20w-4- Diesel Oil

"Sam" <sjlord.RemoveThis@stanford.edu> wrote in message
news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
> guys think?

http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

Thanks for the link, John. But I'm curious what you guys use in your
air-cooled engines. I've heard some conflicting advice. I feel safe with
20W50, but I'm wondering if people prefer a lower weight.

Of course, my climate matters: I'm talking about the San Fransisco Bay
Area: it usually doesn't get above 100F in the summer, or below 40F in
the winter.

-Sam


john wrote:
> "Sam" <sjlord.DeleteThis@stanford.edu> wrote in message
> news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
>> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
>> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
>> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
>> guys think?
>
> http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

On May 22, 7:03 pm, "John" <susa....DeleteThis@aapt.net.au> wrote:
> Yes, interesting link. Reminds me when I was at my "inlaws" farm at
> Tintenbar about
> 1985. Old bloke had a Ferguson TEA20 tractor which used an old Vanguard
> engine. Typical Brit engine, long stroke, low revs, heaps of torque. Anyway,
> was asked if
> I could do an oil change on the tractor. Sure, piece of cake says the
> unsuspecting.
> Couldnt get the sump plug out for hours, siezed in. Eventually got it out
> and what
> dropped out had the consistency of treacle , appearance of pitch and
> viscosity
> of both. Asked when it had its last oil change--- when it was made about
> 1948
> was as close as he could get. Sorry, thats just a little off topic ,
>                              John
>
> john" <x....DeleteThis@x.net> wrote in message
>
> news:RrudnSPJ7ZM7RKjVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@supernews.com...
>
>
>
> > "Sam" <sjl....DeleteThis@stanford.edu> wrote in message
> >news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
> >> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
> >> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
> >> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
> >> guys think?
>
> >http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

As you know John, everyone has opinions on oils............and of
course I think I am right. Be that as it may, your oil probibly does
a lot more good than you know. Not only might the 20/50 help an older
motor but in searching oils for zinc contents last year I found that
most auto oils have removed the zinc as the new cars do not require it
since they went to overhead cams and roller cams instead of the flat
lifter/cam style. I read that an engine builder was having trouble
with the engines since they were using solid lifters and he felt this
was (zinc) required to prevent excessive wear and flat spots. Anyway
Amsoil now sells a oil for older engines that require zinc. It turns
out this is the exact same oil they sold before for diesel engines.
As I looked at other brands it seems that most diesel oils have a high
zinc content. The original engine in my Puma developed a very noisy
rap when I started it and I believe the flat spot worn could have been
agrivated by the new oils without the higher zinc content. So maybe,
just maybe your oil choice might be doing your engine more good than
you thought. Just my opinion of course...................Dennis
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

On Thu, 22 May 2008 14:36:04 -0700, Sam <sjlord.DeleteThis@stanford.edu> wrote:

>Thanks for the link, John. But I'm curious what you guys use in your
>air-cooled engines. I've heard some conflicting advice. I feel safe with
>20W50, but I'm wondering if people prefer a lower weight.
>
>Of course, my climate matters: I'm talking about the San Fransisco Bay
>Area: it usually doesn't get above 100F in the summer, or below 40F in
>the winter.
>
>-Sam

Castrol 20W50 Syntec for the last 20 years with nary a drop or leak.
--
Michael Cecil
http://macecil.googlepages.com/index.htm
1970 VW Beetle "Millennium Sparrow"
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

On Fri, 23 May 2008 03:15:25 +0200, Dennis <weewik.TakeThisOut@grm.net> wrote:

> On May 22, 7:03 pm, "John" <susa....TakeThisOut@aapt.net.au> wrote:
>> Yes, interesting link. Reminds me when I was at my "inlaws" farm at
>> Tintenbar about
>> 1985. Old bloke had a Ferguson TEA20 tractor which used an old Vanguard
>> engine. Typical Brit engine, long stroke, low revs, heaps of torque.
>> Anyway,
>> was asked if
>> I could do an oil change on the tractor. Sure, piece of cake says the
>> unsuspecting.
>> Couldnt get the sump plug out for hours, siezed in. Eventually got it
>> out
>> and what
>> dropped out had the consistency of treacle , appearance of pitch and
>> viscosity
>> of both. Asked when it had its last oil change--- when it was made about
>> 1948
>> was as close as he could get. Sorry, thats just a little off topic ,
>>                              John
>>
>> john" <x....TakeThisOut@x.net> wrote in message
>>
>> news:RrudnSPJ7ZM7RKjVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@supernews.com...
>>
>>
>>
>> > "Sam" <sjl....TakeThisOut@stanford.edu> wrote in message
>> >news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
>> >> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity
>> sounds
>> >> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that
>> the
>> >> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do
>> you
>> >> guys think?
>>
>> >http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> As you know John, everyone has opinions on oils............and of
> course I think I am right. Be that as it may, your oil probibly does
> a lot more good than you know. Not only might the 20/50 help an older
> motor but in searching oils for zinc contents last year I found that
> most auto oils have removed the zinc as the new cars do not require it
> since they went to overhead cams and roller cams instead of the flat
> lifter/cam style. I read that an engine builder was having trouble
> with the engines since they were using solid lifters and he felt this
> was (zinc) required to prevent excessive wear and flat spots. Anyway
> Amsoil now sells a oil for older engines that require zinc. It turns
> out this is the exact same oil they sold before for diesel engines.
> As I looked at other brands it seems that most diesel oils have a high
> zinc content. The original engine in my Puma developed a very noisy
> rap when I started it and I believe the flat spot worn could have been
> agrivated by the new oils without the higher zinc content. So maybe,
> just maybe your oil choice might be doing your engine more good than
> you thought. Just my opinion of course...................Dennis

