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99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures

  
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Dogg

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Since: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 5



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:34 am
Post subject: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures
Archived from groups: alt>autos>gm (more info?)
Can anyone please post or direct me to the procedures for replacing
the intake gasket. It's my turn to fix my GM leaking gasket problem.
I've read as much here as I can about the updated gasket and sealant,
I'm just wondering about what parts I'll need to remove to get to it.

99 Lumina 3.1

 >> Stay informed about: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures 
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Silver Surfer

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Since: Dec 04, 2007
Posts: 53



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 12:56 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Document ID# 339144
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Lumina
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intake Manifold Replacement Upper

Removal Procedure

Important
This engine uses a sequential multiport fuel injection system. Connect the
injector wiring harness connectors to their appropriate fuel injector or
exhaust emissions and engine performance may be seriously affected. For the
correct injector wiring harness connector-to-fuel injector connection
procedure, refer to Engine Electrical.

Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Refer to Battery
Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct.
Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the intake air temperature
(IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Refer to Intake Air
Temperature (IAT) Sensor Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System in Engine Cooling.
Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from
the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness from the retainer. Refer to
Accelerator Controls Cable Bracket Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Disconnect the following wiring harness connectors from the throttle body:
Throttle position (TP) sensor
Idle air control (IAC) valve
Disconnect the (left) front spark plug wires. Refer to Spark Plug Wire
Harness Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips.
Camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness
Left hand spark plug wire harness
Engine wiring harness
Remove the nut from the coolant pipe to the throttle body.
Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body.
Refer to HVAC.
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement .
Rotate the engine forward for access.
Disconnect the right spark plug wire retaining clips.
Remove the spark plug wires at the coil pack.
Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the
vacuum canister solenoid, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections.
Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement and Evaporative Emission (EVAP)
Canister Purge Valve Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and
upper intake manifold.
Remove the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket. Refer to
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Replacement in Engine Controls -
3.1L.

Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness.
Disconnect the vacuum hose connections from the upper intake manifold.
Vacuum booster hose
Automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose
Heater and air conditioning vacuum source hose
Fuel pressure regulator
Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement .
Remove the front generator brace. Refer to Generator Brace Replacement in
Engine Electrical.
Remove the rear generator brace. Refer to Generator Brace Replacement in
Engine Electrical.

Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve. Refer to Exhaust Gas
Recirculation (EGR) Valve Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Remove the right hand upper intake manifold bolts and studs.

Remove the left hand upper intake manifold bolts.
Remove the upper intake manifold.

Remove the upper intake manifold gasket.

If replacing the upper intake manifold, remove the throttle body. Refer to
Throttle Body Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Clean the seal surfaces on the manifold with degreaser.

Installation Procedure

If removed, install the throttle body. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly
Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Install the upper intake manifold gasket.

Install the upper intake manifold.
Loosely install the left hand upper intake manifold bolts.

Loosely install the right hand upper intake manifold bolts and studs.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must
be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring
replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or
sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces
unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping
force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts
and systems.

Install the upper intake manifold bolts and studs. Tighten
Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts and studs to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Install the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve. Refer to Exhaust Gas
Recirculation (EGR) Valve Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Install the rear generator brace. Refer to Generator Brace Replacement in
Engine Electrical.
Install the front generator brace. Refer to Generator Brace Replacement in
Engine Electrical.
Connect the vacuum hose connections to the upper intake manifold.
Vacuum booster hose
Automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose
Heater and air conditioning vacuum source hose
Fuel pressure regulator

Connect the emission control vacuum harness.
Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket. Refer to
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Replacement in Engine Controls -
3.1L.

Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the
upper intake manifold.
Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the
vacuum canister solenoid, the spark plug wire retainers, the plug wires at
the ignition module, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Refer
to Ignition Control Module Replacement and Evaporative Emission (EVAP)
Canister Purge Valve Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Return the engine to the proper position.
Install the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement and
Engine Mount Strut Replacement .
Connect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses to the throttle body.
Install coolant pipe nut to throttle body.
Connect the wiring harness attachment clips.
Camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness
Left hand spark plug wire harness
Engine wiring harness
Connect the left hand spark plug wires. Refer to Spark Plug Wire Harness
Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Connect the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body.
Throttle position (TP) sensor
Idle air control (IAC) valve
Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to
the throttle body. Install the wiring harness to the retainer. Refer to
Throttle Body Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling
Cooling System in Engine Cooling.
Install the throttle body air inlet duct.
Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT)
sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Refer to Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) Sensor Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct.
Connect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Refer to Battery
Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intake Manifold Replacement Lower
Removal Procedure

Important
This engine uses a sequential multiport fuel injection system. Injector
wiring harness connectors must be connected to their appropriate fuel
injector or exhaust emissions and engine performance may be seriously
affected.

Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative
Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement .
Disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the engine. Refer to Radiator Hose
Replacement - Inlet in Engine Cooling.

Disconnect the thermostat bypass hose from the thermostat bypass pipe and
lower intake manifold pipe.
Remove the thermostat bypass pipe.
Remove the left (front) valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm
Cover Replacement .
Remove the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Remove the right (rear) valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm
Cover Replacement .

Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) wiring harness.

Disconnect and remove the fuel injector and manifold air pressure (MAP)
wiring harness.

Remove the fuel pipe clip bolt.

Remove the fuel pipe clip.

Disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the fuel injector rail. Refer to Fuel
Hose/Pipes Replacement - Filter to Engine in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Disconnect the fuel return pipe from the fuel injector rail. Refer to Fuel
Hose/Pipes Replacement - Filter to Engine in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Remove the fuel injector rail. Refer to Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement in
Engine Controls - 3.1L.
Remove the power steering pump from the front engine cover and reposition.
Refer to Power Steering Pump Replacement in Power Steering System.

Disconnect the heater inlet pipe with heater hose from the lower intake
manifold and reposition. Refer to Heater Pipe Replacement - Inlet in HVAC.

Remove the lower intake manifold bolts.
Remove the lower intake manifold.
Remove the valve rocker arms and the push rods. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm
and Push Rod Replacement .

Remove the lower intake manifold gaskets and seals.
Clean the lower intake manifold gasket and seal surfaces on the cylinder
heads and the engine block.
Clean the gasket and seal surfaces on the lower intake manifold with
degreaser.
Remove all the loose RTV sealer.

If replacing the lower intake manifold remove the engine coolant temperature
(ECT) sensor. Refer to Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Replacement
in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

If replacing the lower intake manifold remove the water outlet bolts.
Remove the water outlet.

If replacing the lower intake manifold remove the thermostat.
Installation Procedure

If removed, install the thermostat.

If removed, install the water outlet.
Notice
Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Install the water outlet bolts. Tighten
Tighten the water outlet bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

If removed, install the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. Refer to
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Replacement in Engine Controls -
3.1L.

Important
All gasket-mating surfaces need to be free of oil, and foreign material. Use
GM P/N 12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463) or equivalent to clean surfaces.

Install the lower intake manifold gaskets.
With gaskets in place supply a small drop 8-10 mm (0.31 -0.39 in) of RTV
Sealer GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to the 4
corners of the intake manifold to block joint (1).
Connect the 2 small drops with a bead of RTV Sealer that is between 8-10 mm
(0.30-0.39 in) wide and 3.0-5.0 mm (0.12-0.20 in) thick (2).
Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm and
Push Rod Replacement .
Notice
Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Important
All lower intake manifold bolts need to be cleaned, free of any foreign
material, and reused only if new bolts are unavailable. Use GM P/N 12345382
(Canadian P/N 10953489) or equivalent and apply to the old intake manifold
bolt threads.

Important
Manufacturer recommends the center bolts be fully torqued before the
diagonal bolts to assure proper seal ability.

Important
Lower intake manifold bolts in location 6 and 7 should be torqued to
specification using a crows foot type tool.

