Avanti not starting Gas flood

Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas

Google it:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

On 2008-02-08 23:40:50 +0100, studegary <studegary.RemoveThis@aol.com> said:
>
> It sounds like too much fuel pressure. Are you using an electric fuel pump?

Nope, the original mechanical one. I also thought maybe the return
line is clogged, so I've disconnected the return hose and added a
piece into a jerrycan beside the car. Gas does come out as expected.
(had to put the jerrycan a little higher (otherwise the gas just keeps
flowing). I blew the line clean to the gastank itself, so that
shouldn't be a problem anymore.
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

On 2008-02-08 23:56:38 +0100, WayneC <WayneC DeleteThis @linkline.moc> said:

> Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
> tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas
>
> Google it:
>
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
> http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta

Nope,
>
not really. Thanks for the links, either I missed something during the
rebuild or float level is indeed to high as stated by one the articles,
it's set to spec, but he states that is too high sometimes. What I can
do is just lower it a little and see what happens.
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

WayneC wrote:
> Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
> tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas
>
> Google it:
>
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
> http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta
>

Wait a second... You set the floats to factory spec? I seem to recall
that with the funky stuff sold as gas these days you have to set the
float differently (higher) because todays fuel is less dense and if the
float is set at the factory level the engine can flood.

Also, are you sure the floats themselves are good? I saw that you
tested them when you put the carb together but perhaps one of them has a
slow enough leak that it passed the test but then sank.

Jeff DeWitt
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

>WayneC wrote:
>> Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
>> tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas
>>
>> Google it:
>>
>> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
>> http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta
>>
>
>Wait a second... You set the floats to factory spec? I seem to recall
>that with the funky stuff sold as gas these days you have to set the
>float differently (higher) because todays fuel is less dense and if the
>float is set at the factory level the engine can flood.
>
>Also, are you sure the floats themselves are good? I saw that you
>tested them when you put the carb together but perhaps one of them has a
>slow enough leak that it passed the test but then sank.
>
>Jeff DeWitt

Jeff, you want to set the floats a tad LOWER, not higher. Since the fuel of today is less
dense, the float floats lower in it. Which means you have to bend the tang of the float so
that it properly closes the inlet valve WHEN IN THAT LOWER POSITION.

Ramon: Whe you speak of the engine "kicking back" a little when the ignition key is shut
off, and firing only on #1 cylinder, it makes me wonder if the gap on the ignition points
is so small (almost non-existent) that they only open on the "best" cam lobe?

If you have converted your distributor to an electronic trigger device, perhaps it is
mis-adjusted, or mis-wired.

Also take note that bad flooding will have washed the oil out of the piston rings, and the
eninge won't be making much compression. That prevents it from firing, and induces more
flooding.

My suggestion: remove all the spark plugs and blow them dry. If carbon or oil fouled,
clean them well or replace them. Avoid using a wire brush on the plugs.

Check your dwell or point gap, or the adjustment of the trigger device. Lay all 8 spark
plugsout on the valve covers, and also hook up a timing light. Crank the engine, and make
sure you get a nice blue spark at each plug, and that #1 plug fires at the proper time.

Crank the engine over (plugs out) with the coil primary wire disconnected to clear the
cylinders. Then use an oilcan to squirt a few shots of motor oil into each cylinder. Crank
it over a turn or two to distribute the oil. Then install and connect all the plugs, and
restore the coil connection. If you have reason to believe the carb is flooding,
disconnect the line from the fuel pump, and either plug it securely or put a hose on it
and direct it into a pail on the ground.

Now start the car. If the carb bowl was full of fuel, it should start and run for a few
seconds at least. That will clear any vestiges of flooding. Also, it will allow the float
to drop to the bottom of its travel range. Re-connect the fuel line, and try again. It
should start after a couple of revoutions, once it gets a slug or two of fuel from the
pump. If there was a piece of debris holding the float needle off the seat, the surge of
fuel from the pump, with the float at full drop, may flush it away, solving your problem,
at least for the time being.