The Zink (and other) additives have been removed from "Gasoline" oil due
to emission requirements.
Diesel car/trucks do not have to meet the same standards, so they retained
the Zink.
A diesel engine also operates under higher stress than gasoline ditto.

Here is a good link:
http://bobistheoilguy.com/

A serious site despite its name..

J.



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

On May 22, 8:55 pm, "P.J.Berg" <BergR....TakeThisOut@bogus.no.invalid> wrote:
> On Fri, 23 May 2008 03:15:25 +0200, Dennis <wee....TakeThisOut@grm.net> wrote:
> > On May 22, 7:03 pm, "John" <susa....TakeThisOut@aapt.net.au> wrote:
> >> Yes, interesting link. Reminds me when I was at my "inlaws" farm at
> >> Tintenbar about
> >> 1985. Old bloke had a Ferguson TEA20 tractor which used an old Vanguard
> >> engine. Typical Brit engine, long stroke, low revs, heaps of torque.  
> >> Anyway,
> >> was asked if
> >> I could do an oil change on the tractor. Sure, piece of cake says the
> >> unsuspecting.
> >> Couldnt get the sump plug out for hours, siezed in. Eventually got it  
> >> out
> >> and what
> >> dropped out had the consistency of treacle , appearance of pitch and
> >> viscosity
> >> of both. Asked when it had its last oil change--- when it was made about
> >> 1948
> >> was as close as he could get. Sorry, thats just a little off topic ,
> >>                              John
>
> >> john" <x....TakeThisOut@x.net> wrote in message
>
> >>news:RrudnSPJ7ZM7RKjVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@supernews.com...
>
> >> > "Sam" <sjl....TakeThisOut@stanford.edu> wrote in message
> >> >news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
> >> >> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity  
> >> sounds
> >> >> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that  
> >> the
> >> >> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do  
> >> you
> >> >> guys think?
>
> >> >http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html-Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > As you know John, everyone has opinions on oils............and of
> > course I think I am right.  Be that as it may, your oil probibly does
> > a lot more good than you know.  Not only might the 20/50 help an older
> > motor but in searching oils for zinc contents last year I found that
> > most auto oils have removed the zinc as the new cars do not require it
> > since they went to overhead cams and roller cams instead of the flat
> > lifter/cam style.  I read that an engine builder was having trouble
> > with the engines since they were using solid lifters and he felt this
> > was (zinc) required to prevent excessive wear and flat spots.  Anyway
> > Amsoil now sells a oil for older engines that require zinc.  It turns
> > out this is the exact same oil they sold before for diesel engines.
> > As I looked at other brands it seems that most diesel oils have a high
> > zinc content.  The original engine in my Puma developed a very noisy
> > rap when I started it and I believe the flat spot worn could have been
> > agrivated by the new oils without the higher zinc content.  So maybe,
> > just maybe your oil choice might be doing your engine more good than
> > you thought.  Just my opinion of course...................Dennis
>
> The Zink (and other) additives have been removed from "Gasoline" oil due  
> to emission requirements.
> Diesel car/trucks do not have to meet the same standards, so they retained  
> the Zink.
> A diesel engine also operates under higher stress than gasoline ditto.
>
> Here is a good link:http://bobistheoilguy.com/
>
> A serious site despite its name..
>
> J.
>
> --
> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client:http://www.opera.com/mail/- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Yep, sounds right to me. Dennis
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

I,m just above Sydney in Aust and its climate sounds much the same as San
Francisco. Strangely enough the oil
I replaced was a 20W-40 but intended for petrol (or at least it didnt
specify oil). I think I,m resistant to the
placebo effect enough to discount that. I,m told that when one goes over 40
grade the oil flow around engine drops
which affects cooling.
John



