92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ?

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik.RemoveThis@abuse.gov> wrote in message news:Xns9ACD5768C1416jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.85...
> "Dave" <gasoline.RemoveThis@all-costs.com> wrote in
> news:3q_9k.16650$3F5.7061@bignews2.bellsouth.net:
>
> > This truck occasionally and only briefly won't produce a spark
> > Since it never cooperates by not producing a spark long enough
> > for me to track the problem, I've decided to just shotgun it
> > and replace everything that has to do with the spark.
> >
> > OK here's what I'm thinking constitutes all of what
> > should be replaced to consider the spark aspect
> > of the engine to be fully "shotgunned"
> >
> > Firstly, the ignition coil has already been replaced,
> > so the remaining items should be,
> >
> > 1. the transistor that drives the coil
>
> > 2. the computer board
> That would be the ECM,VERY expensive,and probably NOT NECESSARY.

Well, I figger that if it doesn't solve the problem, then at least
I'll have a spare ECM. You never know when they could
be discontinued and a spare might come in handy somewhere
down the road.

Expense isn't as much a consideration as is making the truck
reliable. That's because it's my wife's vehicle.
If it can't be made "reliable" then she'll buy a new vehicle
and that would be even *more* expensive if you catch my drift.

>
> did you bother to get the ECM read for trouble codes?
> That is the FIRST thing you should do.

I plan to give it a go tomorrow, but bear in mind,
the dang truck works most of the time perfectly, so
unless it's acting up at the time, I have some doubts
as to what the diagnostics will be able to flag.

But I am rather curious to try it anyway.

I did however inspect the ECM for any visible
problems and I did check the ESR of all of the
filter caps in it.

>
> > 3. the sensor inside the distributor
> >
> > Anything else I need to add to this list ?
>
> distributor cap,rotor,plug wires(they can break down with age)
>
> and spark plugs.


Yeah I did all that when I replaced the ignition coil. However,
the one time that this problem briefly cooperated with me
long enough to do one stinking test,
I couldn't even draw an arc straight out
of the brand new ignition coil. So I'm pretty sure the problem is
ahead of the coil. Which AFAIK narrows it down to
the transistor, the ECM, or a sensor in the distributor.
A Hall sensor perhaps?
Or maybe it just wasn't getting B+ (12V) to the coil.

Unfortunately before I could
check to see whether the coil was getting B+ , it all
started working again. Very frustrating. I have a degree
in electronics and a thorough background in troubleshooting
electronic circuitry and I can't even fix this frikken truck.

But then again, as you probably well know,
such are intermittant problems.
If they don't want to cooperate, they can
sometimes be the hardest damn problems to troubleshoot.

I'm seriously thinking of making my own little diagnostic
monitor board with a few LED's and perhaps a few latching
registers to catch and record a few things.

Lately I have noticed that the speedometer seems to
react more like a fuel level control. It's very slow to
adjust. It's as if it's being averaged over a long time period.
Say for example you are going 60, then slow down to
30. The speedometer will slowly wind it's way
down to 30. I mean really slow, like a half minute
or so. I'm wondering if this might be a sign that the
ECM might be a bit ill.

Anyway, if the weather is cooperative I'll try to run
the diagnostics and I'll report the results.

Thanks
Dave



>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

"Dave" <gasoline.DeleteThis@all-costs.com> wrote in
news:o6jak.16712$PZ6.4301@bignews5.bellsouth.net:

>
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik.DeleteThis@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns9ACD5768C1416jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.85...
>> "Dave" <gasoline.DeleteThis@all-costs.com> wrote in
>> news:3q_9k.16650$3F5.7061@bignews2.bellsouth.net:
>>
>> > This truck occasionally and only briefly won't produce a spark
>> > Since it never cooperates by not producing a spark long enough
>> > for me to track the problem, I've decided to just shotgun it
>> > and replace everything that has to do with the spark.
>> >
>> > OK here's what I'm thinking constitutes all of what
>> > should be replaced to consider the spark aspect
>> > of the engine to be fully "shotgunned"
>> >
>> > Firstly, the ignition coil has already been replaced,
>> > so the remaining items should be,
>> >
>> > 1. the transistor that drives the coil
>>
>> > 2. the computer board
>> That would be the ECM,VERY expensive,and probably NOT NECESSARY.
>
> Well, I figger that if it doesn't solve the problem, then at least
> I'll have a spare ECM. You never know when they could
> be discontinued and a spare might come in handy somewhere
> down the road.

