Hi,
I finally had time to revisit this problem last weekend.
To remove the Lock Cylinder (ie. "LC"), remove the negative battery
cable, then insert the key, turn it to the "Run" position, then use a
piece of coat hanger through the factory hole, feel for the top of the
LC pin, and gently push up on the 1/8" pin in there (jiggling the lock
a little helps I found), and then pull the LC straight out. Once
removed, be sure to note the position of the LC to the outside
chrome/black LC flange (ie. the part you actually turn with the key)
because it needs to be in this "Run" position when reinserted. If you
mess this up, look down in the bore and you can see the orientation of
the square receiving hole, which will assist is figuring out the
proper LC orientation.
Look inside the LC bore, and make sure that the little brass tab in
there is protruding about 1/8" so as to make contact with the fixed
brass strip on the LC when the LC is reinserted. My tab had a little
piece of black plastic under it that was broken and falling away, so I
just removed it. I reinserted that LC, but I still had the chiming
problem. (Btw, this would be a good time for a small dab of spray
Lithium grease down in the bottom of that bore.)
The LC also has a second brass strip that moves outward when the key
is inserted, and. it makes contact with a 1'4" "spider" shaped
steel/aluminum plate. That plate has four downward legs that hold it
into the LC, and two center upward legs to make contact with the LC
bore. In my case this plate was damaged right from the supplier. It
was bent inwards quite a bit so as to constantly make contact with the
second brass strip.
I gently pried the plate off, reformed it square more or less, bent up
the middle legs 1'16" so as to make contact with the bore when
reinserted, then bent out the outside four legs slightly so as to make
it stay put on the LC surface mount and tested my work: Now I had no
chiming at all, with or without the key.
I removed the LC again and discovered that it is necessary hold that
plate down with your thumb gently, and use something to bend that
plate in very slightly (maybe .005 to .010") at the top end, in such a
manner that when the key is inserted, the brass strip makes contact
with the edge of the spider plate, and, when the key is removed, it
does not make contact with the spider plate. There was some trial and
error on this adjustment until I got it right (even using continuity
tester).
Hope this helps someone else in the way that your replies helped me.
Thank you all again.
Regards,
Brcobrem
brcobrem RemoveThis @hotmail.com (Brcobrem) wrote in message news:<cb39e98b.0405240516.3a58c38f RemoveThis @posting.google.com>...
> Hi,
>
> Yes, I did replace the keylock cylinder only. I'll pull that lock out
> again and have a look at the assembly and recepticle.
>
> Thank you for your experience with this.
>
> Later,
> B.
>
>
>
> "Michael O" <momalle1 RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<Sv9qc.69850$iF6.5870416@attbi_s02>...
> > "Brcobrem" <brcobrem RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cb39e98b.0405170551.3c596a1f@posting.google.com...
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > A couple months ago I replaced the ignition switch in our 1993 Ford
> > > Taurus. Since then, the door chime makes it's little noise any time
> > > the drivers door is opened, with or without the key in the ignition
> > > switch.
> > >
> > > Any ideas how to keep the chimer from chiming when the key is not in
> > > the switch will be greatly appreciated by my wife who drives the
> > > Taurus regularly.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > B.
> >
> > I am assuming you replaced the igntion cylinder (where the key goes) rather
> > then the switch (at the bottom of the column). Pull the cylider back out,
> > you'll see a small brass tab that probably got bent, straighten it out.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
>> Stay informed about: Taurus door chime sounds after replacing ingition switch. .. 
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