V6 head gasket job

Toyota had problems with head gaskets during those years. but a 94 is
way out of the 8 yr recall time limit if any. Even the aluminum 1MZs
replacing the iron block 3VZs have seepage problems later.

Check the 3VZ-FE cylinder head removal procedure on Autozone's free
online repair guide:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/95/7f/0900823d8017...f/repai


On Apr 9, 3:28 pm, "frito" <fr....DeleteThis@ipa.net> wrote:
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
> offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
> gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
> straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a long
> time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
> hummingbird ass.
>
> --
> "frito"
> Fred Snetzer
> '01 FLHT, '97 M2²
> TOMKAT
> IBA #10549 BS #162http://users.ipa.net/~frito/http://eddiekieger.com/
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

In article <7rydneC_tu2S3mDanZ2dnUVZ_tuonZ2d DeleteThis @earthlink.com>, "frito" <frito DeleteThis @ipa.net> wrote:
>What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
>offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
>gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
>straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a long
>time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
>hummingbird ass.
>
buy the book
buy the book
buy the book.
then read the book. does it look doable?
yes, then prolly.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

On Apr 9, 3:28 pm, "frito" <fr....RemoveThis@ipa.net> wrote:
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
> offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
> gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
> straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a long
> time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
> hummingbird ass.
>
> --
> "frito"
> Fred Snetzer
> '01 FLHT, '97 M2²
> TOMKAT
> IBA #10549 BS #162http://users.ipa.net/~frito/http://eddiekieger.com/

The level of difficulty isn't bad, just make sure you use brand new
head bolts and have a good set of 6 point metric sockets. They say
you need specialty tools to hold the camshaft and get the timing
pulleys off but I have always just wrapped an old timing belt around
the pulley and held them with a strap wrench. If you plan on chasing
the head bolt holes they are 11mm (yes I said 11mm) You can get the
tap through J & L industrial supply for about $12.00, specialty places
will want and arm and a leg for one. It is important to use new head
bolts because they are torque to yield bolts and are one time use,
follow the torque procedure on the valve cover gasket and the sequence
from the manual. First you go to a specified torque on all bolts,
then go back around and turn each one 90 degrees, then go back around
and turn each one again another 90 degrees while following the
sequence. I just got two sets of Felpro bolts off of Amazon.com for
under $30 per set, you need a set for each head, the dealer wants $10
per bolt. Another suggestion is to use Felpro's dry fit valve cover
gaskets. I had trouble with several other brands leaking and it is a
pain to replace them later so spend a few extra bucks on a good pair
from either Felpro or the dealer. Another note, change the knock
sensor wire, they are under $15 from the dealer and will almost always
go bad after you have moved them during the head removal.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

On Apr 9, 3:28 pm, "frito" wrote:
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed?

Thanks for the links, I looked for an hour or so and couldn't find anything
usefull.
The owner does have a manual, I just haven't got to see it yet. That's
kinda
what I told him, "if you got a namual we can do this".

Thanks
--
"frito"
Fred Snetzer
'01 FLHT, '97 M2²
TOMKAT
IBA #10549 BS #162
http://users.ipa.net/~frito/
http://eddiekieger.com/
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

Fel-Pro is a dependable name in sealing solutions. They do rebox some
low volume gaskets from Japan for the Japanese imports. For me it's
easier and cheaper to just go all Fel-Pro and rockauto.com. Autozone's
got some good prices on Fel-Pros for the local shoppers too.

Consider picking up a thread restorer kit from Sears $59.99. It's a
pretty versatile SAE/Metric kit. A restorer (or thread chaser) doesn't
cut like a tap and weaken the thread. But it has only M11x1.5 if
that's the one for the 3VZ.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942275000P?keyword=thread+restorer



On Apr 10, 9:54 am, Handyman <sgt....DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The level of difficulty isn't bad, just make sure you use brand new
> head bolts and have a good set of 6 point metric sockets. They say
> you need specialty tools to hold the camshaft and get the timing
> pulleys off but I have always just wrapped an old timing belt around
> the pulley and held them with a strap wrench. If you plan on chasing
> the head bolt holes they are 11mm (yes I said 11mm) You can get the
> tap through J & L industrial supply for about $12.00, specialty places
> will want and arm and a leg for one. It is important to use new head
> bolts because they are torque to yield bolts and are one time use,
> follow the torque procedure on the valve cover gasket and the sequence
> from the manual. First you go to a specified torque on all bolts,
> then go back around and turn each one 90 degrees, then go back around
> and turn each one again another 90 degrees while following the
> sequence. I just got two sets of Felpro bolts off of Amazon.com for
> under $30 per set, you need a set for each head, the dealer wants $10
> per bolt. Another suggestion is to use Felpro's dry fit valve cover
> gaskets. I had trouble with several other brands leaking and it is a
> pain to replace them later so spend a few extra bucks on a good pair
> from either Felpro or the dealer. Another note, change the knock
> sensor wire, they are under $15 from the dealer and will almost always
> go bad after you have moved them during the head removal.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

The "sandwich" time is the Multi-Layer Steel I assume. Hard to tell
from the pictures, but Fel-Pro's "PT" so I didn't think it was MLS.
MLS has much better vertical and horizontal sealing capabilities than
standard one-layer gaskets.



