Coolant/oil problems with Malibu

In my opinion, I usually see buildup inside the coolant system after the
vehicle has been run a while with a low coolant level. The hot air interacts
with the coolant inside the engine causing it to crystalize. If you let
coolant leaks go for too long with the Dexcool, it will form crystals. The
solution is to make sure the coolant is topped off and no leaks are present
on a regular basis say every oil change. If you find a coolant leak with
Dexcool and get it fixed asap, you shouldn't have any problems with buildup
after the fact assuming the coolant is topped off {no air in the system}.
The lower intake manifold gaskets were an issue and a bad design. They leak
quite often if they have the old style gaskets on them. Since they have come
out with a new design gaskets that seal much better and prevents
overtightening and excessive crush. I haven't seen too many valve cover
seals leak on the 3.1 and 3.4s. That would be much more uncommon than the
lower intake leaking. I have seen a lot of oil pump drive o-rings leaking
close to that area. That o-ring should be changed also if doing a lower
intake gasket job. Doing the job of replacing lower intake gaskets at the
house can be tricky, the pushrods for the intake and exhaust valves are
different lengths.

You have a totally different design with the new 2.2 Ecotec. Its a dual
overhead cam engine with dual balance shafts. Your 2.2 Ecotec is a design
variant from the 2.4L Quadfour engines. The older {pre Ecotec}2.2L overhead
valve engine is a totally different engine and did have a bad design on the
cylinder head gasket from the factory. They have also updated the cylinder
head gaskets to relsolve that problem on the older engines {around '95 to
'00 as far as I know there may be more of a year range} The only issues I've
seen with the Ecotec was some broken timing chain tensioners and 1 that had
thrown a rod from driving though a flood and sucking up water in the intake.
Overall a very solid engine. We don't see that many for repairs. Just be
sure to have the oil changed regularly and it will be a reliable engine.


--
Jason E.
ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
GM Master Certified Technician

"Gino" <ginnaam.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:JA7pd.323962$%k.227946@pd7tw2no...
 >
 >
 > "TJ" <NoneOfYourFre.TakeThisOut@king.business> wrote in message
 > news:9N2dnXQfkuQ8YzncRVn-2A@wideopenwest.com...
 > My neighbor has had a 2001 Malibu 3.1 litre and bought it new it now has
 > 34k
 > miles, he has had lots of problems with the dexcool coolant gunking up
 > inside of his hoses and stuff and has since switched to regular green
 > coolant, also he has had lots of problems with the water pump gaskets and
 > valve cover gaskets leaking and burning smells after opening the hood when
 > he stops the car after having driven it. He is an older married guy with
 > 2
 > kids and he doesn't run the car hard or anything. My question is this,
 > will
 > I have similar problems with my 2004 2.2 litre Malibu?
 >
 > *************************************************************
 >
 > GM had problems with the 2.2 litre engine up to about 1996, after that it
 > appears they fixed the problems with the head and head gaskets.
 >
 > The 3.1 litre engine and the 3.4 litre is another matter. These engines
 > have a problem with the lower manifold gasket. The Gaskets is made of a
 > plastic material and has a tendency to leak. There is a revised lower
 > manifold gasket available for the 3.1 and 3.4 litre engines which is "
 > supposed" to cure this problem. The new 2004 3.4 litre engine does not
 > appear to have this problem.
 >
 > Your neighbour should be talking to GM, I know in Canada with "low
 > mileage"
 > cars they have selectively been fixing them on a shared cost basis with
 > the
 > customers. I thought of changing from Dexcool, but if there was something
 > wrong with it as a coolant why would GM still continue to use it. And why
 > would the local mechanic not recommend a switch to the green glycol. I do
 > know that with any coolant mix, non mineral water should be used and not
 > tap
 > water. Chlorine plays havoc with aluminium parts.
 >
 > Hope this helps.
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Coolant/oil problems with Malibu 