They would still be available from wrecks/junked vehicles.
>
> Expense isn't as much a consideration as is making the truck
> reliable. That's because it's my wife's vehicle.
> If it can't be made "reliable" then she'll buy a new vehicle
> and that would be even *more* expensive if you catch my drift.
>
>>
>> did you bother to get the ECM read for trouble codes?
>> That is the FIRST thing you should do.
>
> I plan to give it a go tomorrow, but bear in mind,
> the dang truck works most of the time perfectly, so
> unless it's acting up at the time, I have some doubts
> as to what the diagnostics will be able to flag.
>
> But I am rather curious to try it anyway.
>
> I did however inspect the ECM for any visible
> problems and I did check the ESR of all of the
> filter caps in it.

And in disconnecting it from power for a time,you may have cleared any
fault codes set.
you're supposed to read the diagnostic codes FIRST.

So,now you gotta reinstall it,drive it until the problem shows up,and then
READ the ECM for trouble codes.
>
>>
>> > 3. the sensor inside the distributor
>> >
>> > Anything else I need to add to this list ?
>>
>> distributor cap,rotor,plug wires(they can break down with age)
>>
>> and spark plugs.
>
>
> Yeah I did all that when I replaced the ignition coil. However,
> the one time that this problem briefly cooperated with me
> long enough to do one stinking test,
> I couldn't even draw an arc straight out
> of the brand new ignition coil. So I'm pretty sure the problem is
> ahead of the coil. Which AFAIK narrows it down to
> the transistor, the ECM, or a sensor in the distributor.
> A Hall sensor perhaps?
> Or maybe it just wasn't getting B+ (12V) to the coil.

Is there a resistor in series with the coil?

BTW,you may find that the distrubutor internals are not available
separately,but only as a complete distributor assy.
>
> Unfortunately before I could
> check to see whether the coil was getting B+ , it all
> started working again. Very frustrating. I have a degree
> in electronics and a thorough background in troubleshooting
> electronic circuitry and I can't even fix this frikken truck.

I did 21 years with Tektronix as a electronic tech,before that,PMEL in the
USAF.
>
> But then again, as you probably well know,
> such are intermittant problems.

That is why there's On-Board Diagnostics(OBD) that store trouble codes.

> If they don't want to cooperate, they can
> sometimes be the hardest damn problems to troubleshoot.
>
> I'm seriously thinking of making my own little diagnostic
> monitor board with a few LED's and perhaps a few latching
> registers to catch and record a few things.

you would need a known good vehicle to test it on.
Since 92's are OBD-I,there's no standard interface to the ECM like for OBD-
II. For those systems,there are adapter cables to connect to a laptop PC to
perform the task of a dedicated OBD-II code reader.(the code reader is much
cheaper...)
>
> Lately I have noticed that the speedometer seems to
> react more like a fuel level control. It's very slow to
> adjust. It's as if it's being averaged over a long time period.
> Say for example you are going 60, then slow down to
> 30. The speedometer will slowly wind it's way
> down to 30. I mean really slow, like a half minute
> or so. I'm wondering if this might be a sign that the
> ECM might be a bit ill.

How's your battery and alternator voltage doing?
>
> Anyway, if the weather is cooperative I'll try to run
> the diagnostics and I'll report the results.
>
> Thanks
> Dave


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik DeleteThis @abuse.gov> wrote in message news:Xns9ACE59FF31F36jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.87...
> "Dave" <gasoline DeleteThis @all-costs.com> wrote in
> > Well, I figger that if it doesn't solve the problem, then at least
> > I'll have a spare ECM. You never know when they could
> > be discontinued and a spare might come in handy somewhere
> > down the road.
>
> They would still be available from wrecks/junked vehicles.

