should I give up on my Altima?

You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value of the
car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is going to
cost you more than the value of the car.


"FanJet" <FanJet27.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...

<dkaufma.TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
> and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
> oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
> point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
> shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
> a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
> when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
> Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
> good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
> winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
> to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
> with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
> periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
> in the spring.

Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the Altima
since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken care of.
Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that 1100 every
month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on the new
car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-2...ef=nosi

and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and anyone
else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're doing
no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to an easy
mark. It's really that simple.
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

G wrote:
> You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value of the
> car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is going to
> cost you more than the value of the car.
>
>
> "FanJet" <FanJet27 RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>
> <dkaufma RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
>>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
>>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
>>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
>>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
>>in the spring.
>
>
> Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the Altima
> since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken care of.
> Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that 1100 every
> month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on the new
> car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-2...ef=nosi
>
> and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
> effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and anyone
> else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're doing
> no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to an easy
> mark. It's really that simple.
>
>
>
True, but this is maintenance, not repair.

CD
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

"FanJet" <FanJet27 DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>
> <dkaufma DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>> and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>> oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
>> point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
>> shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
>> a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>> when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>> Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>> good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>> winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>> to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>> with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>> periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
>> in the spring.
>
> Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the
> Altima since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken
> care of. Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that
> 1100 every month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down
> payment on the new car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of
> these:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-2...ef=nosi
>
> and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
> effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and anyone
> else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're
> doing no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to
> an easy mark. It's really that simple.
>
>

I generally find that those who believe themselves to be the most prepared
are the ones who make the most ridiculous offers on vehicles, thinking
themselves clever and tough negotiators, when in reality they are just
foolish. You don't need a book to tell you how to get a decent deal on a
car. Follow these quick steps and you shouldn't have an issue:

1) Research the vehicle you wish to purchase online, and know the costs
involved (KBB and Edmonds are good sources. The problems with books is that
they may contain out-dated pricing information). Don't try to eliminate
things like "Destination" from the vehicle build because no matter what you
will have to pay it. And if you want something like leather, expect to pay
for it. Nothing is free, no matter what some dealers may try and tell you.
It's all part of the MSRP and the vehicle cost, so live with it if you want
that equipment. Also, be aware of all rebates to which you may be entitled,
including college grad, military, etc. It costs a dealer nothing to give
these to you, if you are eligible.

2) Get pre-approved for a loan from a bank BEFORE you go into the
dealership. At that point in time if the dealer can do something better for
you through one of the many banks with whom they work, take it. But at least
you are assuring your best situation. It just saves you money and if the
dealer can make something, even a $50 flat bank fee, instead of nothing,
they will take it.

3) What type of service will you get at the dealer? Where you buy is just as
important as what you buy and for how much. The dealer for which I work
offers free oil changes for life, among other things, and has an excellent
reputation for customer service. All things being equal (and all dealers can
sell new vehicles for the same price) wouldn't you want to be taken care of
after the sale? You are spending a great deal of money, you should buy the
dealership as much as you buy the car.

4) Watch out for add-ons. Extended Waranties are useful IN THE RIGHT
CIRCUMSTANCES. If you are only going to keep a car for three years (which is
the current average for those taking out a 60 month loan) why pay more for
something you will never use? Rust-proofing is a scam (new vehicles all come
with a corrosion through warranty, most of them fairly substantial),
although under-coating can be said to offer sound-dampening (although this
is highly dubious, I recommend against it. It voids your factory corrosion
warranty.).

GAP Protection, which you can read about on the website below, is the one
Financial add-on that I do recommend, as long as you aren't paying too much.
$200-$350 is about right, depending on the exact coverage. Anyone charging
$1000 is just too high, unless you are purchasing a very high-line product.

