New battery, car still dead as doornail

Cleo Frank wrote:
>[...]bought [a] battery[...] I did accidentally install it backwards
>
As has been said: high probability electronic items are smoked.

>[...]the battery is now securely connected.
>[...]no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
I start with the lights, then try lights+horn.

A voltmeter is a pretty lousy tool for troubleshooting this
(well, after an initial check of the battery).
The light-bulb probes they sell in auto parts departments
are better for this--or you can make your own with any auto bulb.

Unlike a voltmeter, because these PULL SOME CURRENT,
they are really good at sorting out a YES from a NO from a MAYBE.
You can also tell Pass/Fail out of the corner of your eye.

Clip the lead hanging out the end to a part of the body
and start probing with the point.
When you stop seeing it light up, back up.
If you can't get anything from the body to the + post of the battery,
the ground connection from the battery is open.
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

On Jun 11, 7:59 pm, JeffM <jef... RemoveThis @email.com> wrote:
> Cleo Frank wrote:
> >[...]bought [a] battery[...]  I did accidentally install it backwards
>
> As has been said: high probability electronic items are smoked.
>
> >[...]the battery is now securely connected.
> >[...]no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
> I start with the lights, then try lights+horn.
>
> A voltmeter is a pretty lousy tool for troubleshooting this
> (well, after an initial check of the battery).
> The light-bulb probes they sell in auto parts departments
> are better for this--or you can make your own with any auto bulb.
>
> Unlike a voltmeter, because these PULL SOME CURRENT,
> they are really good at sorting out a YES from a NO from a MAYBE.
> You can also tell Pass/Fail out of the corner of your eye.
>
> Clip the lead hanging out the end to a part of the body
> and start probing with the point.
> When you stop seeing it light up, back up.
> If you can't get anything from the body to the + post of the battery,
> the ground connection from the battery is open.

Start out by seeing if the headlights light, that will tell you if
there is at least some connection between the battery and the rest of
the system
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

Cleo Frank wrote:

> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>
> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
> Ideas?
>
>
LOL!!!
Yeah, how about a complete over haul on your electrical system.
new EMC, Radio, clock etc..

If you're lucking, you could of simply blown some fuses ..


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:00:05 -0400, "Cleo Frank" <cf DeleteThis @nospam.com>
wrote:

>Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
>under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
>at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
>and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
>click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>
>Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
>kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
>it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
>got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
>The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
>But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
>Ideas?


Do you have a schematic of the electrical system? Connecting the
battery backwards will blow electronic gizmos and some steering
diodes. 1990 is late enough to have an engine computer and that may
be toast.

But check fuses . . . a large fuse on the battery wiring may not look
like a fuse at all (that's another place a schematic comes in handy).
There could be a "fusible link" (piece of wire) designed to blow in
the event of a backwards connection. Sometimes physically close to
the alternator. With the battery in backwards, there's a high current
from the battery through the alternator diodes to ground (they are
forward biased in that case, with nothing but the small resistance of
wiring to limit current). Start there.
--


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 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

"Cleo Frank" <cf.RemoveThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>
> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
> Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged some
electronics.
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

"Mike" <nospam DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote in message
news:o4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...
>
> "Cleo Frank" <cf DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
>> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
>> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
>> dumpster
>> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
>> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
>> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>>
>> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
>> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
>> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
>> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
>> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
>> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>>
>> Ideas?
>
>
> Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
> replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
> some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.
>
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

"Cleo Frank" <cf.RemoveThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:onZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Mike" <nospam.RemoveThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:o4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...
>>
>> "Cleo Frank" <cf.RemoveThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
>>> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
>>> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
>>> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
>>> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
>>> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>>>
>>> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
>>> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
>>> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
>>> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
>>> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
>>> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>>>
>>> Ideas?
>>
>>
>> Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
>> replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
>> some electronics.
>
> Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
> they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
> a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!
>
> This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.
>>


Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should be
blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it from
underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse or fusible
link.
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

You need to get a mechanic who understands how to read a voltmeter and
diagnose the problem. I cannot diagnose a problem when the only facts known
are " I put the battery in backwards now it don't work".

"Cleo Frank" <cf.DeleteThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:onZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Mike" <nospam.DeleteThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:o4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...
>>
>> "Cleo Frank" <cf.DeleteThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
>>> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
>>> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
>>> dumpster
>>> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
>>> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
>>> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>>>
>>> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
>>> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
>>> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
>>> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
>>> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
>>> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>>>
>>> Ideas?
>>
>>
>> Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
>> replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
>> some electronics.
>
> Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
> they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
> a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!
>
> This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

I would check that the connections are on taught. What you are
describing is the alternator is probably not properly charging the
battery.

Sometimes when a battery in a car goes bad, it also takes the
alternator with it. There are times when the alternator goes first and
damages the battery because it overcharges the battery and then goes
shorted from overheating. Some vehicles have an external voltage
control or management module. This should also be changed along with
the alternator.

A professional mechanic always runs a test on the alternator when
replacing the battery. If the alternator is defective, you may have to
replace the battery again if the battery was damaged.

Jerry G.









On Jun 11, 7:00 pm, "Cleo Frank" <c... DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote:
> Background:   1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
> under hood.   Last night it started as usual.   I drove it to the dumpster
> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
> and cut engine.   When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
> click of a dead battery;  digital clock very dim etc.
>
> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
> kind that came in car when new).   I did accidentally install
> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
> Ideas?
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

"Cleo Frank" <cf DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote in message
news:onZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Mike" <nospam DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:o4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...
>>
>> "Cleo Frank" <cf DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
>>> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
>>> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
>>> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
>>> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
>>> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>>>
>>> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
>>> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
>>> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
>>> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
>>> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
>>> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>>>
>>> Ideas?
>>
>>
>> Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
>> replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged some
>> electronics.
>
> Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
> they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
> a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!
>
> This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.
>>


Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that the heavy
cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable from battery
positive to the starter or starter relay is loose. Check the connections on the
other end of those wires. If they're tight and clean (not corroded), then they
are likely not the problem.
That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's electronics
(computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the guy that controls almost
everything under the hood. If he's dead, then your car is essentially dead.
Haul or tow the car to a *qualified* service facility for a thorough diagnosis.
If it's the ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in good standing.
Judging from your description of events, the car might be beyond economical
repair.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

"Mike" <nospam.RemoveThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...
>
> Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
> directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
> be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
> from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
> or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?
>
>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank" <cf.DeleteThis@nospam.com>
wrote:

>
>"Mike" <nospam.DeleteThis@nospam.com> wrote in message
>news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...
>>
>> Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
>> directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
>> be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
>> from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
>> or fusible link.
>
>Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?
>>
Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
piece of wire designed to open with over current.
--


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 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail 

"default" <default DeleteThis @defaulter.net> wrote in message
news:1213229053_8443@isp.n...
>
> On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank" <cf DeleteThis @nospam.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Mike" <nospam DeleteThis @nospam.com> wrote in message
>>news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...
>>>
>>> Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
>>> directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It
>>> should
>>> be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
>>> from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
>>> or fusible link.
>>
>>Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?
>>>
> Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
> piece of wire designed to open with over current.

AOK, thanks a bunch. I'll do a little investigation on this tomorrow.
Thanks to you too, Andy and Mike, and Dave..
> --
>
>
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 >> Stay informed about: New battery, car still dead as doornail