"Jay" <JAY4SPEED.DeleteThis@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3Wupd.19146$233.8284@okepread05...
 > In my opinion, I usually see buildup inside the coolant system after the
 > vehicle has been run a while with a low coolant level. The hot air
 > interacts with the coolant inside the engine causing it to crystalize. If
 > you let coolant leaks go for too long with the Dexcool, it will form
 > crystals. The solution is to make sure the coolant is topped off and no
 > leaks are present on a regular basis say every oil change. If you find a
 > coolant leak with Dexcool and get it fixed asap, you shouldn't have any
 > problems with buildup after the fact assuming the coolant is topped off
 > {no air in the system}. The lower intake manifold gaskets were an issue
 > and a bad design. They leak quite often if they have the old style gaskets
 > on them. Since they have come out with a new design gaskets that seal much
 > better and prevents overtightening and excessive crush. I haven't seen too
 > many valve cover seals leak on the 3.1 and 3.4s. That would be much more
 > uncommon than the lower intake leaking. I have seen a lot of oil pump
 > drive o-rings leaking close to that area. That o-ring should be changed
 > also if doing a lower intake gasket job. Doing the job of replacing lower
 > intake gaskets at the house can be tricky, the pushrods for the intake and
 > exhaust valves are different lengths.
 >
 > You have a totally different design with the new 2.2 Ecotec. Its a dual
 > overhead cam engine with dual balance shafts. Your 2.2 Ecotec is a design
 > variant from the 2.4L Quadfour engines. The older {pre Ecotec}2.2L
 > overhead valve engine is a totally different engine and did have a bad
 > design on the cylinder head gasket from the factory. They have also
 > updated the cylinder head gaskets to relsolve that problem on the older
 > engines {around '95 to '00 as far as I know there may be more of a year
 > range} The only issues I've seen with the Ecotec was some broken timing
 > chain tensioners and 1 that had thrown a rod from driving though a flood
 > and sucking up water in the intake. Overall a very solid engine. We don't
 > see that many for repairs. Just be sure to have the oil changed regularly
 > and it will be a reliable engine.
 >

Thanks for the info, I'll let my neighbor know he should have his gaskets
changed and to keep his coolant level full. As far as my oil changes, this
is the first newer car I have ever owned, on the older cars I had they
leaked/burned oil so I tried to change the oil every 3k miles, is this good
to do with newer engines or should I change the oil less often, I think the
owners manual says every 7.5k miles. I do mostly highway driving on the way
to and from work but 2 days a week I do some stop and go driving on my days
off. I plan on using Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil only. AMSOIL looks good
but until I talk to someone who has personally used it, I'm not going to
trust it.


 >
 > --
 > Jason E.
 > ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
 > GM Master Certified Technician
 >
 > "Gino" <ginnaam.DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
 > news:JA7pd.323962$%k.227946@pd7tw2no...
  >>
  >>
  >> "TJ" <NoneOfYourFre.DeleteThis@king.business> wrote in message
  >> news:9N2dnXQfkuQ8YzncRVn-2A@wideopenwest.com...
  >> My neighbor has had a 2001 Malibu 3.1 litre and bought it new it now has
  >> 34k
  >> miles, he has had lots of problems with the dexcool coolant gunking up
  >> inside of his hoses and stuff and has since switched to regular green
  >> coolant, also he has had lots of problems with the water pump gaskets and
  >> valve cover gaskets leaking and burning smells after opening the hood
  >> when
  >> he stops the car after having driven it. He is an older married guy with
  >> 2
  >> kids and he doesn't run the car hard or anything. My question is this,
  >> will
  >> I have similar problems with my 2004 2.2 litre Malibu?
  >>
  >> *************************************************************
  >>
  >> GM had problems with the 2.2 litre engine up to about 1996, after that it
  >> appears they fixed the problems with the head and head gaskets.
  >>
  >> The 3.1 litre engine and the 3.4 litre is another matter. These engines
  >> have a problem with the lower manifold gasket. The Gaskets is made of a
  >> plastic material and has a tendency to leak. There is a revised lower
  >> manifold gasket available for the 3.1 and 3.4 litre engines which is "
  >> supposed" to cure this problem. The new 2004 3.4 litre engine does not
  >> appear to have this problem.
  >>
  >> Your neighbour should be talking to GM, I know in Canada with "low
  >> mileage"
  >> cars they have selectively been fixing them on a shared cost basis with
  >> the
  >> customers. I thought of changing from Dexcool, but if there was something
  >> wrong with it as a coolant why would GM still continue to use it. And why
  >> would the local mechanic not recommend a switch to the green glycol. I do
  >> know that with any coolant mix, non mineral water should be used and not
  >> tap
  >> water. Chlorine plays havoc with aluminium parts.
  >>
  >> Hope this helps.
  >>
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Coolant/oil problems with Malibu 

