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angelon

External


Since: Dec 30, 2004
Posts: 6



(Msg. 1) Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:02 am
Post subject: Brake problem - Master cylinder?
Archived from groups: alt>autos>mini (more info?)
Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages
although I believe the cause has been changing.
My 1275HLE Clubman 1982 has a tandem type master cylinder with a front/
back split. What Haynes calls "Later" version.

Symptom: pedal goes all the way to the floor the first time. Even
pumping once raises the pedal height giving me good brakes once only.

Each time after bleeding (done this countless times with auto kit and
manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up but
eventually fades after few brake tests.

I had leaks at some wheels but have fixed this by replacing most
cylinders.
I had the carpet leak and bought a master cylinder kit but was only
able to replace the main seals.
I was not able to remove the smaller piston where Haynes simply says
remove big hexagonal screw and take out piston.
I removed the screw, but the piston wouldn't come out. Could it be
siezed or is there some trick. I didn't see any "stop pin" like the
one on the main.
Could this be my problem or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Pleeaaaase help me someone.

Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982)

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angelon

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Since: Dec 30, 2004
Posts: 6



(Msg. 2) Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:30 am
Post subject: Re: Brake problem - Master cylinder? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Just to add to what i said previously, so as not to waste too much of
your time.
I did remove the switch from the master when bleeding. The plastic
thread is slightly stripped, but sitch sits in place when screwed back
in.
I bleed them in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far Front,
Near Front.

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Kelley Mascher

External


Since: Oct 23, 2003
Posts: 109



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:05 pm
Post subject: Re: Brake problem - Master cylinder? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
It's possible that there is something wrong with the pressure
differential valve that you couldn't remove. It could be frozen. It's
hard to say but let's assume that it's ok.

The tandem master cylinders are very difficult to bleed. They will
retain air quite easily. The best procedure is to bench bleed the
cylinder but you can do something similar with the master cylinder in
the car. You will need to make some outlet tubes that are short
versions of the normal outlets, maybe 2 or 3 cm. long tubing. To these
short pieces of metal tubing attach pieces of clear plastic tubing and
route them into the fluid reservoir. The ends of these tubes should
almost reach the bottom of the reservoir. With all this assembled pump
the pedal slowly until all of the air bubbles disappears from the
tubes. This can take a long time so be patient.

When your sure the master cylinder is free of air reconnect the brake
lines and bleed the system. The order you have listed appears correct.

Good luck,

Cheers,

Kelley

On 15 Mar 2007 09:30:21 -0700, angelon.RemoveThis@absa.co.za wrote:

>Just to add to what i said previously, so as not to waste too much of
>your time.
>I did remove the switch from the master when bleeding. The plastic
>thread is slightly stripped, but sitch sits in place when screwed back
>in.
>I bleed them in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far Front,
>Near Front.
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Chris Bolus

External


Since: Feb 16, 2007
Posts: 17



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:55 pm
Post subject: Re: Brake problem - Master cylinder? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
On 15 Mar 2007 09:02:01 -0700, angelon DeleteThis @absa.co.za wrote:

>Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages
>although I believe the cause has been changing.
>My 1275HLE Clubman 1982 has a tandem type master cylinder with a front/
>back split. What Haynes calls "Later" version.
>
>Symptom: pedal goes all the way to the floor the first time. Even
>pumping once raises the pedal height giving me good brakes once only.
>
>Each time after bleeding (done this countless times with auto kit and
>manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up but
>eventually fades after few brake tests.
>
>I had leaks at some wheels but have fixed this by replacing most
>cylinders.
>I had the carpet leak and bought a master cylinder kit but was only
>able to replace the main seals.
>I was not able to remove the smaller piston where Haynes simply says
>remove big hexagonal screw and take out piston.
>I removed the screw, but the piston wouldn't come out. Could it be
>siezed or is there some trick. I didn't see any "stop pin" like the
>one on the main.
>Could this be my problem or am I barking up the wrong tree?
>
>Pleeaaaase help me someone.
>
>Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982)