On Apr 12, 3:55 pm, "Joseph Wind" <j... DeleteThis @gif.com.invalid> wrote:
> I've had to do it twice in two years. It's a lot of work you need to remove
> the upper plenum and manifold assembly. It's also a good time to replace
> the timing belt and water pump, while you have it open. The second time I
> used a sandwich type metal gasket. Typically the leak occurs at the back of
> the head on the drivers side closest to the firewall. I was told by a guy
> who does a lot of these jobs it's a design flaw, and not really the head
> gasket. Any slight warping of the head will cause any gasket to fail.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

The later head gaskets for the 1MZ uses the print-o-seal single layer.
Those are junk too.



On Apr 12, 3:55 pm, "Joseph Wind" <j....DeleteThis@gif.com.invalid> wrote:
> I've had to do it twice in two years. It's a lot of work you need to remove
> the upper plenum and manifold assembly. It's also a good time to replace
> the timing belt and water pump, while you have it open. The second time I
> used a sandwich type metal gasket. Typically the leak occurs at the back of
> the head on the drivers side closest to the firewall. I was told by a guy
> who does a lot of these jobs it's a design flaw, and not really the head
> gasket. Any slight warping of the head will cause any gasket to fail.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

I've had to do it twice in two years. It's a lot of work you need to remove
the upper plenum and manifold assembly. It's also a good time to replace
the timing belt and water pump, while you have it open. The second time I
used a sandwich type metal gasket. Typically the leak occurs at the back of
the head on the drivers side closest to the firewall. I was told by a guy
who does a lot of these jobs it's a design flaw, and not really the head
gasket. Any slight warping of the head will cause any gasket to fail.


"frito" <frito.RemoveThis@ipa.net> wrote in message
news:7rydneC_tu2S3mDanZ2dnUVZ_tuonZ2d@earthlink.com...
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
> offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
> gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
> straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a
> long time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
> hummingbird ass.
>
> --
> "frito"
> Fred Snetzer
> '01 FLHT, '97 M2²
> TOMKAT
> IBA #10549 BS #162
> http://users.ipa.net/~frito/
> http://eddiekieger.com/
>
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

On Apr 11, 9:30 pm, johngd....RemoveThis@hotmail.com wrote:
> Fel-Pro is a dependable name in sealing solutions. They do rebox some
> low volume gaskets from Japan for the Japanese imports. For me it's
> easier and cheaper to just go all Fel-Pro and rockauto.com. Autozone's
> got some good prices on Fel-Pros for the local shoppers too.
>
> Consider picking up a thread restorer kit from Sears $59.99. It's a
> pretty versatile SAE/Metric kit. A restorer (or thread chaser) doesn't
> cut like a tap and weaken the thread. But it has only M11x1.5 if
> that's the one for the 3VZ.
>
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942275000P?keyword=thread+...
>
> On Apr 10, 9:54 am, Handyman <sgt....RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > The level of difficulty isn't bad, just make sure you use brand new
> > head bolts and have a good set of 6 point metric sockets. They say
> > you need specialty tools to hold the camshaft and get the timing
> > pulleys off but I have always just wrapped an old timing belt around
> > the pulley and held them with a strap wrench. If you plan on chasing
> > the head bolt holes they are 11mm (yes I said 11mm) You can get the
> > tap through J & L industrial supply for about $12.00, specialty places
> > will want and arm and a leg for one. It is important to use new head
> > bolts because they are torque to yield bolts and are one time use,
> > follow the torque procedure on the valve cover gasket and the sequence
> > from the manual. First you go to a specified torque on all bolts,
> > then go back around and turn each one 90 degrees, then go back around
> > and turn each one again another 90 degrees while following the
> > sequence. I just got two sets of Felpro bolts off of Amazon.com for
> > under $30 per set, you need a set for each head, the dealer wants $10
> > per bolt. Another suggestion is to use Felpro's dry fit valve cover
> > gaskets. I had trouble with several other brands leaking and it is a
> > pain to replace them later so spend a few extra bucks on a good pair
> > from either Felpro or the dealer. Another note, change the knock
> > sensor wire, they are under $15 from the dealer and will almost always
> > go bad after you have moved them during the head removal.

The tap for chasing the head bolt threads is 11mm x 1.25mm, not the
standard 11mm x 1.5 mm. That is why you won't find one in an
automotive store hardware store.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job 

Yeah, the otherwise good value Sears kit doesn't have the 1.25mm. But
for the wimpy 1MZ aluminum engine that grew out of the 3VZ iron block
1.5mm would work.


On Apr 12, 11:10 pm, Handyman <sgt... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> The tap for chasing the head bolt threads is 11mm x 1.25mm, not the
> standard 11mm x 1.5 mm. That is why you won't find one in an
> automotive store hardware store.
 >> Stay informed about: V6 head gasket job