Gord Richmond
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

Adjust the choke so it is not working at all. Then hold the gas pedal all
the way down as you crank the engine. This will give you no vacuum at all.
After cranking for 5 or 10 seconds, look down the carb again with the
flashlight. If there is gas pooling now, you know that it is a carb problem
and not an ignition problem.




"Ramon Richie" <rrrichie.TakeThisOut@spcn.removeme.nl> wrote in message
news:2008020820561916807-rrrichie@spcnremovemenl...
> Hi everybody,
> I have a strange problem, can't put my finger on it, but can certainly in
> it! Our Avanti was getting harder to start over time and now I just can't
> get it to run.
>
> After cranking a couple of times there is a sh*t load of gas in the
> intake manifold, looks like a bath in there.
>
> I've taken the carb (Carter AFB 3506S) apart replaced everything with a
> rebuilt kit, set floats to levels as specified per manual. I connect a
> suringe to the gas in line and filled the carb with gas and as expected
> when the floats comes up, i get a some back pressure as the needles close
> and can't add any more gas.
>
> But back on the 289 it almost started, but alas, after cranking some more
> I looked with a flash down the venturi and alas a bath of gas again.
>
> Before I put the car in the garage (a few months ago) it would stall when
> idling, and if I got it running at a slightly higher rpm you could see a
> shower of gas coming from the main jets. I know the V8 likes gas, but
> this was abnormal, at least I hadn't seen such a "shower" of gas go in
> there before.
>
> I have no idea how so much gas can get "sucked" into the engine. I've
> looked for cracks and gasket leaks, but i looks fine. It just seems the
> engine is somehow creating a huge amount of vacuum... Right now I'm thing
> about buying a new carburetor, but I'm not sure it will solve the problem.
> When connecting a timing light I get flashes and all. As some last resort
> measures, I've set the timing back to 0 degrees in the hope it would
> start easier, and it does give a shot at, but strangely only when cylinder
> one fires. But that might all be because the other cylinders are soaked
> with gas now.
>
> Any ideas anyone?
>
> Greetings Ramon
> Avanti R1 1245 RQ-393, 1963.
> The Netherlands
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

On 2008-02-09 05:40:38 +0100, Gordon Richmond <richmond.RemoveThis@telusplanet.net> said:

>> WayneC wrote:
>>> Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
>>> tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas
>>>
>>> Google it:
>>>
>>> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
>>> http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta

Wait
>>>
>> a second... You set the floats to factory spec? I seem to recall that
>> with the funky stuff sold as gas these days you have to set the float
>> differently (higher) because todays fuel is less dense and if the float
>> is set at the factory level the engine can flood.
>>
>> Also, are you sure the floats themselves are good? I saw that you
>> tested them when you put the carb together but perhaps one of them has
>> a slow enough leak that it passed the test but then sank.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Jeff, you want to set the floats a tad LOWER, not higher. Since the
> fuel of today is less
> dense, the float floats lower in it. Which means you have to bend the
> tang of the float so
> that it properly closes the inlet valve WHEN IN THAT LOWER POSITION.
>
> Ramon: Whe you speak of the engine "kicking back" a little when the
> ignition key is shut
> off, and firing only on #1 cylinder, it makes me wonder if the gap on
> the ignition points
> is so small (almost non-existent) that they only open on the "best" cam lobe?
>
> If you have converted your distributor to an electronic trigger device,
> perhaps it is
> mis-adjusted, or mis-wired.
>
> Also take note that bad flooding will have washed the oil out of the
> piston rings, and the
> eninge won't be making much compression. That prevents it from firing,
> and induces more
> flooding.
>
> My suggestion: remove all the spark plugs and blow them dry. If carbon
> or oil fouled,
> clean them well or replace them. Avoid using a wire brush on the plugs.
>
> Check your dwell or point gap, or the adjustment of the trigger device.
> Lay all 8 spark
> plugsout on the valve covers, and also hook up a timing light. Crank
> the engine, and make
> sure you get a nice blue spark at each plug, and that #1 plug fires at
> the proper time.
>
> Crank the engine over (plugs out) with the coil primary wire
> disconnected to clear the
> cylinders. Then use an oilcan to squirt a few shots of motor oil into
> each cylinder. Crank
> it over a turn or two to distribute the oil. Then install and connect
> all the plugs, and
> restore the coil connection. If you have reason to believe the carb is
> flooding,
> disconnect the line from the fuel pump, and either plug it securely or
> put a hose on it
> and direct it into a pail on the ground.
>
> Now start the car. If the carb bowl was full of fuel, it should start
> and run for a few
> seconds at least. That will clear any vestiges of flooding. Also, it
> will allow the float
> to drop to the bottom of its travel range. Re-connect the fuel line,
> and try again. It
> should start after a couple of revoutions, once it gets a slug or two
> of fuel from the
> pump. If there was a piece of debris holding the float needle off the
> seat, the surge of
> fuel from the pump, with the float at full drop, may flush it away,
> solving your problem,
> at least for the time being.
>
> Gord Richmond

