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Next: Tire size and swapping on my Larks
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External
Since: Jun 09, 2004
Posts: 114
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(Msg. 1) Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:45 pm
Post subject: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads?
Archived from groups: alt>autos>toyota (more info?)
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I have a 2003 Corolla.
I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The
plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug and
suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger size,
or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the oil
pan replaced? |
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External
Since: Sep 13, 2004
Posts: 317
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(Msg. 2) Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 8:07 pm
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Ernie Sty" <fake_email.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JOidnZ9_y8UIpcrcRVn-sA@giganews.com...
>I have a 2003 Corolla.
>
> I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The
> plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug
> and
> suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
>
> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger
> size,
> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
> insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the
> oil
> pan replaced?
>
It's a little late for this advice, but it is not necessary to really crank
down on the drain plug. It only has to be tight enough so it doesn't work
loose or leak. I hope for your sake you're not over-tightening the oil
filter either. Tighten the oil filter as tight as you can get it with
slightly oily hands - when your hand slips on the oil filter housing, it's
probably tight enough. Since you are supposed to check for leaks when you
start the engine after an oil change, you can always tighten the drain plug
or oil filter if it leaks but you can't visually check to see if it is
over-tightened.
You did a pretty good job of naming your options.
The challenge to drilling and rethreading is finding a suitable drain plug.
Threaded inserts, A.K.A helicoils, may work and is probably the easiest
option besides replacing the oil pan.
In any case, you should remove the oil pan to work on it so you don't get
metal shavings into the oil pan.
If you decide to remove the oil pan yourself, make sure you use RTV sealant
that is marked as safe for O2 sensors and remove all of the old gasket
material. I don't know if the block is aluminum or iron but remember that
aluminum is even easier to cross-thread and strip than the boss on the drain
pan so don't crank too hard on those drain pan bolts!
Good luck!
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> |
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External
Since: Jul 20, 2003
Posts: 162
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(Msg. 3) Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 10:03 pm
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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As someone else mentioned you can get an expansion plug that is designed for
just this situation or you can put in a helicoil which is a more permanent
solution. The expansion plug "grows" as you tighten it thus sealing the
hole. The helicoil replaces your factory threads with new threads that are
sort of added on. Either is available at any auto parts store. At any rate,
you do not need to buy a new oil pan as your problem is very common. Fix it
quickly though as disaster awaits if you don't. Good luck.
jor
"Ernie Sty" <fake_email RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JOidnZ9_y8UIpcrcRVn-sA@giganews.com...
> I have a 2003 Corolla.
>
> I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The
> plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug
and
> suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
>
> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger
size,
> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
> insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the
oil
> pan replaced?
>
>
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Sep 25, 2004
Posts: 6
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 10:21 pm
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Ray O wrote:
> "Ernie Sty" <fake_email RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:JOidnZ9_y8UIpcrcRVn-sA@giganews.com...
>
>>I have a 2003 Corolla.
>>
>>I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The
>>plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug
>>and
>>suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
>>
>>What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger
>>size,
>>or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
>>insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the
>>oil
>>pan replaced?
>>
>
>
>
> It's a little late for this advice, but it is not necessary to really crank
> down on the drain plug. It only has to be tight enough so it doesn't work
> loose or leak. I hope for your sake you're not over-tightening the oil
> filter either. Tighten the oil filter as tight as you can get it with
> slightly oily hands - when your hand slips on the oil filter housing, it's
> probably tight enough. Since you are supposed to check for leaks when you
> start the engine after an oil change, you can always tighten the drain plug
> or oil filter if it leaks but you can't visually check to see if it is
> over-tightened.
>
> You did a pretty good job of naming your options.
>
> The challenge to drilling and rethreading is finding a suitable drain plug.
>
> Threaded inserts, A.K.A helicoils, may work and is probably the easiest
> option besides replacing the oil pan.
>
> In any case, you should remove the oil pan to work on it so you don't get
> metal shavings into the oil pan.
>
> If you decide to remove the oil pan yourself, make sure you use RTV sealant
> that is marked as safe for O2 sensors and remove all of the old gasket
> material. I don't know if the block is aluminum or iron but remember that
> aluminum is even easier to cross-thread and strip than the boss on the drain
> pan so don't crank too hard on those drain pan bolts!
>
> Good luck!
I would just try retapping the threads first, if that doesnt work, you
could probably buy any larger size metric bolt and retap the threads,
std is 14mm, so next size up would be 15mm, I did that when I was
swapping seatbelts on my older truck from the pass side which was hardly
used to the driver's side. Downside is a drain plug is usually magnetic,
a std bolt isn't. A third option available is what happened to a
coworker's honda, some oil change place stripped the threads and they
put in a cheezy rubber plug of some sort.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 1203
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(Msg. 5) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 7:20 am
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcom> muttered darkly in
news:33a49$415759c0$180ffc74$3931@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>
> "Ernie Sty" <fake_email RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:JOidnZ9_y8UIpcrcRVn-sA@giganews.com...