I'd rather have a new one. But who knows, I may do a turnabout
when I find out the price


> > Expense isn't as much a consideration as is making the truck
> > reliable. That's because it's my wife's vehicle.
> > If it can't be made "reliable" then she'll buy a new vehicle
> > and that would be even *more* expensive if you catch my drift.
> >
> >>
> >> did you bother to get the ECM read for trouble codes?
> >> That is the FIRST thing you should do.
> >
> > I plan to give it a go tomorrow, but bear in mind,
> > the dang truck works most of the time perfectly, so
> > unless it's acting up at the time, I have some doubts
> > as to what the diagnostics will be able to flag.
> >
> > But I am rather curious to try it anyway.
> >
> > I did however inspect the ECM for any visible
> > problems and I did check the ESR of all of the
> > filter caps in it.
>
> And in disconnecting it from power for a time,you may have cleared any
> fault codes set.
> you're supposed to read the diagnostic codes FIRST.

I wasn't yet aware that the thing even had diagnostic modes
when I did all that. I had happened across a post in a forum
where someone mentioned leaky caps in the ECM,
so I was expecting to find a bunch of leaky surface mounted
electrolytics inside. There turned out to be nothing of the sort.

Well, when I did that work, I did happen to notice the diagnostic
mode section at the end of the ECM's idle adjust pot.
In fact, that's what I'm doing
online right now, searching for instrusctions on how to
run the diagnostics. I don't have a manual yet. Unfortunately,
I'm multiplexing (or multi-tasking) the repair of this truck with
about ten other jobs right now, so bear with me.



>
> So,now you gotta reinstall it,drive it until the problem shows up,and then
> READ the ECM for trouble codes.


Yup, dad gummit !


> >
> >>
> >> > 3. the sensor inside the distributor
> >> >
> >> > Anything else I need to add to this list ?
> >>
> >> distributor cap,rotor,plug wires(they can break down with age)
> >>
> >> and spark plugs.
> >
> >
> > Yeah I did all that when I replaced the ignition coil. However,
> > the one time that this problem briefly cooperated with me
> > long enough to do one stinking test,
> > I couldn't even draw an arc straight out
> > of the brand new ignition coil. So I'm pretty sure the problem is
> > ahead of the coil. Which AFAIK narrows it down to
> > the transistor, the ECM, or a sensor in the distributor.
> > A Hall sensor perhaps?
> > Or maybe it just wasn't getting B+ (12V) to the coil.
>
> Is there a resistor in series with the coil?

I thought about that. A lot of older cars I've seen always seemed
to have a resistor. But nothing of the sort is visible. I have a schematic
for a Nissan 240-SX which uses the same engine and there's no
such resistor used on the 240-SX. But there's no guarantee that
the 240-SX and my PU are exactly the same in this regard.

But the 240-SX schema does show a small assembly that has a 2.2uf
cap and a 2K resistor in it. That assembly definitely is also in
my PU as I located it, determined that the cap was bad and replaced
it. Of course this never fixed the problem and I never expected it
to since the cap was only from 12V B+ to ground as a noise filter, or
perhaps as an energy reservoir for the coil (or both)

The 2K resistor (which measured ok) goes from the collector
of the chipper transistor to the ECM. Not sure exctly what the ECM
is monitoring there, but hopefully it's something that a diagnostic
readout will prove to be useful


>
> BTW,you may find that the distrubutor internals are not available
> separately,but only as a complete distributor assy.


yeah, that I already am expecting to probably be the case.
Someone in a post mentioned some kind of ribbed gear
and a sensor, so I'm thinking a hall sensor, but it could be
simply some kind of coil. Hopefully I can fabricate my own
method of sensing, but I'm not going to knock myself out.
If it's too involved, I'll just replace the whole distributor.


> >
> > Unfortunately before I could
> > check to see whether the coil was getting B+ , it all
> > started working again. Very frustrating. I have a degree
> > in electronics and a thorough background in troubleshooting
> > electronic circuitry and I can't even fix this frikken truck.
>
> I did 21 years with Tektronix as a electronic tech,before that,PMEL in the
> USAF.

