balljoint DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:
> On Oct 29, 4:27 pm, balljo... DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:
>>> $800 qoute from shop for this. Ouch!!!
>>>
>>> Scale of 1 to 10 how hard is this to do at home and are special
>>> tools required?
>>>
>>> thanks.
>>>
>>> --
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>
>> I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you
>> also There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store
>> that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on
>> line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for
>> the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
>
>> http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1136436.html
>
>> Not too hard to do your self with this, no need to remove the arm
>>from the vehicle only to drop the torsion bar and shock, then
>> seperate the ball joint from the spindle.
>
> Thanks for the reply. Looks like mine are $100 and the store does
> rent the tool for just a deposit charge. Looks like I need to pick
> up a manaul and read it and goto it.
>
> thanks again.
>
>
You won't need any real special tools to remove the ball joints on the
4X4 S truck. They are almost the same from Just a torque wrench for the
bolts for the new joints.
The upper and lower ball joints are riveted on. You need to either grind
the heads off the rivets and knock the rest out OR drill out the heads
and knock out the rest. You may need a pickle fork if you don't have a
couple of large hammers. If you have hammers you can put one against the
steering knuckle and then give the opposite side a good hit with another
hammer. That will usually pop the stud loose from the knuckle.
You need a good jack and a couple jack stands. Pull the tires, brake
caliper mount and rotor. Then you loosen the nut and break the stud
free. Then remove the rivets. Now you can use a bar to move the upper
arm enough to remove the old joint. Install the new one (make sure you
install the grease zerk) and torque down the bolts to 17 ft. pounds.
The lower is a pain because the knuckle is in the way and blocks access.
You can get at the rivets from below easily though. Be VERY careful with
the wiring for the ABS sensors and the brake lines.
The book will tell you that you need to unload the torsion bars and pull
the drive axle. You really don't as long as you are careful. You can
remove the axle nut and push the outer joint back to gain more clearance
if needed.
Oh and if you do want to go by the book I have the factory book on the
shelf. (Helm # GMT/02-STOS-1,2,3)
Or you can look at the AutoZone repair guide for the 1999 S-Series and
make sure you look at the 4X4 section. Same procedure and parts.
http://snipurl.com/1sw15 Just don't believe the pictures since they are
showing the tie rod ends NOT the ball joints.
On 4WD vehicles both the upper and lower ball joints are removed in
the same manner. Once the joint is separated from the steering knuckle
the rivets are drilled and punched to free the joint from the control
arm. Service joints are bolted into position with the retaining bolts
threaded upward from beneath the control arm. In this manner, the joint
is replaced in an almost identical fashion to the upper joints on 2WD
vehicles.
1.Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
2.Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
3.When removing the upper ball joint, unplug the wheel speed sensor
wiring connector from the upper control arm.
4.Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, then loosen the
retaining nut.
5. Position a suitable ball joint separator tool such as J-36607, or
equivalent, then carefully loosen the joint in the steering knuckle.
Remove the tool and the retaining nut, then separate the joint from the
knuckle.
After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure
to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the
brake hose.
6. Remove the riveted ball joint from the control arm:
1.Drill a 1/8 in. (3mm) hole, about 1/4 in. (6mm) deep into
each rivet.
2.Then use a 1/2 in. (13mm) drill bit, to drill off the rivet
heads.
3.Using a pin punch and the hammer, drive out the rivets in
order to free the ball joint from the control arm assembly, then remove
the ball joint.
To install:
7. Position the joint in the control arm, then install the joint
retaining nuts and bolts. Position the bolts threaded upward from under
the control arm. Tighten the ball joint retainers to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
8.Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the
ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install
the stud nut and tighten both nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994
models. On 1995-99 models tighten the lower nut to 79 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)
and the upper nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose
the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
9. Use a grease gun to lubricate the upper ball joint.
10. If the upper ball joint was removed, attach the wheel speed
sensor wiring connector to the upper control arm.
11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
12. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
13. Check and adjust the front end alignment, as necessary.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
>> Stay informed about: Changing ball joints on 2002 S10 4WD 
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