Avanti not starting Gas flood

On Feb 10, 11:43 am, Ramon Richie <rrric....DeleteThis@spcn.removeme.nl> wrote:
> On 2008-02-10 00:21:00 +0100, KOOL R2 <ps....DeleteThis@cogeco.ca> said:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 9, 2:39 pm, Ramon Richie <rrric....DeleteThis@spcn.removeme.nl> wrote:
> >> On 2008-02-09 15:40:16 +0100, keith_kichef....DeleteThis@wed.dresser.com said:
>
> >>> A couple more things to think about:
> >>> Is that gasoline pooling in the manifold?  (Water or diesel fuel,
> >>> won't ignite)
>
> >>> On my '64 I sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear.  I had
> >>> spark, but not at the right time.  It wouldn't run, but gave lots of
> >>> flames and backfires out the carb.
>
> >>> On the same car, but at a different time, I found my carburetor floats
> >>> had corroded and were filling up, making them heavy.
>
> >> Well sure smells like gasoline.  Timing light indicates ignition at 4
> >> degrees (as per manual) normally I have it more advanced, but I
> >> retarded it a little, cause the engine is supposed to start easier.
>
> >> Floats are still good, I tested them.
>
> >> I think this started a while back when I rebuilt the carb, cause the
> >> needles at that time were all gooey like and kept sticking.  I'd have
> >> to hit the carb for the car to start to unseat the needles.    Anyways
>
> >> when rebuilding the carb at that time, I adjusted the floats, cause
> >> they were way of spec.  At the time I thought it was cause the
> >> needle/seat where different length than the original ones.  Anyways the
> >> car would keep getting harder to start after short runs and last time I
> >> managed to get it back in the garage by high idling and seeing how a
> >> "shower" of fuel was present in the venturi.
>
> >> Thinking back, maybe I shouldn't have adjusted the float level and the
> >> last person who rebuilt the carb had them set low for a reason.  
> >> Probably I need leaner jet/needle...   Funny as I write this I remember
> >> in the old situation the Avanti, when racing full throttle you'd get a
> >> vrooaaam and then a little less power and then a vrooooam again, like a
> >> true V8 and this cycle continued.  If the gas level was too low, this
> >> would occur I guess and every time the fuel pump delivers you'd get a
> >> shot of V8 power.
>
> >> Well hope to continue tommorrow.
>
> > I think that your problem is the "dual" ballast resistor that is used
> > in the Chrysler conversion. When they fail the engine will try to fire
> > when the starter is engaged but will not run. Install a new ballast
> > resistor,correctly wired of course, and try it again with the timing
> > close to 4 degrees advanced
>
> > Peter Sant
> > KOOL R2
>
> What do mean with the "dual" ballast resistor (in that there are two?)  
> I've just got one in there 1,5 ohms.
>
> Anyways the RQ393 is up and running again. Yesterday I went home a
> little dissapointed after the adjusting floats, spark cleaning, airing,
> oiling excercise. It did help in that there wasn't all that fuel being
> dumped in the engine anymore....
> This morning I decided to grab the old 9V coil, I wired it up
> temporarily, and flicked the ignition, vroaaammm.  It shut of again,
> but that was good news!  So I reconnected all the choke linkage,
> accelator pump, reconnected the fuel line and yes... a few false
> starts, there was the sound again.   Let it run for a couple of
> minutes.   So I drive the car out of the garage, and want to reconnect
> the 12V Coil, to see if it would start on that one as well, guess what,
> it had a huge crack in it!  So took that out and fitted the 9V coil in
> with resistor.  Happy to have found that, I mean you look at it all the
> time while checking the wiring etc, but just didn't notice it before!
>
> So conclusion would be the floats were indeed a little too high and
> besides that the coil was broken/weak.  Because now when idling there
> isn't a "shower"  going down the venturi anymore, like was happening a
> few months ago when I last put the avanti in the garage.
>
> I think it broke on our way back from Switzerland, was a long drive
> about 12 hours, and very hot outside and here in europe we drive about
> 70 / 80 mph.
>
> Ah well.  I rewarded the RQ393 with a nice washover and a waxing.  
> Still have some work to do for the European Studebaker meet in Sweden,  
> (a dragging brake), but glas this hurdle was taken!
>
> Thanks for all the input, without I probably would have thought of
> trying the 9V coil.  The broken one by the way was a FlameThrower
> that's supposed to work on a 12 volt system without a resistor, but
> seeing how it cracked I somehow doubt that.
>
> Gr. Ramon

Sounds like a fluke failure, not misapplication. There's nothing
intrinsically wrong with using an internal resistance coil, so long as
you are using the right one for your application (Pertronix makes two,
with two different resistance values - 1.5 and 3 ohm, IIRC - I don't
recall which one would be correct for your app.) I simply *prefer*
the stock-style setup for a hotter spark when starting.

