Castrol Syntec

Do not exceed the recommended service intervals from Toyota for the type of
driving you do.


"TopHat" <TopHat.TakeThisOut@hotshit.com> wrote in message
news:mWiXj.9284$hv2.7181@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
> Hey folks,
>
> How often do need to change your oil once you switch to the full
> synthetics type.
>
> Thanks.
>
> 06 Tundra 4.7L 5K
>
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
extended drain intervals.

Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.



On May 16, 9:50 am, "TopHat" <Top....DeleteThis@hotshit.com> wrote:
> Hey folks,
>
> How often do need to change your oil once you switch to the full synthetics
> type.
>
> Thanks.
>
> 06 Tundra 4.7L 5K
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

<johngdole.DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:960510f8-bd73-448d-879c-329e1f856ed3@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
> Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
> miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
> sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
> extended drain intervals.
>
> Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.

I knew someone here in California that lost a turbo and had missed one oil
change by about 1500 miles. The dealer claimed that the warranty was void
and it cost a couple of grand to replace. Later, the car owner chanced to
talk to an attorney who was well versed in consumer law, and he pointed out
that it was up to the dealer to prove that the oil change interval was the
cause of the failure, and that since the failure came several oil changes,
and many thousands of miles after the missed oil change, it was unlikely the
dealer could make the assertion stick. Furthermore, since the dealer had
continued to service the vehicle at the sheduled intervals, ostensibly to
keep the warranty intact, they were implying that the warranty was still in
place. Long story short, the owner eventually was re-imbursed for the turbo.
I have an '05 Tundra with the 4.7L V-8. I have used Amsoil 0-30 in it
since the second oil change, and I change the filter every 5K, then a filter
and oil every third time, or 15K. I do the same with an old 22RE I have. At
237K I had occasion to tear down the 22RE because it ate a spark plug
insulator. The lower end was PRISTINE, and the bores were still crosshatched
the full length of the ring contact area all the way around the bore. I
installed a new head, and bored the block 30 over and put it back together
with the same lower end. The only real wear on the thing was from the rear
main seal, and I had a sleeve installed over that to make up for the groove
the seal had left. You are on your own with the warranty, but I think a set
of records, and receipts for the materials suffices as proof for your
warranty. I also think that when I dispose of my oil at 15K it is still
better than any "conventional" oil when new. As far as sludging goes, I
don't have any in either truck.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

Thanks all, my next question would be if you change your own oil how would
they know if you changed it at 3, 4, 5, or 6k, except for the lousy gas
mileage (11-12 mpg city) the truck runs great and needs no other service. Do
you technically have to take the truck in to be cover by warranty?

Thanks.

<johngdole.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:960510f8-bd73-448d-879c-329e1f856ed3@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
> Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
> miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
> sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
> extended drain intervals.
>
> Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.
>
>
>
> On May 16, 9:50 am, "TopHat" <Top....RemoveThis@hotshit.com> wrote:
>> Hey folks,
>>
>> How often do need to change your oil once you switch to the full
>> synthetics
>> type.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> 06 Tundra 4.7L 5K
>
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

"TopHat" <TopHat.DeleteThis@hotshit.com> wrote in message
news:9mBXj.6310$255.6030@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
> Thanks all, my next question would be if you change your own oil how would
> they know if you changed it at 3, 4, 5, or 6k, except for the lousy gas
> mileage (11-12 mpg city) the truck runs great and needs no other service.
> Do you technically have to take the truck in to be cover by warranty?
>
> Thanks.
>

I think that the point is that why would you want to risk problems?

Don't trust the marketing claims made by synthetic oil sellers, stick to the
recommended change interval. There's no need to visit the dealer for this,
but OTOH, they are better trained to do it than the average oil change shop.
I stopped using oil change shops after my drain plug was messed up for the
3rd time. Doing it yourself is a fine alternative as long as you know what
you're doing. Personally, I wouldn't waste money on over-priced synthetic,
since there's no credible evidence that it offers any benefits in terms of
engine life. Any gas savings are more than offset by the increased cost of
the oil.