5) Sell your trade if you can. Your 95 ALtima is a wholesale piece to a
dealer and will pass through several hands before it's final destination,
wherever that may be. Each of those hands takes a cut. If you have the time
and patience, sell the car on your own to maximize the potential worth of
the vehicle. If you decide you must use the vehicle as a trade, just as you
would the price of a new vehicle, research the value of your trade. KBB is a
good resource to give you a general idea on value. Unless the vehicle is in
absolute stunning condition, use "FAIR" condition to get the best idea of
the value. Dealers generally use auction reports and Galves, to determine
value. But KBB is usually close, if you are honest about the condition of
the car. For example, if KBB says the "FAIR" condition value is $2000, but
you know the vehicle needs tires and an alignment, then the vehicle is not
worth $2000, it is worth $1500. If you kow the vehicle further needs work,
like stuts, the value is no longer $1500, but under $1000. That being said,
make sure you take your car into the dealership looking it's best. Clean it
up, and make it presentable. If you are asked if it needs struts, or
similar, you must, by law, give an honest answer. However, it is encumbant
upon the dealership to ask those questions, and inspect the trade.

6) Approach the transaction in a business-like fashion, but there is no
cause to be the typical rude customer. Car salespeople have an incredibly
tough job. Most work 60 hours a week, and don't make as much money as some
would have you believe. Most make under 40k per year. So make sure you do
your homework to get a good deal, but treating the salesperson with a
modicum of respect will earn you the same treatment back, making everyone's
life easier. If you want to try to be the "Great Negotiator" and are
generally unpleasant, you will never get your salesperson to go to bat for
you with the sales managers. Most salespeople will throw their hands up in
surrender and not bat for a customer that has to have that last $1.75 per
month in payment, or $50 in price when they are already scrapping the bottom
of the barely and they know they will only see a $50 flat commission.

The true art of negotiation is knowing when you have a good deal, and taking
it.

So to break it down: do your homework, negotiate in good faith, buy from
someone that will remember you as a customer after they have your money, and
be friendly. In the end you will save time, money, and aggravation.

Hope this helps.

And by the way, it is almost always cheaper to repair a decent used vehicle
rather than buy a new one. If the vehicle is in generally good shape you may
want to consider those repairs. As well, check out Factory Certified
vehicles as replacements for your Altima, as well as brand new. You can save
thousands and have a better warranty.

bringler DeleteThis @jerseynissan.com
www.jerseynissan.com
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi... RemoveThis @optonline.net> wrote:
> G wrote:
> > You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value of the
> > car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is going to
> > cost you more than the value of the car.
>
> > "FanJet" <FanJe... RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>
> > <dkau... RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
> >news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
> >>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
> >>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
> >>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
> >>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
> >>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
> >>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
> >>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
> >>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
> >>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
> >>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
> >>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
> >>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
> >>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
> >>in the spring.
>
> > Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the Altima
> > since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken care of.
> > Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that 1100 every
> > month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on the new
> > car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>
> >http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>
> > and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
> > effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and anyone
> > else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're doing
> > no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to an easy
> > mark. It's really that simple.
>
> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>
> CD

Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
and the wheels worn out?
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

<dkaufma.TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1184511830.543727.225110@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi....TakeThisOut@optonline.net> wrote:
>> G wrote:
>> > You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value of
>> > the
>> > car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is
>> > going to
>> > cost you more than the value of the car.
>>
>> > "FanJet" <FanJe....TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> >news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>>
>> > <dkau....TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> >news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> >>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>> >>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>> >>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
>> >>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
>> >>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
>> >>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>> >>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>> >>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>> >>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>> >>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>> >>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>> >>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>> >>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
>> >>in the spring.
>>
>> > Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the
>> > Altima
>> > since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken care
>> > of.
>> > Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that 1100
>> > every
>> > month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on
>> > the new
>> > car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>>
>> >http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>>
>> > and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
>> > effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and
>> > anyone
>> > else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're
>> > doing
>> > no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to an
>> > easy
>> > mark. It's really that simple.
>>
>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>>
>> CD
>
> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
> and the wheels worn out?
>

Are you thinking of the work being done on the vehicle as maintenance or
repairs? Considering the check engine light, repairs is more likely. There
comes a point of diminishing returns, and it seems as though you have hit
that mark. If you put $1500 worth of work into the vehicle, that is
essentially 3-4 payments worth of a new Altima, that you could have used for
down payment. In another 4 months, what is the likelihood that you will need
to put another 1000, or more, into your old Altima? The chances are likely.
In essence, it will cost you just slightly more for financing a newer
vehicle, without the hassle of major repairs and down time.