TJ
The reasoning behind my recommending changing the oil every 3k miles is in
the variables. I'll explain what I mean in a second. At my dealership, its
often a sore point to bring up with a customer why they should change their
oil every 3k miles. A salesman will sell a car to a customer explaining that
it has a "change engine oil light" and that the oil does not have to be
changed until it comes on. Depending how you drive the light may not come on
for up to 10k miles or as little as 1,500 miles if you drive it hard. Then
the customer comes to the service department, they are told that they should
change their oil every 3k miles. This leaves the customer feeling very
ripped off and that the service dept is trying to get over on them. There is
a reason why my service department tells the customer to change it at 3k.
The "change oil light" is controlled by a program in the engine computer. It
monitors the way you drive your vehicle, counts engine rpms, and some may
account for time the vehicle has been running and it will make a decision of
how much oil life it left until the next oil change. While monitoring all
those calculations the engine computer cannot actually sense oil viscosity
breakdown or contaminants. It doesn't know if you drive in particularly
dusty or humid conditions {which does place moisture in the oil}. In short
it doesn't know the whole story to oil condition, it just calculates when
the oil should be changed based on math. I view the owners manual the same
way. When Chevrolet printed that owners manual, even though it should be
considered the "bible" for that vehicles operation, it cannot account for
all the conditions that the car will experience during its lifetime. It has
to generalize and come up with a standard that people from all areas and
driving conditions can conform to. To me, in my vehicle, it just makes sense
to over maintain my vehicle a slight bit to insure reliable operation. The
vehicle I tend to work the least on is my own. I maintain it to a "T" and it
has had very little problems. There is no ploy from the service department
to make more money by telling a customer that their oil changes need to be
done sooner, its simply a mechanical fact. Same goes with the "100K mile
trans fluid" and "100K mile coolant." Who's to say that the humidity hasn't
gotten into the trans fluid causing it to turn to Pepto-Bismol if the
vehicle hasn't been driven long enough to evaporate out the moisture. See
what I mean? Use those numbers a guides but don't be afraid to short service
your vehicle especially if you live or drive in harsh conditions. You not
wasting your money, your buying insurance.

Synthetic oils are open to much debate. I'm a fan of them if you can afford
it. Most cases its not needed. In my opinion, the main use of synthetic oil
is to hold up better against the heat or cold, no other reasons. I've talked
to Pennzoil representatives that explained to me that synthetics behave just
like mineral oil under normal operating conditions. Where they excel is in
the extreme heat and cold conditions. Most people just throw their money
away by buying expensive exotic oil and it really doesn't benefit them any
more than mineral oil would because their vehicle doesn't go to the extremes
that will tap into the benefits of synth oil. And don't think for a second
that if you use exotic synth oils that your oil change intervals can be
extended. If you pay close attention, they say that the synth fights
viscosity breakdown extending oil change intervals. This may all and well be
true, but synth oil gets dirty from carbon and moisture contamination just
as easy as regular oil. Even if you decide to go synth, still change the oil
every 3k miles. Especially, do not use synth oil until after your first 2
oil changes approx 6k miles. I have made that mistake in race engines I have
built and had piston ring seating problems. Use synth only after the rings
have had plenty of time to seat. You may experience lower compression and
higher oil consumption if you do. However, to the credit of synth oil, I've
taken apart race engines with over 60K miles for rebuilds that I know were
driven very hard and it looked like the day they were built on the inside
all nice and clean. The difference? Oil changes every 3k miles! Good luck!


--
Jason E.
ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
GM Master Certified Technician
 >> Stay informed about: Coolant/oil problems with Malibu 

"Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
news:nUCpd.19981$233.12153@okepread05...
 > TJ

SNIP

 > Synthetic oils are open to much debate. I'm a fan of them if you can
 > afford it. Most cases its not needed. In my opinion, the main use of
 > synthetic oil is to hold up better against the heat or cold, no other
 > reasons. I've talked to Pennzoil representatives that explained to me that
 > synthetics behave just like mineral oil under normal operating conditions.
 > Where they excel is in the extreme heat and cold conditions. Most people
 > just throw their money away by buying expensive exotic oil and it really
 > doesn't benefit them any more than mineral oil would because their vehicle
 > doesn't go to the extremes that will tap into the benefits of synth oil.
 > And don't think for a second that if you use exotic synth oils that your
 > oil change intervals can be extended. If you pay close attention, they say
 > that the synth fights viscosity breakdown extending oil change intervals.
 > This may all and well be true, but synth oil gets dirty from carbon and
 > moisture contamination just as easy as regular oil. Even if you decide to
 > go synth, still change the oil every 3k miles. Especially, do not use
 > synth oil until after your first 2 oil changes approx 6k miles. I have
 > made that mistake in race engines I have built and had piston ring seating
 > problems. Use synth only after the rings have had plenty of time to seat.
 > You may experience lower compression and higher oil consumption if you do.
 > However, to the credit of synth oil, I've taken apart race engines with
 > over 60K miles for rebuilds that I know were driven very hard and it
 > looked like the day they were built on the inside all nice and clean. The
 > difference? Oil changes every 3k miles! Good luck!
 >
 >
 > --
 > Jason E.
 > ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
 > GM Master Certified Technician
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >

I was told that the AMSOIL gave you a much longer change interval, (25k
miles I think) because their filter is that much better than conventional, I
know that the oil doesn't make much of a diff. I will change the oil every
3k miles though just to be safe, I had bought the car used with 26k miles on
it already, it was a rental car companys car before I got it so I think its
safe to assume the maintanance was kept up on it. When I took it in to get
the rotors turned the dealership tried to sell me a 30k mile service deal
for around 400 dollars, I told them I didnt want it because it seemed very
pricey to me and most of it was checking fluid levels and making sure hoses
were in good shape and I figured I can do that on my own for much cheaper by
going to autozone for the air and oil filters, should I have this service
package done? Is there any brands I should stay away from when changing the
oil, or does it not matter? Usually in the past I have either bought Fram
or STP filters, I think I might finally try one of those K & N air filters.
My buddy just got one and has noticed a 5-7 MPG boost because of it.

