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p3dro




Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 8



(Msg. 1) Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 8:42 pm
Post subject: A Weird Question and a Curious Question

Hey guys I've got a 1990 Integra GS, with 140Ks, and i love this car, but I'm having2 problems:

I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start, everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem. But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine, I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like i don't have anything under the hood.


2nd Problem: Does anyone know where i can get all my weather strips replaced, i have so many leaks my carpet is starting to look funky, and I've discovered MOLD under the passenger seat. I've got a major leak behind my dasboard on the passenger side, someone told me could be the A/C vents, is this true?

I'm new to these forums, So thanks in advance.

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whybcuzremove

External


Since: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 118



(Msg. 2) Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 8:48 am
Post subject: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

 > I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
 > everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll
 > put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
 > But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right
 > away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine,
 > I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
 > key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
 > i don't have anything under the hood.

Do you hear a click from the viscinity of the starter? If so, your starter
might be bad.
If not, do you have any kind of alarm installed that has the ability to
disable the car?
Are you proficient with a multimeter so we could talk you through
troubleshooting?

Remco<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->

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p3dro




Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 8



(Msg. 3) Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 6:21 pm
Post subject: [Login to view extended thread Info.]

nope no noises at all, like i said, is like i didn't even have an engine, is the weirdest thing. And no I'm not familiar with that equipment, but my brother might be, he's always messing around with his Civic, he's no expert though, so he doesn't know what the problem is.

But if you guide me on what to do, I'll get it done, and we can troubleshoot it that way, hopefuly.

Thanks again

Oh!, and no, no alarms or kill switches.
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martinzed

External


Since: Nov 20, 2004
Posts: 55



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 6:55 pm
Post subject: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe the
Integra has this too.
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay" target="_blank">http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay</a>
MZ

"p3dro" <UseLinkToEmail DeleteThis @AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_527252_8e93efce8962e1677f84fa3035494eaa@autoforumz.com...
 > Hey guys I've got a 1990 Integra GS, with 140Ks, and i love this car,
 > but I'm having2 problems:
 >
 > I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
 > everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll
 > put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
 > But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right
 > away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine,
 > I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
 > key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
 > i don't have anything under the hood.
 >
 >
 > 2nd Problem: Does anyone know where i can get all my weather strips
 > replaced, i have so many leaks my carpet is starting to look funky,
 > and I've discovered MOLD under the passenger seat. I've got a major
 > leak behind my dasboard on the passenger side, someone told me could
 > be the A/C vents, is this true?
 >
 > I'm new here, So thanks in advance.
 >
 > --
 > Posted using the <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.autoforumz.com" target="_blank">http://www.autoforumz.com</a> interface, at author's request
 > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
 > Topic URL:
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.autoforumz.com/Acura-electrical-Problem-Cosmetic-problem-ftopict112217.html</font" target="_blank">http://www.autoforumz.com/Acura-electrical-Problem-Cosmetic-problem-ft...ct11221</a>>
 > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=527252</font" target="_blank">http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=527252</font</a>><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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B.Creech

External


Since: Aug 03, 2004
Posts: 20



(Msg. 5) Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 7:55 pm
Post subject: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

The wet passenger side is most likely this. I had the same problem,
fixed it myself.

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html" target="_blank">http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html</a>

MZ wrote:

 >Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe the
 >Integra has this too.
 >http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay
 >MZ
 >
 >"p3dro" <UseLinkToEmail.DeleteThis@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
 >news:1_527252_8e93efce8962e1677f84fa3035494eaa@autoforumz.com...
 >
 >
  >>Hey guys I've got a 1990 Integra GS, with 140Ks, and i love this car,
  >>but I'm having2 problems:
  >>
  >>I start my car to go somewhere, i park, it wight or might not start,
  >>everything lights up, i wait sometime 5 minutes, sometime 2 hrs, i'll
  >>put my key in the ognition and voila!, like there was never a problem.
  >>But when I've been in a rush, if i get a jump start, it'll start right
  >>away. Keep in mind that when i won't start, everything lights up fine,
  >>I know i've got battery (or @ least i think so); and when i turn the
  >>key, nothing, and i mean nothing happens, not a single noise, is like
  >>i don't have anything under the hood.
  >>
  >>
  >>2nd Problem: Does anyone know where i can get all my weather strips
  >>replaced, i have so many leaks my carpet is starting to look funky,
  >>and I've discovered MOLD under the passenger seat. I've got a major
  >>leak behind my dasboard on the passenger side, someone told me could
  >>be the A/C vents, is this true?
  >>
  >>I'm new here, So thanks in advance.
  >>
  >>--
  >>Posted using the <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.autoforumz.com" target="_blank">http://www.autoforumz.com</a> interface, at author's request
  >>Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
  >>Topic URL:
  >>http://www.autoforumz.com/Acura-electrical-Problem-Cosmetic-problem-ftopict112217.html
  >>Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
  >>http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=527252
  >>
  >>
 >
 >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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whybcuzremove

External


Since: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 118



(Msg. 6) Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 8:12 pm
Post subject: Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Just a safety warning first: be sure to disconnect your battery wires first
before you disconnect and clean anything!! Since you are new at this, it
might be a good idea to wear safety glasses in case you accidentally short
something: The voltage being only 12 to 14V, it will not shock you, but will
cause sparks to fly that could throw bit of metal in your eyes.