Hope this helps

www.jerseynissan.com
bringler.TakeThisOut@jerseynissan.com
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

"Bajori" <bajori1970 DeleteThis @cbj.com> wrote in message
news:1lLmi.111561$G_4.8364@fe09.news.easynews.com...
>
> <dkaufma DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1184511830.543727.225110@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
>> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi... DeleteThis @optonline.net> wrote:
>>> G wrote:
>>> > You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value of
>>> > the
>>> > car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is
>>> > going to
>>> > cost you more than the value of the car.
>>>
>>> > "FanJet" <FanJe... DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> >news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>>>
>>> > <dkau... DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> >news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>> >>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>>> >>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>>> >>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
>>> >>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
>>> >>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
>>> >>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>>> >>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>>> >>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>>> >>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>>> >>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>>> >>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>>> >>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>>> >>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
>>> >>in the spring.
>>>
>>> > Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the
>>> > Altima
>>> > since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken care
>>> > of.
>>> > Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that 1100
>>> > every
>>> > month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on
>>> > the new
>>> > car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>>>
>>> >http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>>>
>>> > and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
>>> > effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and
>>> > anyone
>>> > else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're
>>> > doing
>>> > no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to an
>>> > easy
>>> > mark. It's really that simple.
>>>
>>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>>>
>>> CD
>>
>> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
>> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
>> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
>> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
>> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
>> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
>> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
>> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
>> and the wheels worn out?
>>
>
> Are you thinking of the work being done on the vehicle as maintenance or
> repairs? Considering the check engine light, repairs is more likely. There
> comes a point of diminishing returns, and it seems as though you have hit
> that mark. If you put $1500 worth of work into the vehicle, that is
> essentially 3-4 payments worth of a new Altima, that you could have used
> for down payment. In another 4 months, what is the likelihood that you
> will need to put another 1000, or more, into your old Altima? The chances
> are likely. In essence, it will cost you just slightly more for financing
> a newer vehicle, without the hassle of major repairs and down time.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> www.jerseynissan.com
> bringler DeleteThis @jerseynissan.com


Taking a different direction, there are a lot of very decent, reliable older
cars out there that can be had in the $1500 price range. New does not always
mean problem free. You need to have cash in hand, and be willing to spend
some time looking through Craigslist every day, but they're out there.

3 - 6 years of car payments to avoid $1100 in car repair costs is a terrible
tradeoff in my opinion. However I would not keep pouring money into a
problem car either.

Chris
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

dkaufma DeleteThis @gmail.com wrote:
> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi... DeleteThis @optonline.net> wrote:
>
>>G wrote:
>>
>>>You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value of the
>>>car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is going to
>>>cost you more than the value of the car.
>>
>>>"FanJet" <FanJe... DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>>
>>><dkau... DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>>>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>>>>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>>>>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
>>>>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
>>>>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
>>>>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>>>>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>>>>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>>>>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>>>>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>>>>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>>>>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>>>>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
>>>>in the spring.
>>
>>>Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the Altima
>>>since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken care of.
>>>Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that 1100 every
>>>month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on the new
>>>car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>>
>>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>>
>>>and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
>>>effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and anyone
>>>else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're doing
>>>no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to an easy
>>>mark. It's really that simple.
>>
>>True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>>
>>CD
>
>
> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
> and the wheels worn out?
>
Yes, the bushings and mount parts around the spring should be replaced
as well. If they aren't, the car will still work and run fine with new
spring and older spring parts, but you may hear funny noises going over
bumps etc.