Save your receipts for the oil and filter and you have all the evidence you
need if there's a warranty issue.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

On May 17, 9:16 am, "Long Ranger" <lorpkins@earthlink .net> wrote:
> <johngd....DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:960510f8-bd73-448d-879c-329e1f856ed3@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
> > miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
> > sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
> > extended drain intervals.
>
> > Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.
>
> I knew someone here in California that lost a turbo and had missed one oil
> change by about 1500 miles. The dealer claimed that the warranty was void
> and it cost a couple of grand to replace. Later, the car owner chanced to
> talk to an attorney who was well versed in consumer law, and he pointed out
> that it was up to the dealer to prove that the oil change interval was the
> cause of the failure, and that since the failure came several oil changes,
> and many thousands of miles after the missed oil change, it was unlikely the
> dealer could make the assertion stick. Furthermore, since the dealer had
> continued to service the vehicle at the sheduled intervals, ostensibly to
> keep the warranty intact, they were implying that the warranty was still in
> place. Long story short, the owner eventually was re-imbursed for the turbo.
> I have an '05 Tundra with the 4.7L V-8. I have used Amsoil 0-30 in it
> since the second oil change, and I change the filter every 5K, then a filter
> and oil every third time, or 15K. I do the same with an old 22RE I have. At
> 237K I had occasion to tear down the 22RE because it ate a spark plug
> insulator. The lower end was PRISTINE, and the bores were still crosshatched
> the full length of the ring contact area all the way around the bore. I
> installed a new head, and bored the block 30 over and put it back together
> with the same lower end. The only real wear on the thing was from the rear
> main seal, and I had a sleeve installed over that to make up for the groove
> the seal had left. You are on your own with the warranty, but I think a set
> of records, and receipts for the materials suffices as proof for your
> warranty. I also think that when I dispose of my oil at 15K it is still
> better than any "conventional" oil when new. As far as sludging goes, I
> don't have any in either truck.

I run Amsoil 5W-30 in my 2001 4.7L Sequoia and change the oil every
December, running 12-20 thousand miles per year. I change the oil
filter in June and December and use one of the very best oil filters
on the market (mobile 1 filter). My Sequoia doesn't use any
measurable amount of oil in the 6 months between filter changes. I
check the Ph of my oil for acidity and it has always been fine
throughout the year. I am in no way affiliated or market Amsoil I
just believe in their product and have been using it for over 20
years. If you think this is a fluke, my "old" truck is a 1991 3.0 V-6
Toyota 4x4 with over 310,000 miles on it. I recently swapped the
engine due to a bad exhaust valve and figured it was time for a tear
down on the original for new gaskets and seals. The original motor
still had all connecting rod and main bearings well within spec, still
some cross hatch in the cylinders, the cams with no noticeable wear
and no sludge. The machine shop that did the head work was amazed at
how many miles were on the heads judging by their condition. I
basically had the valves seats redone, made sure the surfaces were
true. Installed all new gaskets and seals and have the engine ready
for a reinstall if I ever need it. My point here is that it is well
worth the money to buy the best oil you can if you plan on keeping the
vehicle.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

You can do your own oil changes, but at least keep the receipts.

But Long Ranger is right, it's good to have a good lawyer on your side
and the courts on the consumers' side, but a lawyer costs more than an
oil change.



On May 17, 6:48 am, "TopHat" <Top... DeleteThis @hotshit.com> wrote:
> Thanks all, my next question would be if you change your own oil how would
> they know if you changed it at 3, 4, 5, or 6k, except for the lousy gas
> mileage (11-12 mpg city) the truck runs great and needs no other service. Do
> you technically have to take the truck in to be cover by warranty?
>
> Thanks.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

Interesting.

Was there any ridge at the top of the poston bore?