I am assuming you don't have a "vehicle disable" alarm system. I am also
assuming your brother knows how to check for voltage across described
points.

Try starting the car by putting it in neutral if it is an automatic car. If
it starts, the switch inside the shifter is bad.

Make sure that all your fuses and fuseable links are ok. I don't have the
specific schematic to your year, but one fuse is usually labled "IG", "IGN"
or something similar -- make sure that one is indeed ok.

Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. It should read 12 to14 volts.
Try and start the car - the voltage may drop, but it should drop much lower
than about 10V or so. If the voltage drops more than that, try starting the
car with booster cables. If it starts, your battery can't deliver the
current to start your car - replace it and see if that fixed it.

Get a piece of wood (a short length of 2x4) and a hammer. Put one end of the
2x4 on the starter, try and start the car and whack the other end of the 2x4
with your hammer. No need to break the starter, so dont hit is hard enough
so the case bends. You just want to mechanically shock it while you start
it. If it starts, chances are that your starter is bad. Even so, check
connections to the starter, etc. Most likely you will need a new starter.

Again, being very careful not to short anything, with a multimeter set to
measure at least 12VDC, measure across the fattest connection (usually a
thick wire, sometimes the thickness of a pinky) of the starter and to the
the engine body. You should see 12V here at all times, regardless whether
the key is in or not.
If you don't see this voltage, the fat lead does not make contact somewhere
between the battery and the starter -- it should be a direct connection, so
clean both sides - battery and starter end - and check it again. Before you
disconnect anything, disconnect the battery (see safety warning above).

Turn the key to the start position and keep it there, while your brother
measures the following:
On the starter, measure the voltage from the other (less thick, most likely)
contact to the engine body. When the key is turned to start, you should see
12V here. If you see 12V here and the car does not start, you starter
(actually the relay on top of the starter) is bad and the starter may need
to be replaced.
Before you toss the starter, disconnect the battery connections first and
clean the connections going to the starter by loosening the nuts on top of
the connections and cleaning them with some fine sandpaper.

If you don't see 12V, there are several things that can go wrong, depending
whether your car is automatic or stick. Report back with your findings.

Hope this will point you in the right direction.
Remco
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whybcuzremove

External


Since: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 118



(Msg. 7) Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 8:15 pm
Post subject: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

 > Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe
the
 > Integra has this too.
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay</font" target="_blank">http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay</font</a>>

The integra does have one of those, but the car will still run the starter
even with that relay bad so that's most likely not it.
Remco<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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whybcuzremove

External


Since: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 118



(Msg. 8) Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 8:18 pm
Post subject: Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Btw, the assumption in the procedure is that you are checking the car when
it isn't starting, right? To check it while it starts will not help you.

Since it is an intermittent problem, it might be tricky and requires some
discernment:
i.e. "if the car starts, was it what I just did, or was it due to me
jiggling a wire??"

"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE RemoveThis @THISyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:uRh8e.2016$ZQ1.1235@fe11.lga...
 > Just a safety warning first: be sure to disconnect your battery wires
first
 > before you disconnect and clean anything!! Since you are new at this, it
 > might be a good idea to wear safety glasses in case you accidentally short
 > something: The voltage being only 12 to 14V, it will not shock you, but
will
 > cause sparks to fly that could throw bit of metal in your eyes.
 >
 > I am assuming you don't have a "vehicle disable" alarm system. I am also
 > assuming your brother knows how to check for voltage across described
 > points.
 >
 > Try starting the car by putting it in neutral if it is an automatic car.
If
 > it starts, the switch inside the shifter is bad.
 >
 > Make sure that all your fuses and fuseable links are ok. I don't have the
 > specific schematic to your year, but one fuse is usually labled "IG",
"IGN"
 > or something similar -- make sure that one is indeed ok.
 >
 > Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. It should read 12 to14
volts.
 > Try and start the car - the voltage may drop, but it should drop much
lower
 > than about 10V or so. If the voltage drops more than that, try starting
the
 > car with booster cables. If it starts, your battery can't deliver the
 > current to start your car - replace it and see if that fixed it.
 >
 > Get a piece of wood (a short length of 2x4) and a hammer. Put one end of
the
 > 2x4 on the starter, try and start the car and whack the other end of the
2x4
 > with your hammer. No need to break the starter, so dont hit is hard enough
 > so the case bends. You just want to mechanically shock it while you start
 > it. If it starts, chances are that your starter is bad. Even so, check
 > connections to the starter, etc. Most likely you will need a new starter.
 >
 > Again, being very careful not to short anything, with a multimeter set to
 > measure at least 12VDC, measure across the fattest connection (usually a
 > thick wire, sometimes the thickness of a pinky) of the starter and to the
 > the engine body. You should see 12V here at all times, regardless whether
 > the key is in or not.
 > If you don't see this voltage, the fat lead does not make contact
somewhere
 > between the battery and the starter -- it should be a direct connection,
so
 > clean both sides - battery and starter end - and check it again. Before
you
 > disconnect anything, disconnect the battery (see safety warning above).
 >
 > Turn the key to the start position and keep it there, while your brother
 > measures the following:
 > On the starter, measure the voltage from the other (less thick, most
likely)
 > contact to the engine body. When the key is turned to start, you should
see
 > 12V here. If you see 12V here and the car does not start, you starter
 > (actually the relay on top of the starter) is bad and the starter may need
 > to be replaced.
 > Before you toss the starter, disconnect the battery connections first and
 > clean the connections going to the starter by loosening the nuts on top of
 > the connections and cleaning them with some fine sandpaper.
 >
 > If you don't see 12V, there are several things that can go wrong,
depending
 > whether your car is automatic or stick. Report back with your findings.
 >
 > Hope this will point you in the right direction.
 > Remco
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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martinzed