A little trick you might like to try; it's worked for me. Pump the brake
pedal until it's as hard as you can get it, then use a block of wood or
similar to wedge it down overnight. It costs nothing and can't hurt to
try!
Seems it forces the air to the highest point, ie the master cylinder
reservoir.
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1979 Ford Capri---
-----1957 Standard 8--------1972 Mini Clubman estate-----
-----1966 Triumph Herald Estate----1965 Hillman Minx-----
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Anthony

External


Since: Dec 19, 2006
Posts: 3



(Msg. 5) Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 3:56 pm
Post subject: Re: Brake problem - Master cylinder? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
angelon RemoveThis @absa.co.za wrote:
> Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages
> although I believe the cause has been changing.
> My 1275HLE Clubman 1982 has a tandem type master cylinder with a front/
> back split. What Haynes calls "Later" version.
>
> Symptom: pedal goes all the way to the floor the first time. Even
> pumping once raises the pedal height giving me good brakes once only.
>
> Each time after bleeding (done this countless times with auto kit and
> manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up but
> eventually fades after few brake tests.
>

One other thing to check as that your drum brakes are adjusted properly
as this will affect pedal travel. You might also want to look over the
calipers on the front brakes (assuming you have them), I have had rust
on the anti squeal shims that have caused similar problems to that
described.

-anthony
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an_old_friend

External


Since: Feb 13, 2007
Posts: 4



(Msg. 6) Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:43 pm
Post subject: only in your dreams woger [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>homosexual, others (more info?)
On Mar 23, 12:47 pm, "an_old_fiend" <m....RemoveThis@morgan.com> wrote:
> <r....RemoveThis@swollen.com> wrote in message
>
> news:0doLh.10944$jx3.7255@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...> Chris Bolus wrote:
>
> >> A little trick you might like to try; it's worked for me. Pump your
> >> ass until it's as hard as you can get it, then use a block of wood or
> >> similar to wedge it right up your colon. It costs nothing and can't hurt
> >> to
> >> try!
> >> Seems it forces the gas to the highest point, ie the masterbation
> >> is fantastic.
>
> indeed
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
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frank133

External


Since: Jan 25, 2007
Posts: 1



(Msg. 7) Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 5:26 am
Post subject: Re: Brake problem - Master cylinder? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>mini (more info?)
hi agree with all the replies you have but would think a new master
cylinder is in order if non of those things work i dont have a lot of
faith in the seal kit hard to tell if the bore is spot on hope you
sort i

"angelon" wrote
> Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for
> ages
> although I believe the cause has been changing.
> My 1275HLE Clubman 1982 has a tandem type master cylinder with
> a front/
> back split. What Haynes calls "Later" version.
>
> Symptom: pedal goes all the way to the floor the first time.
> Even
> pumping once raises the pedal height giving me good brakes
> once only.
>
> Each time after bleeding (done this countless times with auto
> kit and
> manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up
> but
> eventually fades after few brake tests.
>
> I had leaks at some wheels but have fixed this by replacing
> most
> cylinders.
> I had the carpet leak and bought a master cylinder kit but was
> only
> able to replace the main seals.
> I was not able to remove the smaller piston where Haynes
> simply says
> remove big hexagonal screw and take out piston.
> I removed the screw, but the piston wouldn't come out. Could
> it be
> siezed or is there some trick. I didn't see any "stop pin"
> like the
> one on the main.
> Could this be my problem or am I barking up the wrong tree?
>
> Pleeaaaase help me someone.
>
> Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982)

--
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Thread archive: http://www.AutoBoardz.com/Brake-problem-Master-cylinder-ftopict209074.html
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Rob94

External


Since: Oct 06, 2004
Posts: 108



(Msg. 8) Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 8:55 pm
Post subject: Re: Brake problem - Master cylinder? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
frank133 wrote:

> hi agree with all the replies you have but would think a new master
> cylinder is in order if non of those things work i dont have a lot of
> faith in the seal kit hard to tell if the bore is spot on hope you
> sort it
>


As has been suggested check the adjustments in the rear brakes or get a
new set of drums.

Not a new M/C.

rm
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