GC


"Handyman" <sgt_az.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0943b617-adb7-4f2f-b170-87e450d57782@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> On May 17, 9:16 am, "Long Ranger" <lorpkins@earthlink .net> wrote:
>> <johngd....DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:960510f8-bd73-448d-879c-329e1f856ed3@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> > Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
>> > miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
>> > sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
>> > extended drain intervals.
>>
>> > Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.
>>
>> I knew someone here in California that lost a turbo and had missed one
>> oil
>> change by about 1500 miles. The dealer claimed that the warranty was void
>> and it cost a couple of grand to replace. Later, the car owner chanced to
>> talk to an attorney who was well versed in consumer law, and he pointed
>> out
>> that it was up to the dealer to prove that the oil change interval was
>> the
>> cause of the failure, and that since the failure came several oil
>> changes,
>> and many thousands of miles after the missed oil change, it was unlikely
>> the
>> dealer could make the assertion stick. Furthermore, since the dealer had
>> continued to service the vehicle at the sheduled intervals, ostensibly to
>> keep the warranty intact, they were implying that the warranty was still
>> in
>> place. Long story short, the owner eventually was re-imbursed for the
>> turbo.
>> I have an '05 Tundra with the 4.7L V-8. I have used Amsoil 0-30 in it
>> since the second oil change, and I change the filter every 5K, then a
>> filter
>> and oil every third time, or 15K. I do the same with an old 22RE I have.
>> At
>> 237K I had occasion to tear down the 22RE because it ate a spark plug
>> insulator. The lower end was PRISTINE, and the bores were still
>> crosshatched
>> the full length of the ring contact area all the way around the bore. I
>> installed a new head, and bored the block 30 over and put it back
>> together
>> with the same lower end. The only real wear on the thing was from the
>> rear
>> main seal, and I had a sleeve installed over that to make up for the
>> groove
>> the seal had left. You are on your own with the warranty, but I think a
>> set
>> of records, and receipts for the materials suffices as proof for your
>> warranty. I also think that when I dispose of my oil at 15K it is still
>> better than any "conventional" oil when new. As far as sludging goes, I
>> don't have any in either truck.
>
> I run Amsoil 5W-30 in my 2001 4.7L Sequoia and change the oil every
> December, running 12-20 thousand miles per year. I change the oil
> filter in June and December and use one of the very best oil filters
> on the market (mobile 1 filter). My Sequoia doesn't use any
> measurable amount of oil in the 6 months between filter changes. I
> check the Ph of my oil for acidity and it has always been fine
> throughout the year. I am in no way affiliated or market Amsoil I
> just believe in their product and have been using it for over 20
> years. If you think this is a fluke, my "old" truck is a 1991 3.0 V-6
> Toyota 4x4 with over 310,000 miles on it. I recently swapped the
> engine due to a bad exhaust valve and figured it was time for a tear
> down on the original for new gaskets and seals. The original motor
> still had all connecting rod and main bearings well within spec, still
> some cross hatch in the cylinders, the cams with no noticeable wear
> and no sludge. The machine shop that did the head work was amazed at
> how many miles were on the heads judging by their condition. I
> basically had the valves seats redone, made sure the surfaces were
> true. Installed all new gaskets and seals and have the engine ready
> for a reinstall if I ever need it. My point here is that it is well
> worth the money to buy the best oil you can if you plan on keeping the
> vehicle.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

On May 17, 9:17 pm, "Chips" <chi... RemoveThis @reliableins.nospam> wrote:
> Interesting.
>
> Was there any ridge at the top of the poston bore?
>
> GC
>
> "Handyman" <sgt... RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:0943b617-adb7-4f2f-b170-87e450d57782@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On May 17, 9:16 am, "Long Ranger" <lorpkins@earthlink .net> wrote:
> >> <johngd... RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >>news:960510f8-bd73-448d-879c-329e1f856ed3@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
>
> >> > Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
> >> > miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
> >> > sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
> >> > extended drain intervals.
>
> >> > Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.
>
> >> I knew someone here in California that lost a turbo and had missed one
> >> oil
> >> change by about 1500 miles. The dealer claimed that the warranty was void
> >> and it cost a couple of grand to replace. Later, the car owner chanced to
> >> talk to an attorney who was well versed in consumer law, and he pointed
> >> out
> >> that it was up to the dealer to prove that the oil change interval was
> >> the
> >> cause of the failure, and that since the failure came several oil
> >> changes,
> >> and many thousands of miles after the missed oil change, it was unlikely
> >> the
> >> dealer could make the assertion stick. Furthermore, since the dealer had
> >> continued to service the vehicle at the sheduled intervals, ostensibly to
> >> keep the warranty intact, they were implying that the warranty was still
> >> in
> >> place. Long story short, the owner eventually was re-imbursed for the
> >> turbo.
> >>   I have an '05 Tundra with the 4.7L  V-8. I have used Amsoil 0-30 in it
> >> since the second oil change, and I change the filter every 5K, then a
> >> filter
> >> and oil every third time, or 15K. I do the same with an old 22RE I have..
> >> At
> >> 237K I had occasion to tear down the 22RE because it ate a spark plug
> >> insulator. The lower end was PRISTINE, and the bores were still
> >> crosshatched
> >> the full length of the ring contact area all the way around the bore. I
> >> installed a new head, and bored the block 30 over and put it back
> >> together
> >> with the same lower end. The only real wear on the thing was from the
> >> rear
> >> main seal, and I had a sleeve installed over that to make up for the
> >> groove
> >> the seal had left. You are on your own with the warranty, but I think a
> >> set
> >> of records, and receipts for the materials suffices as proof for your
> >> warranty. I also think that when I dispose of my oil at 15K it is still
> >> better than any  "conventional" oil when new. As far as sludging goes, I
> >> don't have any in either truck.
>
> > I run Amsoil 5W-30 in my 2001 4.7L Sequoia and change the oil every
> > December, running 12-20 thousand miles per year.  I change the oil
> > filter in June and December and use one of the very best oil filters
> > on the market (mobile 1 filter).  My Sequoia doesn't use any
> > measurable amount of oil in the 6 months between filter changes.  I
> > check the Ph of my oil for acidity and it has always been fine
> > throughout the year.  I am in no way affiliated or market Amsoil  I
> > just believe in their product and have been using it for over 20
> > years.  If you think this is a fluke, my "old" truck is a 1991 3.0 V-6
> > Toyota 4x4 with over 310,000 miles on it.  I recently swapped the
> > engine due to a bad exhaust valve and figured it was time for a tear
> > down on the original for new gaskets and seals.  The original motor
> > still had all connecting rod and main bearings well within spec, still
> > some cross hatch in the cylinders, the cams with no noticeable wear
> > and no sludge.  The machine shop that did the head work was amazed at
> > how many miles were on the heads judging by their condition.  I
> > basically had the valves seats redone, made sure the surfaces were
> > true.  Installed all new gaskets and seals and have the engine ready
> > for a reinstall if I ever need it.  My point here is that it is well
> > worth the money to buy the best oil you can if you plan on keeping the
> > vehicle.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Virtually no ridge at the top of the bore, just a faint line. I was
able to slip the pistons right out to check the rings and clean the
grooves. The bearings, connecting rods, rings, valve guides, crank,
cylinders and cams all looked great. Just had the valve seats redone
and installed all new seals and gaskets.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