Yeah Jim, I remember you from SER where I used to post quite a bit.
You gave me some advice about my 465, which BTW just died
a couple months back. I have the manual and intend to repair
it for the 4'th time now, but it's going to have to wait. I'm up
to my gills in problems. Some of them even left over from
hurricane Katrina

> > But then again, as you probably well know,
> > such are intermittant problems.
>
> That is why there's On-Board Diagnostics(OBD) that store trouble codes.
>
> > If they don't want to cooperate, they can
> > sometimes be the hardest damn problems to troubleshoot.
> >
> > I'm seriously thinking of making my own little diagnostic
> > monitor board with a few LED's and perhaps a few latching
> > registers to catch and record a few things.
>
> you would need a known good vehicle to test it on.
> Since 92's are OBD-I,there's no standard interface to the ECM like for OBD-
> II. For those systems,there are adapter cables to connect to a laptop PC to
> perform the task of a dedicated OBD-II code reader.(the code reader is much
> cheaper...)

I was only thinking to monitor three things. First the B+ to the coil
secondly the signal from the distributor, and thirdly the base
drive signal from the ECM to the coil driver transistor.

IOW, set up three LED's that are off when all thre things
are working correctly. Then when the thing acts up, simply
instruct my wife to take note of which of the three LED's
was lit at the time when things were acting up.

If you think the ECM diagnostics will flag these three items,
then I guess I won't need to go to that extent.

> >
> > Lately I have noticed that the speedometer seems to
> > react more like a fuel level control. It's very slow to
> > adjust. It's as if it's being averaged over a long time period.
> > Say for example you are going 60, then slow down to
> > 30. The speedometer will slowly wind it's way
> > down to 30. I mean really slow, like a half minute
> > or so. I'm wondering if this might be a sign that the
> > ECM might be a bit ill.
>
> How's your battery and alternator voltage doing?

Fine AFAIK. Haven't noticed much variation in
light intensisty of the headlights. Seems pretty consistant.
Starter always kicks and the battery is an Interstate and
not very old.

BTW, if anyone has any good links to tutorials about
running the diagnostics, I'm all ears.

Thanks
Dave Moore
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

Dave wrote:

>
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik RemoveThis @abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns9ACE59FF31F36jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.87...
>> "Dave" <gasoline RemoveThis @all-costs.com> wrote in
>> > Well, I figger that if it doesn't solve the problem, then at least
>> > I'll have a spare ECM. You never know when they could
>> > be discontinued and a spare might come in handy somewhere
>> > down the road.
>>
>> They would still be available from wrecks/junked vehicles.
>
> I'd rather have a new one. But who knows, I may do a turnabout
> when I find out the price
>
>
>> > Expense isn't as much a consideration as is making the truck
>> > reliable. That's because it's my wife's vehicle.
>> > If it can't be made "reliable" then she'll buy a new vehicle
>> > and that would be even *more* expensive if you catch my drift.
>> >
>> >>
>> >> did you bother to get the ECM read for trouble codes?
>> >> That is the FIRST thing you should do.
>> >
>> > I plan to give it a go tomorrow, but bear in mind,
>> > the dang truck works most of the time perfectly, so
>> > unless it's acting up at the time, I have some doubts
>> > as to what the diagnostics will be able to flag.
>> >
>> > But I am rather curious to try it anyway.
>> >
>> > I did however inspect the ECM for any visible
>> > problems and I did check the ESR of all of the
>> > filter caps in it.
>>
>> And in disconnecting it from power for a time,you may have cleared any
>> fault codes set.
>> you're supposed to read the diagnostic codes FIRST.
>
> I wasn't yet aware that the thing even had diagnostic modes
> when I did all that. I had happened across a post in a forum
> where someone mentioned leaky caps in the ECM,
> so I was expecting to find a bunch of leaky surface mounted
> electrolytics inside. There turned out to be nothing of the sort.
>
> Well, when I did that work, I did happen to notice the diagnostic
> mode section at the end of the ECM's idle adjust pot.
> In fact, that's what I'm doing
> online right now, searching for instrusctions on how to
> run the diagnostics. I don't have a manual yet. Unfortunately,
> I'm multiplexing (or multi-tasking) the repair of this truck with
> about ten other jobs right now, so bear with me.
>
>
>
>>
>> So,now you gotta reinstall it,drive it until the problem shows up,and
>> then READ the ECM for trouble codes.
>
>
> Yup, dad gummit !
>
>
>> >
>> >>
>> >> > 3. the sensor inside the distributor
>> >> >
>> >> > Anything else I need to add to this list ?
>> >>
>> >> distributor cap,rotor,plug wires(they can break down with age)
>> >>
>> >> and spark plugs.
>> >
>> >
>> > Yeah I did all that when I replaced the ignition coil. However,
>> > the one time that this problem briefly cooperated with me
>> > long enough to do one stinking test,
>> > I couldn't even draw an arc straight out
>> > of the brand new ignition coil. So I'm pretty sure the problem is
>> > ahead of the coil. Which AFAIK narrows it down to
>> > the transistor, the ECM, or a sensor in the distributor.
>> > A Hall sensor perhaps?
>> > Or maybe it just wasn't getting B+ (12V) to the coil.
>>
>> Is there a resistor in series with the coil?
>
> I thought about that. A lot of older cars I've seen always seemed
> to have a resistor. But nothing of the sort is visible. I have a schematic
> for a Nissan 240-SX which uses the same engine and there's no
> such resistor used on the 240-SX. But there's no guarantee that
> the 240-SX and my PU are exactly the same in this regard.
>
> But the 240-SX schema does show a small assembly that has a 2.2uf
> cap and a 2K resistor in it. That assembly definitely is also in
> my PU as I located it, determined that the cap was bad and replaced
> it. Of course this never fixed the problem and I never expected it
> to since the cap was only from 12V B+ to ground as a noise filter, or
> perhaps as an energy reservoir for the coil (or both)
>
> The 2K resistor (which measured ok) goes from the collector
> of the chipper transistor to the ECM. Not sure exctly what the ECM
> is monitoring there, but hopefully it's something that a diagnostic
> readout will prove to be useful
>
>
>>
>> BTW,you may find that the distrubutor internals are not available
>> separately,but only as a complete distributor assy.
>
>
> yeah, that I already am expecting to probably be the case.
> Someone in a post mentioned some kind of ribbed gear
> and a sensor, so I'm thinking a hall sensor, but it could be
> simply some kind of coil. Hopefully I can fabricate my own
> method of sensing, but I'm not going to knock myself out.
> If it's too involved, I'll just replace the whole distributor.
>
>
>> >
>> > Unfortunately before I could
>> > check to see whether the coil was getting B+ , it all
>> > started working again. Very frustrating. I have a degree
>> > in electronics and a thorough background in troubleshooting
>> > electronic circuitry and I can't even fix this frikken truck.
>>
>> I did 21 years with Tektronix as a electronic tech,before that,PMEL in
>> the USAF.
>
> Yeah Jim, I remember you from SER where I used to post quite a bit.
> You gave me some advice about my 465, which BTW just died
> a couple months back. I have the manual and intend to repair
> it for the 4'th time now, but it's going to have to wait. I'm up
> to my gills in problems. Some of them even left over from
> hurricane Katrina
>
>> > But then again, as you probably well know,
>> > such are intermittant problems.
>>
>> That is why there's On-Board Diagnostics(OBD) that store trouble codes.
>>
>> > If they don't want to cooperate, they can
>> > sometimes be the hardest damn problems to troubleshoot.
>> >
>> > I'm seriously thinking of making my own little diagnostic
>> > monitor board with a few LED's and perhaps a few latching
>> > registers to catch and record a few things.
>>
>> you would need a known good vehicle to test it on.
>> Since 92's are OBD-I,there's no standard interface to the ECM like for
>> OBD- II. For those systems,there are adapter cables to connect to a
>> laptop PC to perform the task of a dedicated OBD-II code reader.(the code
>> reader is much cheaper...)
>
> I was only thinking to monitor three things. First the B+ to the coil
> secondly the signal from the distributor, and thirdly the base
> drive signal from the ECM to the coil driver transistor.
>
> IOW, set up three LED's that are off when all thre things
> are working correctly. Then when the thing acts up, simply
> instruct my wife to take note of which of the three LED's
> was lit at the time when things were acting up.
>
> If you think the ECM diagnostics will flag these three items,
> then I guess I won't need to go to that extent.
>
>> >
>> > Lately I have noticed that the speedometer seems to
>> > react more like a fuel level control. It's very slow to
>> > adjust. It's as if it's being averaged over a long time period.
>> > Say for example you are going 60, then slow down to
>> > 30. The speedometer will slowly wind it's way
>> > down to 30. I mean really slow, like a half minute
>> > or so. I'm wondering if this might be a sign that the
>> > ECM might be a bit ill.
>>
>> How's your battery and alternator voltage doing?
>
> Fine AFAIK. Haven't noticed much variation in
> light intensisty of the headlights. Seems pretty consistant.
> Starter always kicks and the battery is an Interstate and
> not very old.
>
> BTW, if anyone has any good links to tutorials about
> running the diagnostics, I'm all ears.
>
> Thanks
> Dave Moore