"Sam" <sjlord.TakeThisOut@stanford.edu> wrote in message
news:g14p04$o5d$1@news.stanford.edu...
> Thanks for the link, John. But I'm curious what you guys use in your
> air-cooled engines. I've heard some conflicting advice. I feel safe with
> 20W50, but I'm wondering if people prefer a lower weight.
>
> Of course, my climate matters: I'm talking about the San Fransisco Bay
> Area: it usually doesn't get above 100F in the summer, or below 40F in the
> winter.
>
> -Sam
>
>
> john wrote:
>> "Sam" <sjlord.TakeThisOut@stanford.edu> wrote in message
>> news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
>>> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
>>> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
>>> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
>>> guys think?
>>
>> http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
>>
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

Yes, interesting link. Reminds me when I was at my "inlaws" farm at
Tintenbar about
1985. Old bloke had a Ferguson TEA20 tractor which used an old Vanguard
engine. Typical Brit engine, long stroke, low revs, heaps of torque. Anyway,
was asked if
I could do an oil change on the tractor. Sure, piece of cake says the
unsuspecting.
Couldnt get the sump plug out for hours, siezed in. Eventually got it out
and what
dropped out had the consistency of treacle , appearance of pitch and
viscosity
of both. Asked when it had its last oil change--- when it was made about
1948
was as close as he could get. Sorry, thats just a little off topic ,
John





john" <x.TakeThisOut@x.net> wrote in message
news:RrudnSPJ7ZM7RKjVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@supernews.com...
> "Sam" <sjlord.TakeThisOut@stanford.edu> wrote in message
> news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
>> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
>> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
>> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
>> guys think?
>
> http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

"Sam" <sjlord.RemoveThis@stanford.edu> schreef in bericht
news:g14p04$o5d$1@news.stanford.edu...
> Thanks for the link, John. But I'm curious what you guys use in your
> air-cooled engines. I've heard some conflicting advice. I feel safe with
> 20W50, but I'm wondering if people prefer a lower weight.
>
> Of course, my climate matters: I'm talking about the San Fransisco Bay
> Area: it usually doesn't get above 100F in the summer, or below 40F in the
> winter.
>
> -Sam
>
>
> john wrote:
>> "Sam" <sjlord.RemoveThis@stanford.edu> wrote in message
>> news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
>>> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
>>> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
>>> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
>>> guys think?
>>
>> http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
>>


15w40 non synthetic in middle european climate, not too cold and not too
warm.
Vary from -15 to +35 C (both very rare)

Roger
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil 

On May 24, 3:16 am, "bug '59" <bug '59 and bug... RemoveThis @bugs.nl> wrote:
> "Sam" <sjl... RemoveThis @stanford.edu> schreef in berichtnews:g14p04$o5d$1@news.stanford.edu...
>
>
>
> > Thanks for the link, John. But I'm curious what you guys use in your
> > air-cooled engines. I've heard some conflicting advice. I feel safe with
> > 20W50, but I'm wondering if people prefer a lower weight.
>
> > Of course, my climate matters: I'm talking about the San Fransisco Bay
> > Area: it usually doesn't get above 100F in the summer, or below 40F in the
> > winter.
>
> > -Sam
>
> > john wrote:
> >> "Sam" <sjl... RemoveThis @stanford.edu> wrote in message
> >>news:g145sf$13n$1@news.stanford.edu...
> >>> 20W40 was better than what? 20W50 or 10W40? The higher viscosity sounds
> >>> good, because the engine can get hot, but low viscosity means that the
> >>> engine is well lubricated even when you first start the car. What do you
> >>> guys think?
>
> >>http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
>
> 15w40 non synthetic in middle european climate, not too cold and not too
> warm.
> Vary from -15 to +35 C (both very rare)
>
> Roger

I just changed the oil on my '64 a couple of days ago and used......
wait for it...... 5W30. I've never owned a Beetle before with an
engine that runs as well as this one. The oil light DOES work but not
so much as a flicker when idling at a stop even after driving HARD
(75+ mph) in high heat for a while. I've driven the car about 200
miles since the change to 5W30 and it seems fine. On other Beetles
I've owned I had to run 20W50 or the oil light would come on at idle
if I'd been pushing the car hard. I've always read/heard that most of
the wear on the engine is supposed to happen during startup and
immediately after startup. Seems like the light "5" weight would help
the oil get distributed throughout the engine faster after startup
than a heavier weight oil, preventing some of that heavy wear. Oh
yeah, I (obviously) replaced the accelerator cable that broke and
repositioned the pin on the hinge at the bottom of the pedal so it's
fully seated in both hinge points now. I put axle grease on the cable
when threading it in and now the pedal is so light that it makes the
engine seem to rev up much more quickly. Of course the fast revving
up might also have something to do with the lighter oil... This baby
runs almost as quick/fast as my gsx-r 750. OK, well maybe not quite
that quick/fast.
 >> Stay informed about: 20w-4- Diesel Oil