On May 18, 5:25 pm, Handyman <sgt....DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On May 17, 9:17 pm, "Chips" <chi....DeleteThis@reliableins.nospam> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Interesting.
>
> > Was there any ridge at the top of the poston bore?
>
> > GC
>
> > "Handyman" <sgt....DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:0943b617-adb7-4f2f-b170-87e450d57782@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > On May 17, 9:16 am, "Long Ranger" <lorpkins@earthlink .net> wrote:
> > >> <johngd....DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > >>news:960510f8-bd73-448d-879c-329e1f856ed3@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
>
> > >> > Toyota's oil change interval since 2004 has been downgraded to 5000
> > >> > miles. Even their Lexus requires an oil change at 5000 miles or risk
> > >> > sludging up the engine. That's why I say Toyotas aren't designed for
> > >> > extended drain intervals.
>
> > >> > Go 5001 miles and technically your warranty is void.
>
> > >> I knew someone here in California that lost a turbo and had missed one
> > >> oil
> > >> change by about 1500 miles. The dealer claimed that the warranty was void
> > >> and it cost a couple of grand to replace. Later, the car owner chanced to
> > >> talk to an attorney who was well versed in consumer law, and he pointed
> > >> out
> > >> that it was up to the dealer to prove that the oil change interval was
> > >> the
> > >> cause of the failure, and that since the failure came several oil
> > >> changes,
> > >> and many thousands of miles after the missed oil change, it was unlikely
> > >> the
> > >> dealer could make the assertion stick. Furthermore, since the dealer had
> > >> continued to service the vehicle at the sheduled intervals, ostensibly to
> > >> keep the warranty intact, they were implying that the warranty was still
> > >> in
> > >> place. Long story short, the owner eventually was re-imbursed for the
> > >> turbo.
> > >> I have an '05 Tundra with the 4.7L V-8. I have used Amsoil 0-30 in it
> > >> since the second oil change, and I change the filter every 5K, then a
> > >> filter
> > >> and oil every third time, or 15K. I do the same with an old 22RE I have.
> > >> At
> > >> 237K I had occasion to tear down the 22RE because it ate a spark plug
> > >> insulator. The lower end was PRISTINE, and the bores were still
> > >> crosshatched
> > >> the full length of the ring contact area all the way around the bore. I
> > >> installed a new head, and bored the block 30 over and put it back
> > >> together
> > >> with the same lower end. The only real wear on the thing was from the
> > >> rear
> > >> main seal, and I had a sleeve installed over that to make up for the
> > >> groove
> > >> the seal had left. You are on your own with the warranty, but I think a
> > >> set
> > >> of records, and receipts for the materials suffices as proof for your
> > >> warranty. I also think that when I dispose of my oil at 15K it is still
> > >> better than any "conventional" oil when new. As far as sludging goes, I
> > >> don't have any in either truck.
>
> > > I run Amsoil 5W-30 in my 2001 4.7L Sequoia and change the oil every
> > > December, running 12-20 thousand miles per year. I change the oil
> > > filter in June and December and use one of the very best oil filters
> > > on the market (mobile 1 filter). My Sequoia doesn't use any
> > > measurable amount of oil in the 6 months between filter changes. I
> > > check the Ph of my oil for acidity and it has always been fine
> > > throughout the year. I am in no way affiliated or market Amsoil I
> > > just believe in their product and have been using it for over 20
> > > years. If you think this is a fluke, my "old" truck is a 1991 3.0 V-6
> > > Toyota 4x4 with over 310,000 miles on it. I recently swapped the
> > > engine due to a bad exhaust valve and figured it was time for a tear
> > > down on the original for new gaskets and seals. The original motor
> > > still had all connecting rod and main bearings well within spec, still
> > > some cross hatch in the cylinders, the cams with no noticeable wear
> > > and no sludge. The machine shop that did the head work was amazed at
> > > how many miles were on the heads judging by their condition. I
> > > basically had the valves seats redone, made sure the surfaces were
> > > true. Installed all new gaskets and seals and have the engine ready
> > > for a reinstall if I ever need it. My point here is that it is well
> > > worth the money to buy the best oil you can if you plan on keeping the
> > > vehicle.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Virtually no ridge at the top of the bore, just a faint line. I was
> able to slip the pistons right out to check the rings and clean the
> grooves. The bearings, connecting rods, rings, valve guides, crank,
> cylinders and cams all looked great. Just had the valve seats redone
> and installed all new seals and gaskets.