http://www.books4cars.com/?gclid=CIWx1daIoJQCFRMYagodGCtZtg
http://www.datamanuals.com/autos.htm
http://www.google.com/search?q=1992+nissan+online+manual&ie=utf-8&oe=u...8&aq=t&
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

"Dave" <gasoline RemoveThis @all-costs.com> wrote in
news:4mAak.8874$CC.2902@bignews9.bellsouth.net:


> BTW, if anyone has any good links to tutorials about
> running the diagnostics, I'm all ears.
>
> Thanks
> Dave Moore
>
>
>

http://www.nissanhelp.com/

you can download sections of the Nissan manual,1 per 24 hr period.
I can't recall if they go back as far as your year of PU,though.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik RemoveThis @abuse.gov> wrote

> http://www.nissanhelp.com/
>
> you can download sections of the Nissan manual,1 per 24 hr period.
> I can't recall if they go back as far as your year of PU,though.



Thanks.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find anything there before 1994
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

I downloaded the EC manual for a 1994 and so far it looks
like it might be the same as my 92, or at least close enough
to be useful.

If nothing else, it does explain a lot of the
Engine Control theory, so if nothing else it
should be a good educational read.

Thanks for the link Jim
--Dave--



"Dave" <gasoline.RemoveThis@all-costs.com> wrote in message news:bdGak.18914$3F5.8654@bignews2.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik.RemoveThis@abuse.gov> wrote
>
> > http://www.nissanhelp.com/
> >
> > you can download sections of the Nissan manual,1 per 24 hr period.
> > I can't recall if they go back as far as your year of PU,though.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
> Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find anything there before 1994
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ? 

Fixed the no spark condition. It turned out to be an intermittant
transistor in the optical module in the distributor.

FWIW, I reverse engineered the bugger and replaced not
only the transistor in it but also a surface mount comparator IC.

I'd like to share the schematic with the public.
Any suggestions about where would be a good site to post it?

--Dave--






"Dave" <gasoline.TakeThisOut@all-costs.com> wrote in message news:3q_9k.16650$3F5.7061@bignews2.bellsouth.net...
> This truck occasionally and only briefly won't produce a spark
> Since it never cooperates by not producing a spark long enough
> for me to track the problem, I've decided to just shotgun it
> and replace everything that has to do with the spark.
>
> OK here's what I'm thinking constitutes all of what
> should be replaced to consider the spark aspect
> of the engine to be fully "shotgunned"
>
> Firstly, the ignition coil has already been replaced,
> so the remaining items should be,
>
> 1. the transistor that drives the coil
> 2. the computer board
> 3. the sensor inside the distributor
>
> Anything else I need to add to this list ?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Dave
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 92 Nissan PU KA24E engine no spark, what to shotgun ?