How did the springs break anyhow? I can understand worn, but broke?

CD
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

"Christopher Ott" <spamtrap at ottelectronics dot com> wrote in message
news:3tOdnaOTrtuoKQbbnZ2dnUVZ_qO3nZ2d@giganews.com...
> "Bajori" <bajori1970.TakeThisOut@cbj.com> wrote in message
> news:1lLmi.111561$G_4.8364@fe09.news.easynews.com...
>>
>> <dkaufma.TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1184511830.543727.225110@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
>>> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi....TakeThisOut@optonline.net> wrote:
>>>> G wrote:
>>>> > You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value
>>>> > of the
>>>> > car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is
>>>> > going to
>>>> > cost you more than the value of the car.
>>>>
>>>> > "FanJet" <FanJe....TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> >news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>>>>
>>>> > <dkau....TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> >news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>>>
>>>> >>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>>>> >>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>>>> >>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At
>>>> >>one
>>>> >>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car
>>>> >>was
>>>> >>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away
>>>> >>after
>>>> >>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>>>> >>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>>>> >>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>>>> >>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>>>> >>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>>>> >>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>>>> >>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>>>> >>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission
>>>> >>test
>>>> >>in the spring.
>>>>
>>>> > Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair the
>>>> > Altima
>>>> > since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken
>>>> > care of.
>>>> > Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that
>>>> > 1100 every
>>>> > month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on
>>>> > the new
>>>> > car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>>>>
>>>> >http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>>>>
>>>> > and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you
>>>> > can
>>>> > effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and
>>>> > anyone
>>>> > else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what you're
>>>> > doing
>>>> > no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to
>>>> > an easy
>>>> > mark. It's really that simple.
>>>>
>>>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>>>>
>>>> CD
>>>
>>> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
>>> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
>>> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
>>> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
>>> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
>>> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
>>> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
>>> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
>>> and the wheels worn out?
>>>
>>
>> Are you thinking of the work being done on the vehicle as maintenance or
>> repairs? Considering the check engine light, repairs is more likely.
>> There comes a point of diminishing returns, and it seems as though you
>> have hit that mark. If you put $1500 worth of work into the vehicle, that
>> is essentially 3-4 payments worth of a new Altima, that you could have
>> used for down payment. In another 4 months, what is the likelihood that
>> you will need to put another 1000, or more, into your old Altima? The
>> chances are likely. In essence, it will cost you just slightly more for
>> financing a newer vehicle, without the hassle of major repairs and down
>> time.
>>
>> Hope this helps
>>
>> www.jerseynissan.com
>> bringler.TakeThisOut@jerseynissan.com
>
>
> Taking a different direction, there are a lot of very decent, reliable
> older cars out there that can be had in the $1500 price range. New does
> not always mean problem free. You need to have cash in hand, and be
> willing to spend some time looking through Craigslist every day, but
> they're out there.
>
> 3 - 6 years of car payments to avoid $1100 in car repair costs is a
> terrible tradeoff in my opinion. However I would not keep pouring money
> into a problem car either.
>
> Chris
>
>

Generally, as I have stated previously, it is much less expensive to repair
a vehicle rather than purchase something new. You do, however, get tot he
point of diminishing returns, and need to move on. Depending on the issue
causing the check engine light, he is rapidly approaching that point on his
Altima.

You are talking about a little more than $1000 dollars of repairs right now.
Ten year old cars, on average, take about $250-$300 per month to keep
running, over the course of a year. If you don't do those things to keep the
vehicle maintained it will just result in bigger repair bills down the road.
A Certified Altima costs about $60-$75 per month to keep running,
maintenance-wise. At a minimum tha tis a swing of $175-$240 PER MONTH! That
in and of itself is a car payment. Now, does his emotional attachment to
that particular Altima justify that cost differences in maintenance. How
about the trust factor, as that Altima has clearly been great for him, and
he will still trust it more than any vehicle he is bound to purchase? Where
those two items balance in the equation will dictate his choice moving
forward.

