6.2L Diesel Starter

I was given the truck because of the starter problems.
Here is the story as I know it. It is originally a Military truck so it
had 2 alternators and batteries and a 24 volt starter. It was converted
over to 1 alternator and battery and 12 volt start before they bought
it.
They decided to hook up the other alternator and install another
battery. This then supplied the starter with 24 volts. The claimed the
starter died and broke one of the 2 bolts.
They installed a new starter and unhooked the second alternator and
battery. They were never able to get it to work right so they gave it
to me. They're maybe more to the story that they are not admitting.
I looked at the flex plate and it looks good the starter looks good. I
plan on going to the Chev dealer today to buy the missing bracket and
pick up a shim kit.
Is there anything else to look at?
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

<ronhammer5.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1125409076.487355.103540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I was given the truck because of the starter problems.
> Here is the story as I know it. It is originally a Military truck so it
> had 2 alternators and batteries and a 24 volt starter. It was converted
> over to 1 alternator and battery and 12 volt start before they bought
> it.
> They decided to hook up the other alternator and install another
> battery. This then supplied the starter with 24 volts. The claimed the
> starter died and broke one of the 2 bolts.
> They installed a new starter and unhooked the second alternator and
> battery. They were never able to get it to work right so they gave it
> to me. They're maybe more to the story that they are not admitting.
> I looked at the flex plate and it looks good the starter looks good. I
> plan on going to the Chev dealer today to buy the missing bracket and
> pick up a shim kit.
> Is there anything else to look at?

No just replace the broken bolt if it hasn't been done. I have an 83 and
broken bolts are very common, there is a massive amount of torque on those
two bolts. You will need the two batteries but hooked in parallel not in
series. So decide which side battery will feed the truck and just get
cables long enough to reach from the second battery to the first one. But
hook red to red and black to black, the red one from the second battery to
the red of the first battery and so on. One battery will not be enough to
start the truck in the winter time. Otherwise go with what Franko said, you
do need a shim with this starter. I would also check the starter gear on
the torque converter to make sure it isn't beaten to death. If it is warn
out it will destroy every starter you put on it in the future. Good luck
and be careful the starters are heavy. I would also leave out the second
alternator and use it as back-up should the primary fail. Otherwise it
sounds like a win for you. A free truck... as a side note if it is a
military truck the trans is probably a TH350 (or TH400) and not a 700R4 so
if the dealer asks...this may make a difference in shim thickness... Let us
know how you make out.

good luck,
mark
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

Make sure you install NEW starter bolts, GRADUALLY torqued
to spec, using thread lock blue.

Always install identical batteries for dual-battery setups.
Install the "largest" CA/CCA capacity that will fit your
budget/engine compartment.
For dual-batts (per Mark), use at least 4 ga. red cable from
+ to + terminals (shortest possible).
Use at least 2 ga. red cable from the + terminal of one
battery (closest to starter) to the starter.
Use 4 ga. black cables from the NEG terminals of the
batteries to the engine block grounds.
Use 6 or 8 ga. from the NEG terminals of the batteries to
the fender/frame (scrape to bare metal if required or use
heavy sheet metal screws with external star washers).

Clean all electrical contacts -- remove all nuts and
washers, degrease if required and wire brush to remove
corrosion. Do the same for the alternator contacts and the
two engine ground straps.

Spray red battery terminal protector spray (available at
AutoZone or other auto parts stores) on battery terminals,
ground points, starter terminals, etc.

For top post connectors, use the red/green felt battery
terminal rings ($1.25 a set stops headaches down the road
with corroded connectors). Use them cautiously with side
connectors because they may get in the way and prevent good
contacts.

If you have an engine block heater, use it when it gets
colder than 32 deg F -- I have mine on a timer for 2 hours
before I start it in the a.m. Below 20 deg F, I have the
heater on for at least 3 hours.

When it's cold, if you park where you are unable to plug in
the block heater, you will need to cycle the glow plugs
twice or thrice before attempting to crank the engine to
start. This is when the dual-batt set up is a life saver.

Use synthetic oil for easier cold starts.

Good luck and let us know how you go!

