool. I removed the bolts that attach the
caliper
  > > (were they ever tight!), and I wired this to the spring. I then removed
the
  > > rotor. And then I had a bit of a surprise. There are no torx head
bolts
  > > looking at me! The hub assembly is held in place by three, hex head
bolts
  > > that you must get from the back side. Of course, the CV boot is in the
way,
  > > and you can't get a socket or wrench on these bolts squarely. Thus, it
  > > appears to me that the whole thing has to come apart. I had no trouble
  > > removing the two bolts that attach the strut. I had a little difficulty
  > > removing the bolt that attaches the tie-rod. The last piece of the
puzzle
  > > is to remove the nut on the ball and knuckles joint immediately below
the
  > > strut. The cotter pin and nut are removed, however, I am unable to
separate
  > > the ball and knuckle joint. I am told there is a tool for this. Is
there a
  > > do-it-yourself way of separating this knuckle? There's almost no way to
get
  > > a swing at it, and it is on the suspension arm, so even if I could hit
it
  > > from the top, it is sitting on an arm that isn't solid. Am I going
about
  > > this the hard way? Any thoughts?
  > >
  > > Chris
  > >
  > >


  > >
   > >>Chris,
   > >>
   > >>We has been giving you good advice. My Malibu is also making noises
that
   > >>sound very much like bearings. I haven't tackled this job on the Malibu
   > >>yet, but I just did it on my other GM car, and I'm assuming that the
  > >
  > > process
  > >
   > >>is very similar. One of the steps in the installation was to ensure
   > >>tightening of the spindle nut to the proper torque value. Failure to do
   > >>this could result in premature wear. It's very difficult to get this
  > >
  > > right
  > >
   > >>without a torque wrench. It's not a hard job - any shade-tree mechanic
   > >>could do it in their driveway.
   > >>
   > >>Steve
   > >>
   > >>


   > >>
   > >>>My 1999 Malibu (V6) has a slight hum when I drive down the highway - it
   > >>>sounds similar to the hum you get when you have agressive tread on your
   > >>>tires. You can hear it at almost any speed above 20 or 30 MPH, but it
  > >
  > > is
  > >
   > >>>more obvious as you speed up. I thought it was the tires because I
   > >>
   > >>noticed
   > >>
   > >>>it about a week after putting on the winter tires, but when I stopped
at
  > >
  > > a
  > >
   > >>>tire dealership, they took it for a test drive and told me they thought
  > >
  > > it
  > >
   > >>>was the wheel bearing (probably on the driver's side). Given that my
   > >>
   > >>winter
   > >>
   > >>>tires have only 6000 miles on them, I am inclined to believe it is a
  > >
  > > wheel
  > >
   > >>>bearing. a tire dealership - they test drove it, and told me they
  > >
  > > thought
  > >
   > >>>it was a wheel bearing on the driver's side.
   > >>>
   > >>>I started calling around to find out what a wheel bearing would cost.
  > >
  > > The
  > >
   > >>>GM dealership wants $501 CND for parts, Kal Tire wants $300 CND for
  > >
  > > parts,
  > >
   > >>>and Napa wants $235 CND. A fourth place told me that the rotors can be
   > >>>integral to some of the hub assemblies, and consequently prices can be
   > >>
   > >>high
   > >>
   > >>>(and they won't know until they get it apart). Are there different hub
   > >>>assemblies available for this car, or do the prices just vary that
much?
   > >>>Given the spectrum of the prices I have been quoted, I am very leary to
   > >>
   > >>take
   > >>
   > >>>my car to anyone - I'd rather do it myself.
   > >>>
   > >>>Is there any method a "do it yourselfer" can employ to ensure that the
   > >>>problem is the hub assembly - the parts are so expensive I don't want
to
   > >>
   > >>be
   > >>
   > >>>wrong. Will a garage have better tools for diagnosing the problem, or
  > >
  > > is
  > >
   > >>it
   > >>
   > >>>basically a trial and error process based on an educated guess? In the
   > >>>past, I have been fooled by where sounds appear to be coming from. In
   > >>
   > >>this
   > >>
   > >>>case, it really sounds like the front, driver's side wheel.
   > >>>
   > >>>I bought the factory manuals for this car off EBay a while back. The
   > >>>manuals indicate that you need a "Front Hub Spindle Remover" to pull
the
   > >>
   > >>hub
   > >>
   > >>>off the axle. Is there a do it yourselfer method for removing the Hub
   > >>>without this tool? Does the new hub come with the wheel studs in
place?
   > >>>
   > >>>Does anyone know the size of the drive axle nut - it looks bigger than
   > >>>anything I have in my socket kit, so I need to go buy a deep socket.
   > >>>
   > >>>My ABS light came on this summer (about 2 weeks after spending $300 to
  > >
  > > get
  > >
   > >>>it fixed). This seems to be a common problem in this newsgroup. Is it
   > >>>futile to try to keep the ABS working on these cars? I assume I will
  > >
  > > have
  > >
   > >>>easy access to the ABS sensor when replacing the hub - I am curious how
   > >>
   > >>much
   > >>
   > >>>these sensors cost, and how you test them to see if they are working?
  > >
  > > My
  > >
   > >>>rotors are warped and I get vibration when braking - could this cause
  > >
  > > the
  > >
   > >>>sensor to go bad? I have been reluctant to replace the rotors because
   > >>
   > >>they
   > >>
   > >>>don't last very long. Is one rotor better than another?
   > >>>
   > >>>Thank you,
   > >>>Chris
   > >>>
   > >>>
   > >>
   > >>
  > >
  > >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Chris-
How did the assemble go back? I am going to be doing this on my g/f's car. Her car shakes hard at higher speeds and when braking and Pep Boys who did the brakes this summer said it is now the wheel bearings. Any other tips before I hit this up next weekend?
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Chris-
How did the assemble go back? I am going to be doing this on my g/f's car. Her car shakes hard at higher speeds and when braking and Pep Boys who did the brakes this summer said it is now the wheel bearings. Any other tips before I hit this up next weekend?
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Chris--Any tips before I start this same project this weekend? I also need to find out what side needs the bearing replaced. I took my g/f car to Pep Boys and they said it is the bearings on why the car is shaking at higher speeds and braking. They did the brakes last summer. I just took apart the brakes now and they look in good shape. I just don't know what side the bearing is bad on. You have to buy the whole hub assembly to replace just the bearing?
Thanks for the help.
 >> Stay informed about: Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 