The big thing, however, is that a 10-yr old car is in many ways much more
costly than people realize, unless the owner does nothing to maintain the
vehicle to assure a good long life.

Hope this helps

www.jerseynissan.com
bringler.TakeThisOut@jerseynissan.com



>
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

Bajori wrote:
>
> "Christopher Ott" <spamtrap at ottelectronics dot com> wrote in message
> news:3tOdnaOTrtuoKQbbnZ2dnUVZ_qO3nZ2d@giganews.com...
>
>> "Bajori" <bajori1970 DeleteThis @cbj.com> wrote in message
>> news:1lLmi.111561$G_4.8364@fe09.news.easynews.com...
>>
>>>
>>> <dkaufma DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:1184511830.543727.225110@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi... DeleteThis @optonline.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> G wrote:
>>>>> > You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the
>>>>> value > of the
>>>>> > car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it
>>>>> is > going to
>>>>> > cost you more than the value of the car.
>>>>>
>>>>> > "FanJet" <FanJe... DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>> >news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>>>>>
>>>>> > <dkau... DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>> >news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>
>>>>> >>I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new
>>>>> springs
>>>>> >>and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>>>>> >>oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times.
>>>>> At >>one
>>>>> >>point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the
>>>>> car >>was
>>>>> >>shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away
>>>>> >>after
>>>>> >>a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>>>>> >>when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>>>>> >>Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>>>>> >>good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>>>>> >>winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would
>>>>> like
>>>>> >>to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>>>>> >>with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>>>>> >>periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission
>>>>> >>test
>>>>> >>in the spring.
>>>>>
>>>>> > Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair
>>>>> the > Altima
>>>>> > since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken
>>>>> > care of.
>>>>> > Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that
>>>>> > 1100 every
>>>>> > month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment
>>>>> on > the new
>>>>> > car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>>>>>
>>>>> >http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> > and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it
>>>>> you > can
>>>>> > effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types
>>>>> and > anyone
>>>>> > else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what
>>>>> you're > doing
>>>>> > no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on
>>>>> to > an easy
>>>>> > mark. It's really that simple.
>>>>>
>>>>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>>>>>
>>>>> CD
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
>>>> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
>>>> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
>>>> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
>>>> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
>>>> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
>>>> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
>>>> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
>>>> and the wheels worn out?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Are you thinking of the work being done on the vehicle as maintenance
>>> or repairs? Considering the check engine light, repairs is more
>>> likely. There comes a point of diminishing returns, and it seems as
>>> though you have hit that mark. If you put $1500 worth of work into
>>> the vehicle, that is essentially 3-4 payments worth of a new Altima,
>>> that you could have used for down payment. In another 4 months, what
>>> is the likelihood that you will need to put another 1000, or more,
>>> into your old Altima? The chances are likely. In essence, it will
>>> cost you just slightly more for financing a newer vehicle, without
>>> the hassle of major repairs and down time.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps
>>>
>>> www.jerseynissan.com
>>> bringler DeleteThis @jerseynissan.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Taking a different direction, there are a lot of very decent, reliable
>> older cars out there that can be had in the $1500 price range. New
>> does not always mean problem free. You need to have cash in hand, and
>> be willing to spend some time looking through Craigslist every day,
>> but they're out there.
>>
>> 3 - 6 years of car payments to avoid $1100 in car repair costs is a
>> terrible tradeoff in my opinion. However I would not keep pouring
>> money into a problem car either.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>
> Generally, as I have stated previously, it is much less expensive to
> repair a vehicle rather than purchase something new. You do, however,
> get tot he point of diminishing returns, and need to move on. Depending
> on the issue causing the check engine light, he is rapidly approaching
> that point on his Altima.
>
> You are talking about a little more than $1000 dollars of repairs right
> now. Ten year old cars, on average, take about $250-$300 per month to
> keep running, over the course of a year. If you don't do those things to
> keep the vehicle maintained it will just result in bigger repair bills
> down the road. A Certified Altima costs about $60-$75 per month to keep
> running, maintenance-wise. At a minimum tha tis a swing of $175-$240 PER
> MONTH! That in and of itself is a car payment. Now, does his emotional
> attachment to that particular Altima justify that cost differences in
> maintenance. How about the trust factor, as that Altima has clearly
> been great for him, and he will still trust it more than any vehicle he
> is bound to purchase? Where those two items balance in the equation will
> dictate his choice moving forward.
>
> The big thing, however, is that a 10-yr old car is in many ways much
> more costly than people realize, unless the owner does nothing to
> maintain the vehicle to assure a good long life.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> www.jerseynissan.com
> bringler DeleteThis @jerseynissan.com
>
>
>
>>
>
Good advice. Fact is, it is an old car. It's a reliable car but an old
one. The $1500 worth of work may be done and then your alternator dies,
not from premature failure, but fromthe fact that it's time is done.
Then the water pump etc. All these things are going to go, sooner rather
than later now that the car has reached 150 K miles.