>>I have a 2003 Corolla.
>>
>> I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole.
>> The plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening
>> the plug and
>> suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
>>
>> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a
>> larger size,
>> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then
>> the insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to
>> have the oil
>> pan replaced?
>>
>
>
> It's a little late for this advice, but it is not necessary to really
> crank down on the drain plug. It only has to be tight enough so it
> doesn't work loose or leak. I hope for your sake you're not
> over-tightening the oil filter either. Tighten the oil filter as
> tight as you can get it with slightly oily hands - when your hand
> slips on the oil filter housing, it's probably tight enough. Since
> you are supposed to check for leaks when you start the engine after an
> oil change, you can always tighten the drain plug or oil filter if it
> leaks but you can't visually check to see if it is over-tightened.
>
> You did a pretty good job of naming your options.
>
> The challenge to drilling and rethreading is finding a suitable drain
> plug.
>
> Threaded inserts, A.K.A helicoils, may work and is probably the
> easiest option besides replacing the oil pan.
>
> In any case, you should remove the oil pan to work on it so you don't
> get metal shavings into the oil pan.
Removal of the pan for helicoils is not necessary. Any metal shavings will
sit on bottom of pan harmlessly.
These are the most practical options, in order of ease:
1) Expanding rubber plug. These have a rubber sleeve. When you tighten
them, the sleeve expands to fill the hole and clamp itself in place.
Available cheaply at most auto supply stores. Tend to wear out and
eventually start leaking again. $10 or less.
2) Helicoil-type insert. Best professionally installed. Essentially
permanent fix unless defective. Can be installed fairly quickly without
removing the oil pan. $50-100
3) New oil pan. Easily, far and away the most expensive. $200-400.
--
TeGGeR®
How to find anything on the Internet:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.google.com" target="_blank">www.google.com</a>
or in Usenet Groups:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.groups.google.com" target="_blank">www.groups.google.com</a>
Google is your friend. Learn how to use it.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Jun 09, 2004
Posts: 114
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(Msg. 6) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 8:13 am
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Tegger®" <teggeratistopdotcom.DeleteThis@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote in message
news:Xns957148DB7977teggeratistop@207.14.113.17...
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcom> muttered darkly in
> news:33a49$415759c0$180ffc74$3931@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>
> >
> > "Ernie Sty" <fake_email.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:JOidnZ9_y8UIpcrcRVn-sA@giganews.com...
> >>I have a 2003 Corolla.
> >>
> >> I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole.
> >> The plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening
> >> the plug and
> >> suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
> >>
> >> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a
> >> larger size,
> >> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then
> >> the insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to
> >> have the oil
> >> pan replaced?
> >>
> >
> >
> > It's a little late for this advice, but it is not necessary to really
> > crank down on the drain plug. It only has to be tight enough so it
> > doesn't work loose or leak. I hope for your sake you're not
> > over-tightening the oil filter either. Tighten the oil filter as
> > tight as you can get it with slightly oily hands - when your hand
> > slips on the oil filter housing, it's probably tight enough. Since
> > you are supposed to check for leaks when you start the engine after an
> > oil change, you can always tighten the drain plug or oil filter if it
> > leaks but you can't visually check to see if it is over-tightened.
> >
> > You did a pretty good job of naming your options.
> >
> > The challenge to drilling and rethreading is finding a suitable drain
> > plug.
> >
> > Threaded inserts, A.K.A helicoils, may work and is probably the
> > easiest option besides replacing the oil pan.
> >
> > In any case, you should remove the oil pan to work on it so you don't
> > get metal shavings into the oil pan.
>
>
>
> Removal of the pan for helicoils is not necessary. Any metal shavings will
> sit on bottom of pan harmlessly.
>
> These are the most practical options, in order of ease:
>
> 1) Expanding rubber plug. These have a rubber sleeve. When you tighten
> them, the sleeve expands to fill the hole and clamp itself in place.
> Available cheaply at most auto supply stores. Tend to wear out and
> eventually start leaking again. $10 or less.
>
> 2) Helicoil-type insert. Best professionally installed. Essentially
> permanent fix unless defective. Can be installed fairly quickly without
> removing the oil pan. $50-100
>
> 3) New oil pan. Easily, far and away the most expensive. $200-400.