Sorry,

I don't follow this group too closely, so it's taken a while for me to spot
your question.

Here is a bit more detail regarding my experience with the wheel bearing.
When I started this process, someone told me to get 3 different people to
drive the car until they were all certain where the sound was coming from.
When all three people agreed on the same bearing, then change the oppposite
one. I don't know if they were serious (?????), but in my case they were
correct.

I changed the bearing (front driver side) where the sound was plainly coming
from. The sound did not go away. I thought about changing the opposite
bearing on the front end, but the sound was definitely not coming from that
side, and I didn't want to waste another $172 CND. So I decided I would
leave it until the sound got worse. It didn't get any worse and eventually
I convinced myself it must be the tire tread. However, last week I thought
I better get the ABS fixed (we've had freezing rain), and the ABS light has
been on for a few months. I took it to the shop this time. They indicated
the speed sensor in the front, passenger side hub was done (it is integral
to the wheel bearing assembly). They changed this wheel bearing for me (I
believe they charge 1.5 hours shop time), and now my "hum" is gone.

My 1999 Malibu appears to be setup differently than the 98's and 97's.
Their are three bolts you need to remove to separate the hub assembly from
the car (plus the axle nut and caliper mounts). The three bolts on the 99
are accessed from the back side - the strut is in the way, and I couldn't
get a socket on these bolts well enough to break them free. Consequently, I
had to disassemble the struts, tie rods, ball and knuckle joint for
steering. Knowing what I know now, I would take it to the shop. I don't
anticipate having to change that many bearings, and it was definitely time
consuming to do it the first time. It sounds much easier on the 98's and
97's. Also, without the proper tools to "break" apart the ball and knuckle
joints, you risk damaging these items. You also risk putting your front end
out of alignment, if you don't secure the strut assembly in the exact same
spot it was before you took it apart - this is about the only time in my
life, that I have found rust useful, as it gives you a very clear outline of
where things were previously tightened up.

If per chance your ABS light is on, you may wish to get this checked as
there is a possibility that a bad wheel bearing could result in damage to
the speed sensor (causing the light to come on). This may tell you which
bearing is bad. If I had thought of this to begin with, I would have
changed the right bearing.

Chris


"9double8" wrote in message

 > Chris--Any tips before I start this same project this weekend? I also need
to find out what side needs the bearing replaced. I took my g/f car to Pep
Boys and they said it is the bearings on why the car is shaking at higher
speeds and braking. They did the brakes last summer. I just took apart the
brakes now and they look in good shape. I just don't know what side the
bearing is bad on. You have to buy the whole hub assembly to replace just
the bearing?
 > Thanks for the help.
 >
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