A new car is more attrciative becuase it's new and nothing will break,
but the car payments are another long term commitment and insurance
rates may be higher as well.

As some have suggested, maybe another used car should be investigated.
But then, he does have a good used car that just needs some work.

It's a bit of a toss up.



CD
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

Codifus wrote:
> dkaufma DeleteThis @gmail.com wrote:
>> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi... DeleteThis @optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>> G wrote:
>>>
>>>> You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value
>>>> of the
>>>> car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is
>>>> going to
>>>> cost you more than the value of the car.
>>>
>>>> "FanJet" <FanJe... DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>>>
>>>> <dkau... DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>>> I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
>>>>> and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
>>>>> oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
>>>>> point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
>>>>> shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
>>>>> a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
>>>>> when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
>>>>> Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
>>>>> good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
>>>>> winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
>>>>> to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
>>>>> with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
>>>>> periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
>>>>> in the spring.
>>>
>>>> Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair
>>>> the Altima
>>>> since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken
>>>> care of.
>>>> Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that
>>>> 1100 every
>>>> month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on
>>>> the new
>>>> car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>>>
>>>> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>>>>
>>>
>>>> and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
>>>> effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and
>>>> anyone
>>>> else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what
>>>> you're doing
>>>> no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to
>>>> an easy
>>>> mark. It's really that simple.
>>>
>>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>>>
>>> CD
>>
>>
>> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
>> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
>> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
>> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
>> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
>> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
>> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
>> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
>> and the wheels worn out?
>>
> Yes, the bushings and mount parts around the spring should be replaced
> as well. If they aren't, the car will still work and run fine with new
> spring and older spring parts, but you may hear funny noises going over
> bumps etc.
>
> How did the springs break anyhow? I can understand worn, but broke?
>
> CD

Also, if you don't like paying out all that money, DO IT YOURSELF!! Car
nuts would call a spring/shock job 'monkey simple', but even a
non-mechanic would be surprised at how easy it is. Autozone will 'loan'
you all the specialty tools required, and you should be able to find the
springs at a 'you pull it' junkyard near you.

