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239cu in parts

 
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Daniel-Pittsboro N

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Since: May 28, 2004
Posts: 67



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 6:41 pm
Post subject: 239cu in parts
Archived from groups: alt>autos>ford>flathead (more info?)

Hello,
My name is Daniel at autofashions.com. I restore antique & classic
vehicles. I am currently installing a new 239 cu in engine in my customers
vehicle. I still have the old engine and the crankshaft, piston rods & caps
are in good shape. The problem with the old engine was there was a crack in
the block from valve to cylinder wall. If anyone looking for the parts I
mention please contact me at my website and I will show you parts before
purchase by video email. You will have to copy & paste my website into a
browser to find me. Look forward to help if I can
Daniel 919-542-5566 Pittsboro NC

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Whitelightning

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Since: Aug 11, 2004
Posts: 681



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 1:40 am
Post subject: Re: 239cu in parts [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"Daniel-Pittsboro NC" <autofashions DeleteThis @mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:CFaug.337$157.0@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Hello,
> My name is Daniel at autofashions.com. I restore antique & classic
> vehicles. I am currently installing a new 239 cu in engine in my
customers
> vehicle. I still have the old engine and the crankshaft, piston rods &
caps
> are in good shape. The problem with the old engine was there was a crack
in
> the block from valve to cylinder wall. If anyone looking for the parts I
> mention please contact me at my website and I will show you parts before
> purchase by video email. You will have to copy & paste my website into a
> browser to find me. Look forward to help if I can
> Daniel 919-542-5566 Pittsboro NC

In the old days, we would repair that. We would start in the middle of the
crack if it spanned two openings, and drill a hole, tap it and then insert a
tapered plug, grinding it flush. We then drill next to it so that it
partially drilled the edge of the plug and tap and plug, over lapping about
1/4th the width of the plugs we were using, repeating the process until the
crack was filled and then extend it past the end, check it after with a
magnaflux. A sleeve would be installed if the crack went into the cylinder
area. But then that was back when we fixed things. If the crack didn't span
two openings, we would start about a plug's width from the beginning of the
crack as determined by magnaflux testing.
somewhere boxed away I have an old Glens Service manual that even goes into
detail with illustrations, but the newest car in that book was a '51.

Whitelightning

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