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
Thanks to you and everyone else who responded. I decided to take it to the
dealer and let them decide whether a helicoil-type insert or new pan is most
appropriate. I suspect they will suggest a replacement pan. If it was an
older car I'd try doing a helicoil insert myself, but due to the fact that
it's so new, I'm not going to mess with any of this myself. They said
somewhere around $360 for a replacement pan. It'll take me a few years to
make that back doing my own oil changes, but at least now I know better than
to tighten it too much. I will check the manual for a torque rating on the
bolt for future reference, as it didn't seem like I was tightening it all
that much...<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 3
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(Msg. 7) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 8:21 am
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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I've gotten oversize self tapping oil plugs that are made just for what happened
to you. Used to be a common thing to happen on Chevys. Call your local parts
stores, you may have to take the old plug in so they can give you the proper
size. Oil pan plugs and sparkplugs are probably the most over torqued things by
the do it yourselfers.
Ernie Sty wrote:
> I have a 2003 Corolla.
>
> I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The
> plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug and
> suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.
>
> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger size,
> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
> insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the oil
> pan replaced?<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Nov 29, 2003
Posts: 104
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(Msg. 8) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 12:21 pm
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On 26-Sep-2004, "Ernie Sty" <fake_email DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger
> size,
> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
> insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the
> oil
> pan replaced?
The oil pan is probably the same for a number of years. If you have to
replace it try a wrecking yard. As far as tightness goes, with a 3/8 drive
ratchet I just grab the head of the ratchet handle,(where the socket
attaches) instead of the handle itself and get it good and snug. It's hard
to put a lot of torque on a bolt this way.
--
Every day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1
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(Msg. 9) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:01 pm
Post subject: Torque wrench? (was Stripped oil pan drain hole threads?) [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention specific
torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and if so, which kind
and where? I asked about this in an auto parts store once. For some of the
settings I mentioned (I believe very low torque) they said it would require a
very special wrench that would cost closer to the $150 range if I could find
one and probably to not bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen
some of the long ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure
about the quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic
do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't fit in
many places in an engine compartment.
What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of
hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench (in this
thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a wrench (maybe this
was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping up and down on the wheel
wrench when changing tires (especially getting them off)! I know different
people have different hand strengths but is there a general guideline to what
hand tight, or hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in
terms of torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So
far we've got:
Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands
Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Jun 10, 2004
Posts: 1035
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(Msg. 10) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 3:23 pm
Post subject: Re: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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max-income.DeleteThis@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
>On 26-Sep-2004, "Ernie Sty" <fake_email.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger
>> size,
>> or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the
>> insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the
>> oil
>> pan replaced?
>
>The oil pan is probably the same for a number of years. If you have to
>replace it try a wrecking yard. As far as tightness goes, with a 3/8 drive
>ratchet I just grab the head of the ratchet handle,(where the socket
>attaches) instead of the handle itself and get it good and snug. It's hard
>to put a lot of torque on a bolt this way.
At least don't tighten it 'newfie tight' (that's defined 'as
tight as possible plus a half turn'...) 
--
-Gord.
(use gordon in email)<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 1203
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(Msg. 11) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 3:23 pm
Post subject: Re: Torque wrench? (was Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Brian <brian_haskell.TakeThisOut@hotmail.NoSpam.com> muttered darkly in
news:41584751.2239E707@hotmail.NoSpam.com:
> This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention
> specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and if
> so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts store
> once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low
> torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would
> cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not
> bother and just do it "finger tight".
You can just buy a cheap beam-type torque wrench. For stuff like oil
changing, it will be just fine.
You can get a decent beam type for $20-30.
>
> Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands
Hand-tight with dry hands is fine for aftermarket filters. Toyota OEM
filters should be tightened 3/4 turn once the gasket touches the block.
> Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench.
>
"Hand tight" is meaningless unless you are very experienced in exactly what
a bolt feels like when it's "just right".
Specified torque for your vehicle's oil drain bolt is probably 18 ft lbs,
which ain't a whole lot and is easily achieved one-handed with a short box-
end 14mm wrench.
--
TeGGeR®
How to find anything on the Internet:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.google.com" target="_blank">www.google.com</a>
or in Usenet Groups:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.groups.google.com" target="_blank">www.groups.google.com</a>
Google is your friend. Learn how to use it.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Oct 07, 2003
Posts: 291
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(Msg. 12) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:21 pm
Post subject: Re: Torque wrench? (was Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the
engine together LOL
mike hunt
Philip wrote:
>
> Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched drain
> plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of
> sealing washers and o-rings used to seal drain plugs. Also, the pan itself
> (cast aluminum vs. stamped steel with reinforcement) greatly affects how
> much torque is needed to do the job.
>
> As mention earlier (before this thread name was changed), using a 3/8ths
> drive ratchet with a handle no longer than the width of your hand is the way
> to go and ... it will fit in your glovebox.
> --
> -Philip
>
> Brian wrote:
> > This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention
> > specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and
> > if so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts
> > store once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low
> > torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would
> > cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not
> > bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen some of the long
> > ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure about the
> > quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic
> > do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't
> > fit in many places in an engine compartment.