Thanx for all the tips. I indeed think it's time to clean the engine
out so speak, there must be a lot gas in there now and oil washed away,
an oil change would be good soon too. I'll set the floats "lower" as
well to compensate for that concoction they call gas nowadays.
Well time for breakfast now... can't wait to fire up the Avanti again,
the sun is shining and it's needs to be let out. Although patience is
needed today

Ramon
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

A couple more things to think about:
Is that gasoline pooling in the manifold? (Water or diesel fuel,
won't ignite)

On my '64 I sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear. I had
spark, but not at the right time. It wouldn't run, but gave lots of
flames and backfires out the carb.

On the same car, but at a different time, I found my carburetor floats
had corroded and were filling up, making them heavy.
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

On Feb 9, 2:39 pm, Ramon Richie <rrric... RemoveThis @spcn.removeme.nl> wrote:
> On 2008-02-09 15:40:16 +0100, keith_kichef... RemoveThis @wed.dresser.com said:
>
> > A couple more things to think about:
> > Is that gasoline pooling in the manifold?  (Water or diesel fuel,
> > won't ignite)
>
> > On my '64 I sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear.  I had
> > spark, but not at the right time.  It wouldn't run, but gave lots of
> > flames and backfires out the carb.
>
> > On the same car, but at a different time, I found my carburetor floats
> > had corroded and were filling up, making them heavy.
>
> Well sure smells like gasoline.  Timing light indicates ignition at 4
> degrees (as per manual) normally I have it more advanced, but I
> retarded it a little, cause the engine is supposed to start easier.
>
> Floats are still good, I tested them.
>
> I think this started a while back when I rebuilt the carb, cause the
> needles at that time were all gooey like and kept sticking.  I'd have
> to hit the carb for the car to start to unseat the needles.    Anyways
> when rebuilding the carb at that time, I adjusted the floats, cause
> they were way of spec.  At the time I thought it was cause the
> needle/seat where different length than the original ones.  Anyways the
> car would keep getting harder to start after short runs and last time I
> managed to get it back in the garage by high idling and seeing how a
> "shower" of fuel was present in the venturi.
>
> Thinking back, maybe I shouldn't have adjusted the float level and the
> last person who rebuilt the carb had them set low for a reason.  
> Probably I need leaner jet/needle...   Funny as I write this I remember
> in the old situation the Avanti, when racing full throttle you'd get a
> vrooaaam and then a little less power and then a vrooooam again, like a
> true V8 and this cycle continued.  If the gas level was too low, this
> would occur I guess and every time the fuel pump delivers you'd get a
> shot of V8 power.
>
> Well hope to continue tommorrow.

I think that your problem is the "dual" ballast resistor that is used
in the Chrysler conversion. When they fail the engine will try to fire
when the starter is engaged but will not run. Install a new ballast
resistor,correctly wired of course, and try it again with the timing
close to 4 degrees advanced

Peter Sant
KOOL R2
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

Gordon Richmond wrote:

>>WayneC wrote:
>>
>>>Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
>>>tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas
>>>
>>>Google it:
>>>
>>>http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
>>>http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-anyone-installed-4v.html
>>>
>>
>>Wait a second... You set the floats to factory spec? I seem to recall
>>that with the funky stuff sold as gas these days you have to set the
>>float differently (higher) because todays fuel is less dense and if the
>>float is set at the factory level the engine can flood.
>>
>>Also, are you sure the floats themselves are good? I saw that you
>>tested them when you put the carb together but perhaps one of them has a
>>slow enough leak that it passed the test but then sank.
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt
>
>
> Jeff, you want to set the floats a tad LOWER, not higher. Since the fuel of today is less
> dense, the float floats lower in it. Which means you have to bend the tang of the float so
> that it properly closes the inlet valve WHEN IN THAT LOWER POSITION.
>
> Ramon: Whe you speak of the engine "kicking back" a little when the ignition key is shut
> off, and firing only on #1 cylinder, it makes me wonder if the gap on the ignition points
> is so small (almost non-existent) that they only open on the "best" cam lobe?
>
> If you have converted your distributor to an electronic trigger device, perhaps it is
> mis-adjusted, or mis-wired.
>
> Also take note that bad flooding will have washed the oil out of the piston rings, and the
> eninge won't be making much compression. That prevents it from firing, and induces more
> flooding.
>
> My suggestion: remove all the spark plugs and blow them dry. If carbon or oil fouled,
> clean them well or replace them. Avoid using a wire brush on the plugs.
>
> Check your dwell or point gap, or the adjustment of the trigger device. Lay all 8 spark
> plugsout on the valve covers, and also hook up a timing light. Crank the engine, and make
> sure you get a nice blue spark at each plug, and that #1 plug fires at the proper time.
>
> Crank the engine over (plugs out) with the coil primary wire disconnected to clear the
> cylinders. Then use an oilcan to squirt a few shots of motor oil into each cylinder. Crank
> it over a turn or two to distribute the oil. Then install and connect all the plugs, and
> restore the coil connection. If you have reason to believe the carb is flooding,
> disconnect the line from the fuel pump, and either plug it securely or put a hose on it
> and direct it into a pail on the ground.
>
> Now start the car. If the carb bowl was full of fuel, it should start and run for a few
> seconds at least. That will clear any vestiges of flooding. Also, it will allow the float
> to drop to the bottom of its travel range. Re-connect the fuel line, and try again. It
> should start after a couple of revoutions, once it gets a slug or two of fuel from the
> pump. If there was a piece of debris holding the float needle off the seat, the surge of
> fuel from the pump, with the float at full drop, may flush it away, solving your problem,
> at least for the time being.
>
> Gord Richmond
>


That brings to mind that I used to have an occasional flooding problem
back when I first owned the Power Hawk (back in 1966). The solution
there was installing an in-line fuel filter.

JT
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

On 2008-02-09 05:40:38 +0100, Gordon Richmond <richmond.TakeThisOut@telusplanet.net> said:

>> WayneC wrote:
>>> Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like perhaps the
>>> tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into the gas
>>>
>>> Google it:
>>>
>>> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
>>> http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta

Wait
>>>
>> a second... You set the floats to factory spec? I seem to recall that
>> with the funky stuff sold as gas these days you have to set the float
>> differently (higher) because todays fuel is less dense and if the float
>> is set at the factory level the engine can flood.
>>
>> Also, are you sure the floats themselves are good? I saw that you
>> tested them when you put the carb together but perhaps one of them has
>> a slow enough leak that it passed the test but then sank.
>>
>> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Jeff, you want to set the floats a tad LOWER, not higher. Since the
> fuel of today is less
> dense, the float floats lower in it. Which means you have to bend the
> tang of the float so
> that it properly closes the inlet valve WHEN IN THAT LOWER POSITION.
>
> Ramon: Whe you speak of the engine "kicking back" a little when the
> ignition key is shut
> off, and firing only on #1 cylinder, it makes me wonder if the gap on
> the ignition points
> is so small (almost non-existent) that they only open on the "best" cam lobe?
>
> If you have converted your distributor to an electronic trigger device,
> perhaps it is
> mis-adjusted, or mis-wired.
>
> Also take note that bad flooding will have washed the oil out of the
> piston rings, and the
> eninge won't be making much compression. That prevents it from firing,
> and induces more
> flooding.
>
> My suggestion: remove all the spark plugs and blow them dry. If carbon
> or oil fouled,
> clean them well or replace them. Avoid using a wire brush on the plugs.
>
> Check your dwell or point gap, or the adjustment of the trigger device.
> Lay all 8 spark
> plugsout on the valve covers, and also hook up a timing light. Crank
> the engine, and make
> sure you get a nice blue spark at each plug, and that #1 plug fires at
> the proper time.
>
> Crank the engine over (plugs out) with the coil primary wire
> disconnected to clear the
> cylinders. Then use an oilcan to squirt a few shots of motor oil into
> each cylinder. Crank
> it over a turn or two to distribute the oil. Then install and connect
> all the plugs, and
> restore the coil connection. If you have reason to believe the carb is
> flooding,
> disconnect the line from the fuel pump, and either plug it securely or
> put a hose on it
> and direct it into a pail on the ground.
>
> Now start the car. If the carb bowl was full of fuel, it should start
> and run for a few
> seconds at least. That will clear any vestiges of flooding. Also, it
> will allow the float
> to drop to the bottom of its travel range. Re-connect the fuel line,
> and try again. It
> should start after a couple of revoutions, once it gets a slug or two
> of fuel from the
> pump. If there was a piece of debris holding the float needle off the
> seat, the surge of
> fuel from the pump, with the float at full drop, may flush it away,
> solving your problem,
> at least for the time being.
>
> Gord Richmond

Well took out all the plugs, there were soaked with fuel, cleaned the
plugs, blew the cylinders clean with compressed air, put a little oil
in, cranked and reconnected all. Also lowered the floats a tad.
Disconnect fuel pump to dump fuel in a canister. Almost got it running.
There was still too much gas, but less than before.

I'm wondering if anyone knows what the correct level (height) of fuel
should be when the floats seats the needle. It was pretty high indeed
about 3/4 of the height of the bowl itself.

Well, I'll go through the same steps tommorrow and lower the floats a
tad more. Maybe I'll just put in some new spark plugs, that should
help a little.

Will keep you posted Ramon
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

On 2008-02-09 15:40:16 +0100, keith_kichefski.TakeThisOut@wed.dresser.com said:

> A couple more things to think about:
> Is that gasoline pooling in the manifold? (Water or diesel fuel,
> won't ignite)
>
> On my '64 I sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear. I had
> spark, but not at the right time. It wouldn't run, but gave lots of
> flames and backfires out the carb.
>
> On the same car, but at a different time, I found my carburetor floats
> had corroded and were filling up, making them heavy.

Well sure smells like gasoline. Timing light indicates ignition at 4
degrees (as per manual) normally I have it more advanced, but I
retarded it a little, cause the engine is supposed to start easier.

Floats are still good, I tested them.

I think this started a while back when I rebuilt the carb, cause the
needles at that time were all gooey like and kept sticking. I'd have
to hit the carb for the car to start to unseat the needles. Anyways
when rebuilding the carb at that time, I adjusted the floats, cause
they were way of spec. At the time I thought it was cause the
needle/seat where different length than the original ones. Anyways the
car would keep getting harder to start after short runs and last time I
managed to get it back in the garage by high idling and seeing how a
"shower" of fuel was present in the venturi.

Thinking back, maybe I shouldn't have adjusted the float level and the
last person who rebuilt the carb had them set low for a reason.
Probably I need leaner jet/needle... Funny as I write this I remember
in the old situation the Avanti, when racing full throttle you'd get a
vrooaaam and then a little less power and then a vrooooam again, like a
true V8 and this cycle continued. If the gas level was too low, this
would occur I guess and every time the fuel pump delivers you'd get a
shot of V8 power.

