1990 240SX Won't Start

John Henderson <jhenRemoveThis RemoveThis @talk21.com> wrote in
news:5p70kdFpo9mlU1@mid.individual.net:

> Larry wrote:
>
>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>> it went.
>>
>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>
> You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
> you measuring it?
>
> Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
> at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
> motor?
>
> Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
> If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
> the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
> while cranking.
>
> If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
> gives you very little information about the condition of the
> battery.
>
> Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
> slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>
> John
>

could be a bad ground wire somewhere,too.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

Sorry for the confusion...I should have been clearer. The engine doesn't
crank at all. I tested the voltage at the battery posts as well as the
connection on the starter. I also tested the voltage at the connector for
the solenoid. I did clean both posts and replaced the positive clamp as the
old one did have a break in it. All lights, power, accessories do power on.
Thanks again for the assistance


"John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis.DeleteThis@talk21.com> wrote in message
news:5p70kdFpo9mlU1@mid.individual.net...
> Larry wrote:
>
>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>> it went.
>>
>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>
> You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
> you measuring it?
>
> Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
> at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
> motor?
>
> Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
> If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
> the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
> while cranking.
>
> If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
> gives you very little information about the condition of the
> battery.
>
> Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
> slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>
> John
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

"Larry" <decarco1 DeleteThis @verizon.net> wrote in
news:lwEXi.1481$m44.477@trnddc06:

> Sorry for the confusion...I should have been clearer. The engine
> doesn't crank at all. I tested the voltage at the battery posts as
> well as the connection on the starter. I also tested the voltage at
> the connector for the solenoid. I did clean both posts and replaced
> the positive clamp as the old one did have a break in it. All lights,
> power, accessories do power on. Thanks again for the assistance
>
>
> "John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis DeleteThis @talk21.com> wrote in message
> news:5p70kdFpo9mlU1@mid.individual.net...
>> Larry wrote:
>>
>>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>>> it went.
>>>
>>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>>
>> You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
>> you measuring it?
>>
>> Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
>> at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
>> motor?
>>
>> Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
>> If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
>> the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
>> while cranking.
>>
>> If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
>> gives you very little information about the condition of the
>> battery.
>>
>> Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
>> slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>>
>> John
>
>
>

maybe your have a bad clutch lockout switch,that prevents cranking when the
clutch is not pressed in.
you should be able to measure 12V at the solenoid terminal when you try to
crank the motor.
you should be able to jumper 12V to that terminal and crank your motor.

If you have 12V at the solenoid terminal and the starter still does not
crank,then there's a solenoid/starter problem. Maybe a bad ground side
wire.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

on 11/4/2007 4:55 PM Larry said the following:
> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now it will not
> start turning the key, but will start with a push and popping the clutch.
> Thought it most likely was the starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in it went.
>
> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the battery
> voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are also okay. I didn't
> test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure how). I realize the trouble can't
> be diagnosed on-line, but I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test
> next. I've got a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller. Thanks in
> advance for the suggestions and input.
>
>
>

Could be a worn ignition switch. Put the key in the switch. Pull it back
counterclockwise hard towards you. Now, sneak up on the start position
slowly.
If it works, get a new ignition switch, or just start the car the same
way all the time.


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

Is there a way to safely bypass or jumper the safety switch (clutch lockout
switch) to test it?

Thanks again
"Jim Yanik" <jyanik RemoveThis @abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns99DF5534FB539jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.84...
> "Larry" <decarco1 RemoveThis @verizon.net> wrote in
> news:lwEXi.1481$m44.477@trnddc06:
>
>> Sorry for the confusion...I should have been clearer. The engine
>> doesn't crank at all. I tested the voltage at the battery posts as
>> well as the connection on the starter. I also tested the voltage at
>> the connector for the solenoid. I did clean both posts and replaced
>> the positive clamp as the old one did have a break in it. All lights,
>> power, accessories do power on. Thanks again for the assistance
>>
>>
>> "John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis RemoveThis @talk21.com> wrote in message
>> news:5p70kdFpo9mlU1@mid.individual.net...
>>> Larry wrote:
>>>
>>>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>>>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>>>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>>>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>>>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>>>> it went.
>>>>
>>>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>>>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>>>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>>>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>>>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>>>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>>>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>>>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>>>
>>> You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
>>> you measuring it?
>>>
>>> Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
>>> at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
>>> motor?
>>>
>>> Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
>>> If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
>>> the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
>>> while cranking.
>>>
>>> If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
>>> gives you very little information about the condition of the
>>> battery.
>>>
>>> Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
>>> slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>>>
>>> John
>>
>>
>>
>
> maybe your have a bad clutch lockout switch,that prevents cranking when
> the
> clutch is not pressed in.
> you should be able to measure 12V at the solenoid terminal when you try to
> crank the motor.
> you should be able to jumper 12V to that terminal and crank your motor.
>
> If you have 12V at the solenoid terminal and the starter still does not
> crank,then there's a solenoid/starter problem. Maybe a bad ground side
> wire.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

Jim Yanik wrote:

> maybe your have a bad clutch lockout switch,that prevents
> cranking when the clutch is not pressed in.

Or even a faulty ignition switch or wiring, in the "start"
position, not applying enough current to the solenoid.

> you should be able to measure 12V at the solenoid terminal
> when you try to crank the motor.
> you should be able to jumper 12V to that terminal and crank
> your motor.

That's a good test.