Regards,
Franko


"r_d" <rock_doctor.RemoveThis@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:43147a4c$0$50889$ec3e2dad@news.usenetmonster.com...
>
> <ronhammer5.RemoveThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
news:1125409076.487355.103540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> >I was given the truck because of the starter problems.
> > Here is the story as I know it. It is originally a
Military truck so it
> > had 2 alternators and batteries and a 24 volt starter.
It was converted
> > over to 1 alternator and battery and 12 volt start
before they bought
> > it.
> > They decided to hook up the other alternator and install
another
> > battery. This then supplied the starter with 24 volts.
The claimed the
> > starter died and broke one of the 2 bolts.
> > They installed a new starter and unhooked the second
alternator and
> > battery. They were never able to get it to work right so
they gave it
> > to me. They're maybe more to the story that they are not
admitting.
> > I looked at the flex plate and it looks good the starter
looks good. I
> > plan on going to the Chev dealer today to buy the
missing bracket and
> > pick up a shim kit.
> > Is there anything else to look at?
>
> No just replace the broken bolt if it hasn't been done. I
have an 83 and
> broken bolts are very common, there is a massive amount of
torque on those
> two bolts. You will need the two batteries but hooked in
parallel not in
> series. So decide which side battery will feed the truck
and just get
> cables long enough to reach from the second battery to the
first one. But
> hook red to red and black to black, the red one from the
second battery to
> the red of the first battery and so on. One battery will
not be enough to
> start the truck in the winter time. Otherwise go with
what Franko said, you
> do need a shim with this starter. I would also check the
starter gear on
> the torque converter to make sure it isn't beaten to
death. If it is warn
> out it will destroy every starter you put on it in the
future. Good luck
> and be careful the starters are heavy. I would also leave
out the second
> alternator and use it as back-up should the primary fail.
Otherwise it
> sounds like a win for you. A free truck... as a side
note if it is a
> military truck the trans is probably a TH350 (or TH400)
and not a 700R4 so
> if the dealer asks...this may make a difference in shim
thickness... Let us
> know how you make out.
>
> good luck,
> mark
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

Forgot to add...

Spray red battery terminal protector spray AFTER
assembling/tightening connections.

Regards,
Franko

"Franko" <franko.RemoveThis@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:k08Re.154994$5N3.105469@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Make sure you install NEW starter bolts, GRADUALLY torqued
> to spec, using thread lock blue.
>
> Always install identical batteries for dual-battery
setups.
> Install the "largest" CA/CCA capacity that will fit your
> budget/engine compartment.
> For dual-batts (per Mark), use at least 4 ga. red cable
from
> + to + terminals (shortest possible).
> Use at least 2 ga. red cable from the + terminal of one
> battery (closest to starter) to the starter.
> Use 4 ga. black cables from the NEG terminals of the
> batteries to the engine block grounds.
> Use 6 or 8 ga. from the NEG terminals of the batteries to
> the fender/frame (scrape to bare metal if required or use
> heavy sheet metal screws with external star washers).
>
> Clean all electrical contacts -- remove all nuts and
> washers, degrease if required and wire brush to remove
> corrosion. Do the same for the alternator contacts and
the
> two engine ground straps.
>
> Spray red battery terminal protector spray (available at
> AutoZone or other auto parts stores) on battery terminals,
> ground points, starter terminals, etc.
>
> For top post connectors, use the red/green felt battery
> terminal rings ($1.25 a set stops headaches down the road
> with corroded connectors). Use them cautiously with side
> connectors because they may get in the way and prevent
good
> contacts.
>
> If you have an engine block heater, use it when it gets
> colder than 32 deg F -- I have mine on a timer for 2 hours
> before I start it in the a.m. Below 20 deg F, I have the
> heater on for at least 3 hours.
>
> When it's cold, if you park where you are unable to plug
in
> the block heater, you will need to cycle the glow plugs
> twice or thrice before attempting to crank the engine to
> start. This is when the dual-batt set up is a life saver.
>
> Use synthetic oil for easier cold starts.
>
> Good luck and let us know how you go!
>
> Regards,
> Franko
>
>
> "r_d" <rock_doctor.RemoveThis@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:43147a4c$0$50889$ec3e2dad@news.usenetmonster.com...
> >
> > <ronhammer5.RemoveThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> >
>
news:1125409076.487355.103540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > >I was given the truck because of the starter problems.
> > > Here is the story as I know it. It is originally a
> Military truck so it
> > > had 2 alternators and batteries and a 24 volt starter.
> It was converted
> > > over to 1 alternator and battery and 12 volt start
> before they bought
> > > it.
> > > They decided to hook up the other alternator and
install
> another
> > > battery. This then supplied the starter with 24 volts.
> The claimed the
> > > starter died and broke one of the 2 bolts.
> > > They installed a new starter and unhooked the second
> alternator and
> > > battery. They were never able to get it to work right
so
> they gave it
> > > to me. They're maybe more to the story that they are
not
> admitting.
> > > I looked at the flex plate and it looks good the
starter
> looks good. I
> > > plan on going to the Chev dealer today to buy the
> missing bracket and
> > > pick up a shim kit.
> > > Is there anything else to look at?
> >
> > No just replace the broken bolt if it hasn't been done.
I
> have an 83 and
> > broken bolts are very common, there is a massive amount
of
> torque on those
> > two bolts. You will need the two batteries but hooked
in
> parallel not in
> > series. So decide which side battery will feed the
truck
> and just get
> > cables long enough to reach from the second battery to
the
> first one. But
> > hook red to red and black to black, the red one from the
> second battery to
> > the red of the first battery and so on. One battery
will
> not be enough to
> > start the truck in the winter time. Otherwise go with
> what Franko said, you
> > do need a shim with this starter. I would also check
the
> starter gear on
> > the torque converter to make sure it isn't beaten to
> death. If it is warn
> > out it will destroy every starter you put on it in the
> future. Good luck
> > and be careful the starters are heavy. I would also
leave
> out the second
> > alternator and use it as back-up should the primary
fail.
> Otherwise it
> > sounds like a win for you. A free truck... as a
side
> note if it is a
> > military truck the trans is probably a TH350 (or TH400)
> and not a 700R4 so
> > if the dealer asks...this may make a difference in shim
> thickness... Let us
> > know how you make out.
> >
> > good luck,
> > mark
> >
> >
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