The other day when driving on an exit ramp of the freeway that curved pretty
bad and later the same day going up a steep hill, my coolant light came on,
but went off again about 1 second after coming on, is this just because the
coolant all went to one side of the radiator or is it actually low?<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Coolant/oil problems with Malibu 

I hafta call BS on the 5-7 MPG increase b/c of the K&N air filter. Sorry.
Ain't happenin... not unless his old air filter was just unbelievably
filthy. Gotta be careful w/ the oil on the K&N air filters too... gets on
sensors & can cause problems. As for the coolant issue.. check the coolant
level lol. Answer your own question, bud. You have the car.. not us!

And yes, you made the right decision if you're mechanically inclined at all
to avoid the 30k mile service deal... it's a load of crap, IMO. Avoid
cheaper brand filters too... make the car last.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Full Boar turbo mufflers
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors


"TJ" <NoneOfYourFre DeleteThis @king.business> wrote in message
news:jsadnTd7x8NGhDrcRVn-qg@wideopenwest.com...
 >
 > "Jay" <JAY4SPEED DeleteThis @cox.net> wrote in message
 > news:nUCpd.19981$233.12153@okepread05...
  > > TJ
 >
 > SNIP
 >
  > > Synthetic oils are open to much debate. I'm a fan of them if you can
  > > afford it. Most cases its not needed. In my opinion, the main use of
  > > synthetic oil is to hold up better against the heat or cold, no other
  > > reasons. I've talked to Pennzoil representatives that explained to me
that
  > > synthetics behave just like mineral oil under normal operating
conditions.
  > > Where they excel is in the extreme heat and cold conditions. Most people
  > > just throw their money away by buying expensive exotic oil and it really
  > > doesn't benefit them any more than mineral oil would because their
vehicle
  > > doesn't go to the extremes that will tap into the benefits of synth oil.
  > > And don't think for a second that if you use exotic synth oils that your
  > > oil change intervals can be extended. If you pay close attention, they
say
  > > that the synth fights viscosity breakdown extending oil change
intervals.
  > > This may all and well be true, but synth oil gets dirty from carbon and
  > > moisture contamination just as easy as regular oil. Even if you decide
to
  > > go synth, still change the oil every 3k miles. Especially, do not use
  > > synth oil until after your first 2 oil changes approx 6k miles. I have
  > > made that mistake in race engines I have built and had piston ring
seating
  > > problems. Use synth only after the rings have had plenty of time to
seat.
  > > You may experience lower compression and higher oil consumption if you
do.
  > > However, to the credit of synth oil, I've taken apart race engines with
  > > over 60K miles for rebuilds that I know were driven very hard and it
  > > looked like the day they were built on the inside all nice and clean.
The
  > > difference? Oil changes every 3k miles! Good luck!
  > >
  > >
  > > --
  > > Jason E.
  > > ASE Master Technician with L1 Advanced engine performance
  > > GM Master Certified Technician
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
 >
 > I was told that the AMSOIL gave you a much longer change interval, (25k
 > miles I think) because their filter is that much better than conventional,
I
 > know that the oil doesn't make much of a diff. I will change the oil
every
 > 3k miles though just to be safe, I had bought the car used with 26k miles
on
 > it already, it was a rental car companys car before I got it so I think
its
 > safe to assume the maintanance was kept up on it. When I took it in to
get
 > the rotors turned the dealership tried to sell me a 30k mile service deal
 > for around 400 dollars, I told them I didnt want it because it seemed very
 > pricey to me and most of it was checking fluid levels and making sure
hoses
 > were in good shape and I figured I can do that on my own for much cheaper
by
 > going to autozone for the air and oil filters, should I have this service
 > package done? Is there any brands I should stay away from when changing
the
 > oil, or does it not matter? Usually in the past I have either bought Fram
 > or STP filters, I think I might finally try one of those K & N air
filters.
 > My buddy just got one and has noticed a 5-7 MPG boost because of it.
 >
 > The other day when driving on an exit ramp of the freeway that curved
pretty
 > bad and later the same day going up a steep hill, my coolant light came
on,
 > but went off again about 1 second after coming on, is this just because
the
 > coolant all went to one side of the radiator or is it actually low?
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Coolant/oil problems with Malibu