Install the lower intake manifold. Install the lower intake manifold bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts in sequence to 7 N·m (62 lb in) on
the first pass.
Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts (1,2,3,4) in sequence to 13 N·m (115
lb in) on the final pass.
Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts (5,6,7,Cool in sequence to 25 N·m (18
lb ft) on the final pass.

Install the heater inlet pipe.
Install the heater inlet pipe nut. Tighten
Tighten the heater inlet pipe nut to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Install the power steering pump to the front engine cover. Refer to Power
Steering Pump Replacement in Power Steering System.

Important
Do not press on the fuel pressure regulator valve when installing the fuel
injector rail assembly.

Install the fuel injector rail assembly.
Install the fuel injector O-rings using GM P/N 12345616 (Canadian P/N
993182).
Install the injector nozzles into the lower intake manifold injector bores.
Press on the injector rail using the palms of both hands until the injectors
are fully seated.
Install the fuel injector rail bolts. Tighten
Tighten the fuel injector rail bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

Connect the fuel return pipe to the fuel injector rail. Refer to Fuel
Hose/Pipes Replacement - Filter to Engine in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Connect the fuel feed pipe to the fuel injector rail. Refer to Fuel
Hose/Pipes Replacement - Filter to Engine in Engine Controls - 3.1L.

Install the fuel feed and return pipe retaining clip.
Install the fuel feed and return pipe retaining clip bolt. Tighten
Tighten the fuel feed and return pipe retaining clip bolt to 8 N·m (71 lb
in).

Connect the thermostat bypass hose to the thermostat bypass pipe and lower
intake manifold pipe.
Connect the radiator inlet hose to the engine. Refer to Radiator Hose
Replacement - Inlet in Engine Cooling.

Install and connect the fuel injector and manifold air pressure (MAP) wiring
harness.

Connect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) wiring harness.
Install the right (rear) valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm
Cover Replacement .
Install the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Install the left (front) valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm
Cover Replacement .
Install the upper intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement .
Connect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable
Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 339149
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Lumina

<Dogg DeleteThis @Datt.s> wrote in message
news:pe5g3414eab3pnup2vn91posedd6ihduq3@4ax.com...
> Can anyone please post or direct me to the procedures for replacing
> the intake gasket. It's my turn to fix my GM leaking gasket problem.
> I've read as much here as I can about the updated gasket and sealant,
> I'm just wondering about what parts I'll need to remove to get to it.
>
> 99 Lumina 3.1

 >> Stay informed about: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures 
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Dogg

External


Since: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 5



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 1:15 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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anon

External


Since: Sep 28, 2006
Posts: 24



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 5:15 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Here is the replacement procedure I used on a 2000 Century courtesy of
Ian aka 'Shiden Kai'
If you do a search for 'Shiden Kai" you'll come up with a a revised
procedure where he uses a box wrench to pry on the rockers to remove
the pushrods without loosening the nuts.
I loosened the nuts and used a Fel Pro Problem solver gasket and new
manifold bolts with pre-applied sealer.
That was 18 months and 20,000kms ago and all is well.

Thanks again Ian!

ernie wrote:
> I have not removed an intake manifold in close to 30 years.
> I am about 2/3 sure that is the problem I will take it to the dealer
> Monday and get an estimate and if reasonable let them fix it.
> I am not sure what reasonable is. Does anyone here know?


By the time we are done doing the job (we charge 98 dollars
an hour), it's usually a 750-800 dollar job. The labour
charge is about 6.0 hrs, but a good tech can easily do it
in 2.0 hrs. I wrote up a detailed explanation of how to do
this job a while back. I'll paste it below and you can do with
it what you want. It should be pretty close to what you will
encounter with your vehicle. It was written for a van, but the
procedure is very similiar for your car. There will be some
difference at the throttle body area and the fuel lines for the
injector rail go way down under the exhaust. Don't bother
trying to disconnect any fuel lines, simply remove the nut
that holds the fuel lines against the rear head and then position
the injector rain and lines up out of the way and bunjee cord
it up to the hood. It's too much work to try and disconnect the
fuel lines and then snake them out under the exhaust crossover
pipe. You will see what I mean when you get there.