--
rock4arolla

'84 Nissan Kingcab 4x4 - VQ35DE - MegaSquirt II
'89 240SX
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

On Jul 25, 10:59 am, "dkau...@gmail.com" <dkau....DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jul 19, 9:40 am, rock4arolla <acidviper2....DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Codifus wrote:
> > > dkau....DeleteThis@gmail.com wrote:
> > >> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi....DeleteThis@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> > >>> G wrote:
>
> > >>>> You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value
> > >>>> of the
> > >>>> car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is
> > >>>> going to
> > >>>> cost you more than the value of the car.
>
> > >>>> "FanJet" <FanJe....DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > >>>>news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>
> > >>>> <dkau....DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > >>>>news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
> > >>>>> I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
> > >>>>> and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
> > >>>>> oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
> > >>>>> point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
> > >>>>> shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
> > >>>>> a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
> > >>>>> when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
> > >>>>> Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
> > >>>>> good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
> > >>>>> winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
> > >>>>> to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
> > >>>>> with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
> > >>>>> periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
> > >>>>> in the spring.
>
> > >>>> Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair
> > >>>> the Altima
> > >>>> since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken
> > >>>> care of.
> > >>>> Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that
> > >>>> 1100 every
> > >>>> month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on
> > >>>> the new
> > >>>> car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>
> > >>>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>
> > >>>> and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
> > >>>> effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and
> > >>>> anyone
> > >>>> else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what
> > >>>> you're doing
> > >>>> no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to
> > >>>> an easy
> > >>>> mark. It's really that simple.
>
> > >>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>
> > >>> CD
>
> > >> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
> > >> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
> > >> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
> > >> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
> > >> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
> > >> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
> > >> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
> > >> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
> > >> and the wheels worn out?
>
> > > Yes, the bushings and mount parts around the spring should be replaced
> > > as well. If they aren't, the car will still work and run fine with new
> > > spring and older spring parts, but you may hear funny noises going over
> > > bumps etc.
>
> > > How did the springs break anyhow? I can understand worn, but broke?
>
> > > CD
>
> > Also, if you don't like paying out all that money, DO IT YOURSELF!! Car
> > nuts would call a spring/shock job 'monkey simple', but even a
> > non-mechanic would be surprised at how easy it is. Autozone will 'loan'
> > you all the specialty tools required, and you should be able to find the
> > springs at a 'you pull it' junkyard near you.
>
> > --
> > rock4arolla
>
> > '84 Nissan Kingcab 4x4 - VQ35DE - MegaSquirt II
> > '89 240SX- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Codifus: I hit a 12" curb. The springs seem to be chipped/broken at
> the very top. You can't see the broken part unless you crawl behind
> the wheel and look up.
>
> rock4arolla: Thanks for the advice, I think I will try to install
> myself.
>
> My main concern is safety. Say I replace the springs but the struts
> are worn but not broken and the tower mounts are intact. Am I going
> to be bouncing all over the road with new springs and old struts? I'm
> afraid this will make the car more unsafe than it is now. The car
> doesn't bounce now but maybe that is due to the broken springs. If I
> need new springs and new struts its not worth it. But if I can get
> away with just new springs I think it may be worthwile to spend the
> money. Of course every mechanic I talk to wants to replace the struts
> and the mounts as well but how do I know if it is necessary?

You should replace the struts as well because during normal wear and
tear you never replace the springs. Struts are the components that
wear out. The only time you replace springs is to significantly change
the car's suspension setup, either to lower its ride height or put in
a much stiffer suspension. Since you're already replacing the springs,
go for the struts as well.

CD
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima? 

