On Jul 11, 2:40 pm, jg <juangar....TakeThisOut@sacbeemail.com> wrote:
> About a month ago, the key on my 1984 300SD got stuck in the off
> position. I did my homework and got it to turn THAT LAST time (after
> about an hour of trying.) So I removed the tumbler and proceeded to
> drive it by starting it with a screwdriver. Once home I
> procrastinated getting a new tumbler since I was able to start/stop
> the car with a screw driver. After a few days of this, I noticed the
> ignition was getting stuck again. I eventually figured out that I had
> to push a little latch inside in order to start the car. At that
> time, I concluded that the tumbler did the pushing for me when it is
> in place. So I hurried and got me a replacement (used) tumbler. (A
> buddy of mine has an identical car that he uses for parts.)
>
> I used it for about 2 weeks without any problems and I was getting
> ready to order one from the dealer (since my buddy's was on loan) when
> I noticed the key was sticking again. Well, last week, it got stuck
> again. It took me about a week of trying (a few minutes here and
> there) to get it to turn THAT LAST time again. So now I have removed
> the tumbler again and am back to starting it with a screw driver.
> Actually most times I start it with a pair of needle nose pliers so as
> to not disturb the "latch" I referred to earlier.
>
> At any rate, now I'm thinking the sticking is not due to a bad tumbler
> (both tumblers turn fine when outside) I'm starting to think I have
> some other issue going on. Perhaps the mechanism behind the tumbler
> is what is faulty. I've done more homework but I have yet to learn
> anything about this possibility.
>
> Anybody here have any clues?
>
> Anybody have detailed instructions on how to remove the cluster panel
> to get to the mechanism that starts the car. If I can take it apart
> maybe I can learn something.
>
> jg
Well, I don't have detailed instructions (yet), but I can tell you how
to remove the instrument cluster. You pull it out. Seriously, its just
held in by friction. To help me with this I made two "pullers" out of
wire coat hanger with a short (1/2") hook on the end, and a handle
fashioned about 3" away. (I read about the tool and technique here
http://articles.mbz.org/instrument/renew/ ). Slide one in each side at
about the 80C mark on the Temp gauge, and the 60 mark on the Tach (for
my cluster), then rotate the tool so that the hooks catch the sides of
the instrument cluster. Then pull, it comes out easier than you
think.
Once you get it pulled out then you need to remove everything off of
the back. For mine, I found that the seat belt and glow plug lights
came out the easiest, then the clock 12V line (spade connector), then
the speedometer nut and line. Once you get those off you have a good
bit more room, and there are a couple electrical connections for the
tach and cruise (or something on top of the speedometer). The hardest
part is disconnecting the oil pressure line in that tight space. Its a
10mm (I think) open end and unscrew it from the brass housing on the
back of the cluster. One large connector (for dash lights, fuel, and
temp, and other warning lights) and you're done.
Once the instrument cluster is out of the way, then you will probably
have some insulation to move to be able to get down to the switch from
the top.
Disclaimer: I don't know if it would be easier to get to the switch
from the bottom by removing the lower kick panels or not, but for me
its not.
Unfortunately, thats the most help I can offer. I haven't had the bad
luck of my key not turning yet, but it may start soon. Quick question
though... Did you rekey the tumblers to match your existing key? Or
use your buddy's key for the tumbler you borrowed?
If the former, could it just be a really worn key?
Along those lines, who cuts keys for these things (other than a MB
dealership)?
Ok, more questions than answers, sorry about that, but maybe we can
learn together.
>> Stay informed about: Mercedes 300SD ignition switch stuck. Help removing. 
FAQ
Profile
Private Messages
Log in