Ian


Ok, I'll go over the basic procedure for the van.


First step would be to drain the coolant. This year, you
need a 1/4 inch square drive ratchet and preferably a short
extension. Use the 1/4" ratchet to turn the drain cock
counter clockwise about an 1/8 of turn, then you have to
pull the drain cock out while turning it further.


Next...pull the rubber hood seal off at the front of the
cowl area...then you can pull off that plastic piece that
covers the wiper motor area (passenger side of the
engine compartment.


Pull the air filter housing and snorkel..usually, I find it
easier to remove the rubber section first, and then you
have more room to remove the air filter cover and air
filter. There are a couple of electrical connections on
the snorkel and the MAF sensor, unplug them...and then
follow that wire harness back and unplug everything else
on it, except where it plugs into the coil pack ( oh yeah,
I'm going to give you the "faster" version). So you should
have a couple more sensors at the throttle body, a red
connector at the evap solenoid and then a harness clip
at the coil pack. You can position this harness back over
the coil pack. Remove the front three spark plug wires at
the coil pack. Unhook all the clips that hold those wires
to the engine, but don't bother to take the wires off the front
plugs, just lay the wires over the front of the rad support.
Remove the vacuum booster hose at the upper plenum.


Remove the two bolts that secure the coil pack bracket
to the upper intake plenum (10 mm head). Now you want
to remove the MAP sensor which sits bolted to a small
bracket on the upper plenum right in front of the coil
pack. You will need a 7 mm socket or wrench to undo
the two long screws that hold it in place. Then unhook
the vacuum lines and the electrical connector and lay
the sensor and vacuum lines somewhere. Now you
can remove the upper plenum bolts. At the passenger
rear side of the upper plenum, there is a small brace that
goes from the alternator to one of the bolts in the upper
plenum. Get that brace off and then you can take that
one plenum bolt out.


Now go to the back of the engine, you need to find
the EGR pipe that comes up to the upper plenum and
EGR valve. The temptation is to remove the valve, but
don't bother. Just remove the bolt that holds the flexible
pipe to the upper plenum. There is also a small nut that
holds the Transmission filler tube to a stud on the upper
plenum. You need to remove that and push the filler
tube off that stud. There is also one nut at the throttle
body that holds a coolant pipe in place, remove that and
disconnect the two small throttle body coolant hoses at
the back of the engine there. At this point you should be
able to remove the upper plenum. Do "not" bend the
coil pack bracket up to give yourself clearance. This makes
it very difficult to start those bolts properly later on. Just
slide the upper plenum out from underneath it. You may
notice that I said nothing about the cables to the throttle body.
I do not disconnect them, just leave them on the plenum and
flip the plenum upside down and off to the side. It will just
sit there.


Next, you need to remove the fuel rail and injectors. There are
two 10mm head bolts that hold the rail to the lower intake, and
one that holds the fuel lines to a bracket at the rear of the rear
head. Remove all three, carefully pry/pull the fuel injectors and
rail out of the holes. Take a close look at the injectors once
you have them out, any o-rings that have come off need to
be retrieved from the intake manifold area. Sometimes they
will just be loose, other times, they are stuck in the injector
holes. Again, I don't disconnect the fuel lines, just position the
rail and lines off to the side somewhere.


There is a heater pipe that goes into the lower intake at the
rear of the engine. You need to simply loosen the nut that
holds it to a stud at the rear of the rear head, and then
you can pull the pipe out of the intake. Note: replace
that o-ring seal.


There is also a heater pipe and bypass pipe assembly
that runs along the front of the front valve cover. That
is the same pipe that had the two small throttle body hoses
connected to it. Remove it, and either move it off to the
side, or disconnect the "quick connect" fitting (sometimes
they aren't all the "quick" and so I just leave them).


Now you can remove the front valve cover, if you need
room to get at the one bolt, remove the left engine strut
and you can get a run at the bolt. Then loosen the two
rear valve cover bolts that you can see. One will be
under the alternator, the other is under the coil pack.
In both cases, there is just enough room to completely
loosen the two bolts.