Anyway, glad to hear you've got it back up and running, and get those
brakes fixed so you can drive it some more.

nate

On 2008-02-10 00:21:00 +0100, KOOL R2 <psant.RemoveThis@cogeco.ca> said:

> On Feb 9, 2:39 pm, Ramon Richie <rrric....RemoveThis@spcn.removeme.nl> wrote:
>> On 2008-02-09 15:40:16 +0100, keith_kichef....RemoveThis@wed.dresser.com said:
>>
>>> A couple more things to think about:
>>> Is that gasoline pooling in the manifold?  (Water or diesel fuel,
>>> won't ignite)
>>
>>> On my '64 I sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear.  I had
>>> spark, but not at the right time.  It wouldn't run, but gave lots of
>>> flames and backfires out the carb.
>>
>>> On the same car, but at a different time, I found my carburetor floats
>>> had corroded and were filling up, making them heavy.
>>
>> Well sure smells like gasoline.  Timing light indicates ignition at 4
>> degrees (as per manual) normally I have it more advanced, but I
>> retarded it a little, cause the engine is supposed to start easier.
>>
>> Floats are still good, I tested them.
>>
>> I think this started a while back when I rebuilt the carb, cause the
>> needles at that time were all gooey like and kept sticking.  I'd have
>> to hit the carb for the car to start to unseat the needles.    Anyways
>
>> when rebuilding the carb at that time, I adjusted the floats, cause
>> they were way of spec.  At the time I thought it was cause the
>> needle/seat where different length than the original ones.  Anyways the
>> car would keep getting harder to start after short runs and last time I
>> managed to get it back in the garage by high idling and seeing how a
>> "shower" of fuel was present in the venturi.
>>
>> Thinking back, maybe I shouldn't have adjusted the float level and the
>> last person who rebuilt the carb had them set low for a reason.  
>> Probably I need leaner jet/needle...   Funny as I write this I remember
>> in the old situation the Avanti, when racing full throttle you'd get a
>> vrooaaam and then a little less power and then a vrooooam again, like a
>> true V8 and this cycle continued.  If the gas level was too low, this
>> would occur I guess and every time the fuel pump delivers you'd get a
>> shot of V8 power.
>>
>> Well hope to continue tommorrow.
>
> I think that your problem is the "dual" ballast resistor that is used
> in the Chrysler conversion. When they fail the engine will try to fire
> when the starter is engaged but will not run. Install a new ballast
> resistor,correctly wired of course, and try it again with the timing
> close to 4 degrees advanced
>
> Peter Sant
> KOOL R2
What do mean with the "dual" ballast resistor (in that there are two?)
I've just got one in there 1,5 ohms.

Anyways the RQ393 is up and running again. Yesterday I went home a
little dissapointed after the adjusting floats, spark cleaning, airing,
oiling excercise. It did help in that there wasn't all that fuel being
dumped in the engine anymore....
This morning I decided to grab the old 9V coil, I wired it up
temporarily, and flicked the ignition, vroaaammm. It shut of again,
but that was good news! So I reconnected all the choke linkage,
accelator pump, reconnected the fuel line and yes... a few false
starts, there was the sound again. Let it run for a couple of
minutes. So I drive the car out of the garage, and want to reconnect
the 12V Coil, to see if it would start on that one as well, guess what,
it had a huge crack in it! So took that out and fitted the 9V coil in
with resistor. Happy to have found that, I mean you look at it all the
time while checking the wiring etc, but just didn't notice it before!

So conclusion would be the floats were indeed a little too high and
besides that the coil was broken/weak. Because now when idling there
isn't a "shower" going down the venturi anymore, like was happening a
few months ago when I last put the avanti in the garage.

I think it broke on our way back from Switzerland, was a long drive
about 12 hours, and very hot outside and here in europe we drive about
70 / 80 mph.

Ah well. I rewarded the RQ393 with a nice washover and a waxing.
Still have some work to do for the European Studebaker meet in Sweden,
(a dragging brake), but glas this hurdle was taken!

Thanks for all the input, without I probably would have thought of
trying the 9V coil. The broken one by the way was a FlameThrower
that's supposed to work on a 12 volt system without a resistor, but
seeing how it cracked I somehow doubt that.

Gr. Ramon