On Jul 19, 9:40 am, rock4arolla <acidviper2....DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote:
> Codifus wrote:
> > dkau....DeleteThis@gmail.com wrote:
> >> On Jul 12, 5:02 pm, Codifus <codi....DeleteThis@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> >>> G wrote:
>
> >>>> You should not repair a car if the repairs cost more than the value
> >>>> of the
> >>>> car. IMO you should junk the car and buy another one because it is
> >>>> going to
> >>>> cost you more than the value of the car.
>
> >>>> "FanJet" <FanJe....DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>>>news:4695aae8$0$25587$4d3efbfe@news.sover.net...
>
> >>>> <dkau....DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >>>>news:1184194423.287809.292120@m3g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
> >>>>> I have a 1994 Altima GXE with 150k miles on it. It needs new springs
> >>>>> and struts ($800) and new tires/alignment ($300). I 've changed the
> >>>>> oil every 3,000 miles and transmission fluid probably 3 times. At one
> >>>>> point last winter I thought I had a transmission problem, (the car was
> >>>>> shuddering in low gear in the morning) but the problem went away after
> >>>>> a few days. The first 100k miles was driven by my grandmother, but
> >>>>> when I inherited the car I used it to deliver pizza for a few years.
> >>>>> Do you think it is worth putting the $1100 into it if the engine is
> >>>>> good and the transmission is questionable? Should I wait until the
> >>>>> winter and see how it goes? If I decide to keep the car I would like
> >>>>> to make it as safe as possible and right now its a little dangerous
> >>>>> with bad suspension. I also have a check engine light that comes on
> >>>>> periodically when driving at high speeds so I might fail emission test
> >>>>> in the spring.
>
> >>>> Depends on how soon you want that new car. I'd suggest you repair
> >>>> the Altima
> >>>> since '94 was a good year and it sounds like yours has been taken
> >>>> care of.
> >>>> Drive it for a year or two more. After 3 months, bank 1/3 of that
> >>>> 1100 every
> >>>> month. When you're ready, use what you've saved as a down payment on
> >>>> the new
> >>>> car of your choice. Right now, buy yourself one of these:
>
> >>>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JBLH/ruggedelegance3305-...
>
> >>>> and spend a little time really learning how to use it. With it you can
> >>>> effectively deal with bankers, car dealerships, mortgage types and
> >>>> anyone
> >>>> else who'd like some of your money. If they know you know what
> >>>> you're doing
> >>>> no one wastes time. You get the best deal going and they move on to
> >>>> an easy
> >>>> mark. It's really that simple.
>
> >>> True, but this is maintenance, not repair.
>
> >>> CD
>
> >> Thank you for the advice. I was hoping another Altima owner would
> >> know when is a good time to stop paying for maintenance because it is
> >> cheaper to just buy a new car. Probably I'm looking at $1500 worth of
> >> repairs if I include tires and resolving the check engine light
> >> issue. The car is worth probably $800. Perhaps it is worth more to
> >> me because I know I have maintained the engine but I really don't know
> >> what will go wrong next. Another concern is that since my springs
> >> have been broken for so long are the parts that attach to the spring
> >> and the wheels worn out?
>
> > Yes, the bushings and mount parts around the spring should be replaced
> > as well. If they aren't, the car will still work and run fine with new
> > spring and older spring parts, but you may hear funny noises going over
> > bumps etc.
>
> > How did the springs break anyhow? I can understand worn, but broke?
>
> > CD
>
> Also, if you don't like paying out all that money, DO IT YOURSELF!! Car
> nuts would call a spring/shock job 'monkey simple', but even a
> non-mechanic would be surprised at how easy it is. Autozone will 'loan'
> you all the specialty tools required, and you should be able to find the
> springs at a 'you pull it' junkyard near you.
>
> --
> rock4arolla
>
> '84 Nissan Kingcab 4x4 - VQ35DE - MegaSquirt II
> '89 240SX- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Codifus: I hit a 12" curb. The springs seem to be chipped/broken at
the very top. You can't see the broken part unless you crawl behind
the wheel and look up.

rock4arolla: Thanks for the advice, I think I will try to install
myself.

My main concern is safety. Say I replace the springs but the struts
are worn but not broken and the tower mounts are intact. Am I going
to be bouncing all over the road with new springs and old struts? I'm
afraid this will make the car more unsafe than it is now. The car
doesn't bounce now but maybe that is due to the broken springs. If I
need new springs and new struts its not worth it. But if I can get
away with just new springs I think it may be worthwile to spend the
money. Of course every mechanic I talk to wants to replace the struts
and the mounts as well but how do I know if it is necessary?
 >> Stay informed about: should I give up on my Altima?