Now you have to deal with the power steering pump.
Remove the small plastic shield that sits right above
the water pump pulley (this just give you a little more
clearance for the ps pump pulley). Now, remove
the serpentine belt. Then remove the three bolts
that hold the pump to the engine, you can access
them thru the bolts in the pulley. They are 13 mm
bolts. Now, you must loosen the ps pressure hose
fitting at the pump. Use a 5/8 wrench and just
loosen it until the hose will be able to move. In other
words, don't completely remove the hose. Now, reach
your hand down the two ps hoses and you will find some
plastic clips that the hoses are in. Pop the Pressure
hose (left one as you look down at the two hoses) out
of the plastic clip. Now, you should be able to pull
the pump up and lay it down between the front of
the engine and windshield washer bottle. You may
need to fiddle with the rubber return hose, as there
is a bracket in it's way, you can move the hose around
the bracket.


At this point, remove the lower intake bolts (8 of them)
and the upper rad hose from the lower intake. The intake
should now slide out from under the rear valve cover. Trust
me, it comes out. Now you have to loosen the rockers
arms enough so that you can get the push rods out. The rear
rocker arm bolts can be reached, even though the rear valve
cover is in place. Just loosen each rocker arm just enough
to be able to remove the push rods. Keep them in order,
as it's important that you don't mix them up.


Clean up your gasket surfaces..etc. Then install
your intake gaskets to the head first, then the push rods.
Short pushrods to the intake valves, long to the exhaust
valves. Be meticulous about cleaning the front and
rear surfaces of the block and the intake manifold, as
this is where the RTV sealer goes. Also clean the joint
between the rear valve cover and the cylinder head and
where the intake manifold will meet the two of them. Do
not mess with the rear valve cover gasket, just make sure
it stays up in it's groove. Before you install the intake, make
sure you have a nice bead of RTV on the front and rear mating
surfaces, and put a dab of RTV in that corner where the rear
v/c and head and intake will meet. From there, it's pretty
well just the reverse of the removal procedure. Don't bother
trying to tighten those two rear valve cover bolts until you have
torqued down the intake manifold. Then they will just slide
right in. Also, when you install the upper plenum, you are
going to slide it back under the coil pack, and then engage
the EGR pipe and the throttle body coolant hoses. Take your
time here, and make sure everything is where it should be
before tightening down the intake bolts.


Hope this helps, and all goes well. The procedure for the
Century will be almost identical, other then the Trans dipstick
tube.


Ian
http://groups.google.ca/group/alt.autos.gm/browse_thread/thread/8985b3...1687f1c


GM

Coolant and/or oil leaks. GM reports that many of its 1999-2003 mid-
size cars and minivans with the 3.1 or 3.4L V6 (VINs J, E) are
susceptible to springing oil and/or coolant leaks at the lower intake
manifold gasket. The complaints you're likely to get irom customers
can vary from oily spots on the driveway to continually having to top
up the coolant reservoir with antifreeze. The Low Coolant light on the
dash could also illuminate. A new-design
intake gasket with superior sealing qualities (Part No. 89017279) is
now available to eliminate both leakage issues.

GM says you must install upgraded manifold bolts with preapplied
threadlocker (Part No. 11588915, short bolts; Part No. 11588914, long
bolts) to get the benefits of the new gaskets sealing qualities. New
torque specs and a new tightening sequence for the bolts are also on
the menu (see illustration).

Here's the info you'll need to do the job: Begin by tightening the
four vertical (inner) bolts to 62 in.-lbs. Follow that up by
tightening the four diagonal (outer) bolts to the same 62 in.-lbs. Now
go back to the vertical bolts and torque them to 115 in.-lbs. Complete
the tightening sequence by torquing the diagonal bolts to 18 ft.-lbs.
GM cautions that if you don't use the new torque specs in the exact
sequence indicated, you could be opening yourself up to a comeback.
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Dogg

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Since: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 5



(Msg. 5) Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 8:29 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 Lumina 3.1 Intake gasket replacement procedures [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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