I forgot to mention two other key items I do as well with in my
vehicles. In the 4.7L Sequoia there is enough room to use the larger
Mobile1 filter, I believe it is a M1-205. The important thing with
extended oil changes is to change the oil before the oil filter goes
into bypass and stops filtering the oil all together. With a larger
filter, that obviously takes longer. The second thing the oil filter
does is help cool the oil, larger filter = more cooling. The second
thing I do is put a rare earth magnet on the end of the oil filter,
then remove it after I change oil filters and put it on the new
filter. You can pick up a rare earth magnet for a couple of bucks, a
good source for them is old computer hard drives otherwise. I've
always run magnetic drain plugs in my vehicles and once I started
using synthetic oil with the magnet on the filter my oil plug magnet
debris is almost gone. With conventional oil there was always a
slight buildup between 3,000 mile oil changes.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

On May 16, 12:50 pm, "TopHat" <Top....RemoveThis@hotshit.com> wrote:
> Hey folks,
>
> How often do need to change youroilonce you switch to the full synthetics
> type.
>
> Thanks.
>
> 06 Tundra 4.7L 5K

I change mine twice a year +filter,as most of my driving is 70% severe
service(in town)

2002 Toyota Camry 4cyl. auto over 125,000 k (77,500 miles)on it now
and NO sludging evident.

I use mobil 1 , 5w30 gray cap in the spring as I drive more then in
the summer months on the highway. And I use Mobil1 Extended Service
5w30 , yellow cap in the fall, as my driving is limited to 70% in town
with 2 trips a month on the highway of over 100 miles both ways , in
the winter. This is enough to burn off any water or acid that has
accumulated in the oil from in town driving.

Incidentally , I cant see that this vehicle uses ANY oil between
changes , judging by the dipstick level, and thats after a hard
highway run at and above the limits.

I think thats probably due to increased engine tolerances + the
quality of synthetic oil is far superiour to the old time dino oil.

Dont get me wrong , dino oil is good IF? you change it MORE often than
synthetic oil./

When I had my `92 accord (which the wife totaled ) I used to change
the oil + filter around every 4000 k(24-2500 miles) but then I used
dino oil of the best quality.(Usually Shell Rotella diesel rated
oil)It had about 350,000 on it at the time, and barely used any oil
between changes

In my `86 accord which is long gone now it had over 315,000 on it with
no problems when a 72 year old retard rear-ended it and totaled it.It
still ran like new and only used a liter of oil every 1000 -1200
miles on the highway , high speed trip driving.

When there was a prima facie speed limit in Montana I set the cruise
at 110 MPH and never had a problem.

I believe the biggest and best thing you can do for a car is frequent
oil + filter changes.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec 

"Chips" <chips1.RemoveThis@reliableins.nospam> wrote in message
news:76OXj.1007$co7.968@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...
> Interesting.
>
> Was there any ridge at the top of the poston bore?
>
> GC


I forgot to mention that I pushed the pistons right on out of the bore. No
ridge at all.
 >> Stay informed about: Castrol Syntec