External


Since: Nov 20, 2004
Posts: 55



(Msg. 9) Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 10:55 pm
Post subject: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Ahh, missed that. Could be the contacts on the solenoid - on my Toyota they
need to be replaced occasionally. Cheap and easy fix.
MZ

"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE DeleteThis @THISyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bUh8e.2021$ZQ1.1722@fe11.lga...
  >> Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe
 > the
  >> Integra has this too.
<font color=green>  >> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay</font" target="_blank">http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay</font</a>>
 >
 > The integra does have one of those, but the car will still run the starter
 > even with that relay bad so that's most likely not it.
 > Remco
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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p3dro




Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 8



(Msg. 10) Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 12:10 am
Post subject: [Login to view extended thread Info.]

WOW! the replies are overwhelming, thank you, thank you, thank you all, for all the responses, I just printed the whole thread out, and I'm going to keeo some tools in my car for when it acts up, I'll check on these.

Again thank you sooooooooo much.

And BTW i got the response from the leak i got on the front passenger side, but i still have a major pool with fish and all in the rear where the spare tire goes, and even the rear seat (passenger side) is getting wet underneath, any ideas on what it might be, and if so, what solutions; i was going to replace the weather strips all around, but i can't find them, and ACURA no longer carries them, and i don't know what to do.

Thanks again
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michaeltnull

External


Since: Oct 30, 2004
Posts: 1722



(Msg. 11) Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 7:13 am
Post subject: Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"p3dro" <UseLinkToEmail.TakeThisOut@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_528976_c36cd4da3e04d9b55197d147ba5b356c@autoforumz.com...
 > And BTW i got the response from the leak i got on the front passenger
 > side, but i still have a major pool with fish and all in the rear
 > where the spare tire goes, and even the rear seat (passenger side) is
 > getting wet underneath, any ideas on what it might be, and if so, what
 > solutions; i was going to replace the weather strips all around, but i
 > can't find them, and ACURA no longer carries them, and i don't know
 > what to do.
 >
 > Thanks again
 >
Trunk leaks are often around the taillights, and those seals should be
available (and a bunch cheaper than the lid weatherstrip!) If you drain the
pool and fry up all the fish, you can run a hose on each taillight and see
if either or both are leaking.

Mike<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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p3dro




Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 8



(Msg. 12) Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 9:48 pm
Post subject: Re: Re: an electrical Problem and a Cosmetic problem [Login to view extended thread Info.]

Hey Mike or anyone ...care for some fish, LOL!

Anyways, I'll try that, but anyone knows where i can find the weather strips anyways, thanks ...
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hasheriva




Joined: May 01, 2005
Posts: 2



(Msg. 13) Posted: Sun May 01, 2005 10:20 pm
Post subject: [Login to view extended thread Info.]

Check the tail light seals. My son's car had this problem in a heavy rain. We found that water running off the rear hatch was draining down on the tail lights. The seal between the tail lights and the hull was bad and allowing water to get into the trunk area.
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p3dro




Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 8



(Msg. 14) Posted: Mon May 02, 2005 4:17 pm
Post subject: [Login to view extended thread Info.]

Any idea where i can get parts for my integra, anywhere besides the dealer, my local dealer doesn't carry anything for what i can tell.. Thanks guys
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p3dro




Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 8



(Msg. 15) Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 9:18 am
Post subject: [Login to view extended thread Info.]

Well guys, just wanted to thank all of you for your help, i ordered the tail-light seals, and the other windshield selas, I'll install them this weekend, hopefully, that'll be it..

Also my not starting problem, seems to be the battery, i bought a new one, and so far so good, but I'll have to wait a while, cause is not a constant thing, is every once in a while, in the meantime I've got some weird noises and stuff coming from what i believe (and remember i'm the dumbest when it comes to cars) is probablyu the power steering, or maybe its pump, not sure but i've got a crazzy grinding noise, almost like a real loud boiling noise, that it starts like 3 minutes after the car has been on, or if i turn it on, and I'm in a rush, and don't have time to warm it up, the second i turn my wheels, it starts.

Thanks for all your help guys
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