"tim1337" <UseLinkToEmail.TakeThisOut@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:422b4e6e$1_1@alt.athenanews.com...
> "michaeltnull" wrote:
> > As Randall says, it sounds like the coolant isn't circulating.
> > Since the
> > guage starts reading right and then climbs to red line in
> > about the time
> > we'd expect for no coolant flow, I don't think the guage is
> > lying. Don't
> > drive that car until you get this sorted out or you will be
> > dealing with a
> > warped cylinder head on top of whatever's doing this.
> >
> > There have been sporadic reports of water pumps that have lost
> > their vanes,
> > but you could also be dealing with a blockage or other coolant
> > supply
> > problem.
> >
> > If your timing belt is due for replacement soon, you may want
> > to bite the
> > bullet and get the timing belt and water pump replaced now.
> > The labor is
> > essentially the same to do one as to do both. If the timing
> > belt isn't due
> > for a few more years, the gurus here may have some tips and
> > hints for
> > checking the water pump and coolant flow.
> >
> > Mike
>
> is replacing the water pump hard/expensive?
>
I'm afraid so. The pump is nestled behind the timing belt. The major steps
are:
1) drain the coolant system (naturally)
2) remove the crankshaft pulleys (harmonic balancer)... this takes a hefty
impact wrench or a pulley holding tool and a socket with giganamous cheater
bar. It *cannot* be done with the old trick of putting the socket handle on
a jackstand and bumping the starter because the engine turns the wrong way.
The pulley holding tool is useful even with the impact wrench.
3) remove the timing belt cover and timing belt
4) remove the water pump
5) put it back together about the way it came apart, but without all the
colorful language describing the insanely tight hardware.
Many of us lump water pump replacement in with timing belt replacement
because the first three steps are the same. The market price for timing belt
and water pump replacement is around $500 all told, but it is possible to
pay significantly more and possible to pay significantly less. As a DIY job
it definitely gets into the "very challenging" range unless you can get a
shop to break that crank bolt loose and retorque it for you. The spec'd
torque is under 200 ft-lbs but it gets extremely stubborn over the years.
The bolt is accessible easily enough to make that a practical approach if
you can find a shop willing to do it (or if you rent a powerful torque
wrench and buy a 19 mm impact socket).
Mike<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
>> Stay informed about: Heating problem in 1988 Honda accord