> >
> > What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of
> > hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench
> > (in this thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a
> > wrench (maybe this was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping
> > up and down on the wheel wrench when changing tires (especially
> > getting them off)! I know different people have different hand
> > strengths but is there a general guideline to what hand tight, or
> > hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in terms of
> > torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So
> > far we've got:
> >
> > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands
> > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Sep 25, 2004
Posts: 439
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(Msg. 13) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:21 pm
Post subject: Re: Torque wrench? (was Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched drain
plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of
sealing washers and o-rings used to seal drain plugs. Also, the pan itself
(cast aluminum vs. stamped steel with reinforcement) greatly affects how
much torque is needed to do the job.
As mention earlier (before this thread name was changed), using a 3/8ths
drive ratchet with a handle no longer than the width of your hand is the way
to go and ... it will fit in your glovebox.
--
-Philip
Brian wrote:
> This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention
> specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and
> if so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts
> store once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low
> torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would
> cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not
> bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen some of the long
> ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure about the
> quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic
> do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't
> fit in many places in an engine compartment.
>
> What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of
> hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench
> (in this thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a
> wrench (maybe this was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping
> up and down on the wheel wrench when changing tires (especially
> getting them off)! I know different people have different hand
> strengths but is there a general guideline to what hand tight, or
> hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in terms of
> torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So
> far we've got:
>
> Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands
> Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Aug 06, 2004
Posts: 330
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(Msg. 14) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:21 pm
Post subject: Re: Torque wrench? (was Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:51:30 -0400, MelvinGibson DeleteThis @mailcity.com wrote:
>Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the
>engine together LOL
I used to do my own oil changes.
It only costs 24 bucks at the dealer and if they strip the plug...they
fix it...lol
>
>
>mike hunt
>
>
>
>Philip wrote:
>>
>> Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched drain
>> plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of
>> sealing washers and o-rings used to seal drain plugs. Also, the pan itself
>> (cast aluminum vs. stamped steel with reinforcement) greatly affects how
>> much torque is needed to do the job.
>>
>> As mention earlier (before this thread name was changed), using a 3/8ths
>> drive ratchet with a handle no longer than the width of your hand is the way
>> to go and ... it will fit in your glovebox.
>> --
>> -Philip
>>
>> Brian wrote:
>> > This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention
>> > specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and
>> > if so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts
>> > store once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low
>> > torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would
>> > cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not
>> > bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen some of the long
>> > ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure about the
>> > quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic
>> > do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't
>> > fit in many places in an engine compartment.
>> >
>> > What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of
>> > hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench
>> > (in this thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a
>> > wrench (maybe this was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping
>> > up and down on the wheel wrench when changing tires (especially
>> > getting them off)! I know different people have different hand
>> > strengths but is there a general guideline to what hand tight, or
>> > hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in terms of
>> > torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So
>> > far we've got:
>> >
>> > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands
>> > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench.
Scott in Florida<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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External
Since: Jun 09, 2004
Posts: 114
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(Msg. 15) Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:28 pm
Post subject: Re: Torque wrench? (was Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Well, I can see where applying exact torque to a drain plug might be
overkill. I like the idea of holding the ratcheting end of the ratchet in
your hand, as you wouldn't have to bother with the TW. You'd have to be
hideously strong to strip out even aluminum threads that way!
On the other hand, if your owner's manual gives a torque rating for the
drain plug bolt, I don't get how you could go wrong with a torque wrench,
don't they take into account what the drain hole threads are made of when
they write the manual?
"Philip" <1chip-state1.RemoveThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:GQ%5d.715$Yr.121@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched
drain
> plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of
> sealing washers and o-rings used to seal drain plugs. Also, the pan
itself
> (cast aluminum vs. stamped steel with reinforcement) greatly affects how
> much torque is needed to do the job.
>
> As mention earlier (before this thread name was changed), using a 3/8ths
> drive ratchet with a handle no longer than the width of your hand is the
way
> to go and ... it will fit in your glovebox.
> --
> -Philip
>
>
> Brian wrote:
> > This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention
> > specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and
> > if so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts
> > store once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low
> > torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would
> > cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not
> > bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen some of the long
> > ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure about the
> > quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic
> > do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't
> > fit in many places in an engine compartment.
> >
> > What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of
> > hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench
> > (in this thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a
> > wrench (maybe this was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping
> > up and down on the wheel wrench when changing tires (especially
> > getting them off)! I know different people have different hand
> > strengths but is there a general guideline to what hand tight, or
> > hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in terms of
> > torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So
> > far we've got:
> >
> > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands
> > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench.
>
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Stripped oil pan drain hole threads? |
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