OK next problem. I broke the bolt on the starter Solenoid. I went to
the part store and every one they pull is different than the one I
need. They pulled a starter that they say is for the truck and it is
diffent that the one I have.
Other than buy there starter $170 any ideas. There really are no
numbers on the Solenoid is 12V. The numbers on the stater are 12V
UNI9-03.
I assume the 12V is 12 volts but any ideas one what starter I have?
Not sure if this will help but the Solenoid has the plunger on it and a
rubber boot over it.
Will the starter they want to sell me going to work?
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

Hello Ron,

Which bolt on the solenoid are you referring to?

Try searching for a local shop that rebuilds
starters/alternators -- they should be able to repair your
unit for much less than a "new" one from the autoparts store
(rebuilds). I suspect you may have a military starter.

Franko

<ronhammer5.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1125621027.989905.40880@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> OK next problem. I broke the bolt on the starter Solenoid.
I went to
> the part store and every one they pull is different than
the one I
> need. They pulled a starter that they say is for the truck
and it is
> diffent that the one I have.
> Other than buy there starter $170 any ideas. There really
are no
> numbers on the Solenoid is 12V. The numbers on the stater
are 12V
> UNI9-03.
> I assume the 12V is 12 volts but any ideas one what
starter I have?
> Not sure if this will help but the Solenoid has the
plunger on it and a
> rubber boot over it.
> Will the starter they want to sell me going to work?
>
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

The bolt holds the wire from the ingition switch.

Ron

Franko wrote:
> Hello Ron,
>
> Which bolt on the solenoid are you referring to?
>
> Try searching for a local shop that rebuilds
> starters/alternators -- they should be able to repair your
> unit for much less than a "new" one from the autoparts store
> (rebuilds). I suspect you may have a military starter.
>
> Franko
>
> <ronhammer5.RemoveThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1125621027.989905.40880@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > OK next problem. I broke the bolt on the starter Solenoid.
> I went to
> > the part store and every one they pull is different than
> the one I
> > need. They pulled a starter that they say is for the truck
> and it is
> > diffent that the one I have.
> > Other than buy there starter $170 any ideas. There really
> are no
> > numbers on the Solenoid is 12V. The numbers on the stater
> are 12V
> > UNI9-03.
> > I assume the 12V is 12 volts but any ideas one what
> starter I have?
> > Not sure if this will help but the Solenoid has the
> plunger on it and a
> > rubber boot over it.
> > Will the starter they want to sell me going to work?
> >
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter 

Hello Ron,

If I remember correctly, that's a copper bolt? If you feel
comfortable opening up the solenoid to replace that bolt...

If you cannot find a copper replacement, use a brass one,
otherwise stainless steel. Go for it and if you cannot fix
it yourself, do the local rebuild shop and maybe they'll let
you watch how they do it. Let us know and good luck.

Franko

<ronhammer5.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1125666135.871309.238370@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> The bolt holds the wire from the ingition switch.
>
> Ron
>
> Franko wrote:
> > Hello Ron,
> >
> > Which bolt on the solenoid are you referring to?
> >
> > Try searching for a local shop that rebuilds
> > starters/alternators -- they should be able to repair
your
> > unit for much less than a "new" one from the autoparts
store
> > (rebuilds). I suspect you may have a military starter.
> >
> > Franko
> >
> > <ronhammer5.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> >
news:1125621027.989905.40880@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > > OK next problem. I broke the bolt on the starter
Solenoid.
> > I went to
> > > the part store and every one they pull is different
than
> > the one I
> > > need. They pulled a starter that they say is for the
truck
> > and it is
> > > diffent that the one I have.
> > > Other than buy there starter $170 any ideas. There
really
> > are no
> > > numbers on the Solenoid is 12V. The numbers on the
stater
> > are 12V
> > > UNI9-03.
> > > I assume the 12V is 12 volts but any ideas one what
> > starter I have?
> > > Not sure if this will help but the Solenoid has the
> > plunger on it and a
> > > rubber boot over it.
> > > Will the starter they want to sell me going to work?
> > >
>
 >> Stay informed about: 6.2L Diesel Starter