> If you have 12V at the solenoid terminal and the starter still
> does not crank,then there's a solenoid/starter problem. Maybe
> a bad ground side wire.

I don't know what the voltage should be between the starter
motor body and the battery earth terminal while trying to crank
the engine, but I'd be suspicious about a bad earth connection
if it was more than about 2 volts.

Larry mentioned that the starter had been tested, but we don't
know how thoroughly. I wonder if the brushes are worn.

John
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

I just replaced the rubber stopper on my 200sx clutch (130k miles). You
should be able to get
your head on the floor and look up at the clutch pedal assembly with a
flashlight. The
rubber stopper presses on the small tab/button of the clutch switch. If
it's missing you'll
see a metal circle (where the stopper goes in) move to the switch as you
depress the pedal.
(The switch is fixed/does not move). In a pinch, press the clutch switch
button while
someone starts the car (Must be in neutral, or severe injury can result!)

However, if you have 12 volts to your starter when you try to start, it
sounds like a bad
starter assembly



"Trebl" <trebl RemoveThis @verizon.net> wrote in message
news:2GJXi.3031$b%1.2611@trnddc01...
> Is there a way to safely bypass or jumper the safety switch (clutch
> lockout switch) to test it?
>
> Thanks again
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik RemoveThis @abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns99DF5534FB539jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.84...
>> "Larry" <decarco1 RemoveThis @verizon.net> wrote in
>> news:lwEXi.1481$m44.477@trnddc06:
>>
>>> Sorry for the confusion...I should have been clearer. The engine
>>> doesn't crank at all. I tested the voltage at the battery posts as
>>> well as the connection on the starter. I also tested the voltage at
>>> the connector for the solenoid. I did clean both posts and replaced
>>> the positive clamp as the old one did have a break in it. All lights,
>>> power, accessories do power on. Thanks again for the assistance
>>>
>>>
>>> "John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis RemoveThis @talk21.com> wrote in message
>>> news:5p70kdFpo9mlU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>> Larry wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>>>>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>>>>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>>>>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>>>>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>>>>> it went.
>>>>>
>>>>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>>>>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>>>>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>>>>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>>>>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>>>>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>>>>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>>>>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>>>>
>>>> You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
>>>> you measuring it?
>>>>
>>>> Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
>>>> at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
>>>> motor?
>>>>
>>>> Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
>>>> If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
>>>> the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
>>>> while cranking.
>>>>
>>>> If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
>>>> gives you very little information about the condition of the
>>>> battery.
>>>>
>>>> Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
>>>> slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> maybe your have a bad clutch lockout switch,that prevents cranking when
>> the
>> clutch is not pressed in.
>> you should be able to measure 12V at the solenoid terminal when you try
>> to
>> crank the motor.
>> you should be able to jumper 12V to that terminal and crank your motor.
>>
>> If you have 12V at the solenoid terminal and the starter still does not
>> crank,then there's a solenoid/starter problem. Maybe a bad ground side
>> wire.
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

"Gary" <gary245.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:kbNXi.14276$4V6.10724@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net:

> I just replaced the rubber stopper on my 200sx clutch (130k miles).
> You should be able to get
> your head on the floor and look up at the clutch pedal assembly with a
> flashlight. The
> rubber stopper presses on the small tab/button of the clutch switch.
> If it's missing you'll
> see a metal circle (where the stopper goes in) move to the switch as
> you depress the pedal.
> (The switch is fixed/does not move). In a pinch, press the clutch
> switch button while
> someone starts the car (Must be in neutral, or severe injury can
> result!)
>
> However, if you have 12 volts to your starter when you try to start,
> it sounds like a bad
> starter assembly

I had the same thing happen on the brake lights on my 94 Integra;the
plastic button crumbled from age and nothing was pressing on the brake
switch,so the brake lights stayed on all the time.
I had looked under there and didn't notice anything was missing.I thought I
had to have the switch replaced,but the dealer put in a new button and
"only charged me" $60.
(that switch was a bear to replace...that's why I took it to a dealer.)


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start 

John Henderson <jhenRemoveThis DeleteThis @talk21.com> wrote:

>Larry wrote:
>
>> I need your expertise. The car had been running fine, but now
>> it will not start turning the key, but will start with a push
>> and popping the clutch. Thought it most likely was the
>> starter, so I pulled it and had it tested.
>> Of course it and the solenoid tested out just fine. Back in
>> it went.
>>
>> There is correct voltage to the starter, the solenoid and the
>> battery voltage is fine. Plugs, wires and distributor cap are
>> also okay. I didn't test the starter relay (wasn't quite sure
>> how). I realize the trouble can't be diagnosed on-line, but
>> I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/test next. I've got
>> a Chilton manual for it and am technically inclined to a
>> point, but as I've gotten older, the point has gotten duller.
>> Thanks in advance for the suggestions and input.
>
>You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are
>you measuring it?
>
>Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it
>at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter
>motor?
>
>Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts?
>If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then
>the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically
>while cranking.
>
>If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this
>gives you very little information about the condition of the
>battery.
>
>Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more
>slowly than would be expected from a good battery?
>
>John

It's probably too late for this poor guy, but maybe this will help the
next person. Be sure to check the clutch safety switch. On my '89,
the button that pressed the clutch safety switch broke recently. So,
pressing the clutch didn't engage the switch anymore. Without the
switch being depressed, the starter won't turn.
 >> Stay informed about: 1990 240SX Won't Start