Well hope to continue tommorrow.
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood 

Ramon Richie wrote:
> On 2008-02-09 05:40:38 +0100, Gordon Richmond <richmond DeleteThis @telusplanet.net>
> said:
>
>>> WayneC wrote:
>>>> Did you find any junk in the carb when you rebuilt it... like
>>>> perhaps the
>>>> tank or lines are rusting internally and particles are getting into
>>>> the gas
>>>>
>>>> Google it:
>>>>
>>>> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608191040AA6Liju&show=7
>>>>
>>>> http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/70661-carter-afb-an...e-insta
>>>>
>
> Wait
>>>>
>>> a second... You set the floats to factory spec? I seem to recall
>>> that with the funky stuff sold as gas these days you have to set the
>>> float differently (higher) because todays fuel is less dense and if
>>> the float is set at the factory level the engine can flood.
>>>
>>> Also, are you sure the floats themselves are good? I saw that you
>>> tested them when you put the carb together but perhaps one of them
>>> has a slow enough leak that it passed the test but then sank.
>>>
>>> Jeff DeWitt
>>
>> Jeff, you want to set the floats a tad LOWER, not higher. Since the
>> fuel of today is less
>> dense, the float floats lower in it. Which means you have to bend the
>> tang of the float so
>> that it properly closes the inlet valve WHEN IN THAT LOWER POSITION.
>>
>> Ramon: Whe you speak of the engine "kicking back" a little when the
>> ignition key is shut
>> off, and firing only on #1 cylinder, it makes me wonder if the gap on
>> the ignition points
>> is so small (almost non-existent) that they only open on the "best"
>> cam lobe?
>>
>> If you have converted your distributor to an electronic trigger
>> device, perhaps it is
>> mis-adjusted, or mis-wired.
>>
>> Also take note that bad flooding will have washed the oil out of the
>> piston rings, and the
>> eninge won't be making much compression. That prevents it from firing,
>> and induces more
>> flooding.
>>
>> My suggestion: remove all the spark plugs and blow them dry. If carbon
>> or oil fouled,
>> clean them well or replace them. Avoid using a wire brush on the plugs.
>>
>> Check your dwell or point gap, or the adjustment of the trigger
>> device. Lay all 8 spark
>> plugsout on the valve covers, and also hook up a timing light. Crank
>> the engine, and make
>> sure you get a nice blue spark at each plug, and that #1 plug fires at
>> the proper time.
>>
>> Crank the engine over (plugs out) with the coil primary wire
>> disconnected to clear the
>> cylinders. Then use an oilcan to squirt a few shots of motor oil into
>> each cylinder. Crank
>> it over a turn or two to distribute the oil. Then install and connect
>> all the plugs, and
>> restore the coil connection. If you have reason to believe the carb is
>> flooding,
>> disconnect the line from the fuel pump, and either plug it securely or
>> put a hose on it
>> and direct it into a pail on the ground.
>>
>> Now start the car. If the carb bowl was full of fuel, it should start
>> and run for a few
>> seconds at least. That will clear any vestiges of flooding. Also, it
>> will allow the float
>> to drop to the bottom of its travel range. Re-connect the fuel line,
>> and try again. It
>> should start after a couple of revoutions, once it gets a slug or two
>> of fuel from the
>> pump. If there was a piece of debris holding the float needle off the
>> seat, the surge of
>> fuel from the pump, with the float at full drop, may flush it away,
>> solving your problem,
>> at least for the time being.
>>
>> Gord Richmond
>
> Well took out all the plugs, there were soaked with fuel, cleaned the
> plugs, blew the cylinders clean with compressed air, put a little oil
> in, cranked and reconnected all. Also lowered the floats a tad.
> Disconnect fuel pump to dump fuel in a canister. Almost got it running.
> There was still too much gas, but less than before.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone knows what the correct level (height) of fuel
> should be when the floats seats the needle. It was pretty high indeed
> about 3/4 of the height of the bowl itself.
>
Although I don't have a Stude engine, and haven't rebuilt an AFB in a
long time,
IIRC it seems to me that usually the top of the float is flat, and it
should swing up to be
at a level position at the moment the needle seats (with the carb upside
down the
top of the float, actually at the bottom in the inverted position, is
parallel to the top & bottom
of the bowl).



> Well, I'll go through the same steps tommorrow and lower the floats a
> tad more. Maybe I'll just put in some new spark plugs, that should help
> a little.
>
> Will keep you posted Ramon
>
 >> Stay informed about: Avanti not starting Gas flood