Tell me about 1983 533i issues

"Kevin Rhodes" <krhodesnospam.TakeThisOut@maine.rr.com> wrote in message
news:EGNid.365766$bp1.64519@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
 >I am contemplating buying my first BMW. I have owned numerous VW, Volvo,
 >Saab
 > and Peugeots, and my Mother drives an 83 528e, so I think I have a
 > reasonable
 > expectation of what I am in for. What are particular trouble spots to look
 > out
 > for? The car in question is allegedly rust-free, is a 5spd, and seems in
 > reasonably good order. I generally do all my own mechanical work.
 >
 > Thanks for your input!

Kevin, I'm gonna level with you: My '83 633csi was a PITA to keep
repaired. The 633 is mechanically identical to your 533; but with
hand-built Karmann coachwork, so most mechanical problems are shared between
5- and 6-series vehicles.

Due to all of the problems I was having with my beloved 633csi, I founded
the Big_Coupe_Groupe email list, which quickly grew to become the best and
biggest "Big Coupe" club on the planet. Thanks to the tireless dedication of
Norm Grills (who took BCG over from me), the BCG websites has grown into an
invaluable information resource for maintaining and repairing 5-series and
6-series BMW's made in the 1980's (E24). I recommend that you consult the
bcg's information resources for valuable tips to keep your 533 in top
condition, or to find out what to expect before you buy:

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.normgrills.net/bcg/" target="_blank">http://www.normgrills.net/bcg/</a>

Here's what to expect. (This is from memory):

Brittle nylon timing chain tensioners often break, which allows the timing
chain to jump teeth, causing the pistons to destructively interfere with the
valvetrain, shattering valves and trashing the engine. If you're not ready
to preventatively replace the timing chain idler, consider a different car.
I've seen at least one BWM enthusiast lose his enthusiasm instantly when he
saw the estimate for repairing his shattered valvetrain.

Leaking rear main seals are pandemic in the Big Six engines. Plan to replace
the rear main seal.

AC compressors are notoriously unreliable, and don't use R34 refrigerant.
Plan to replace the compressor with an aftermarket component.

The fluid clutch on the radiator fan is notorious for failing. If the car
overheats while idling, that's the culprit. It's pretty easy to replace,
and not terribly expensive.

Rubber seals around the doors and windows rot and fail, causing annoying
wind noise and water leaks. They are very expensive to replace, if you can
even find them. BMW used to be good about keeping a stock of replacement
rubber parts. Not sure if they still do.

With high-mileage manual shift cars, the shifter bushings wear out. Plan to
replace them.

The 3.3L M50 engine uses the canister-style oil filter (reuseable metal
canister with drop-in filter). It is huge, and does a great job of
filtering oil; but it's a PITA to replace. Replacement filter cartridges
are getting scarce, and very expensive.

BMW windshield wiper motors are notorious for failing. The repair is fairly
easy - just wipe the grease out of the motor contacts.

Electric window motors can stop working because of dust getting into them.
Disassemble door panels, fish out the motors, clean contacts to repair.
It's not easy. I had to do it 4 times on my 633csi. The trick to keep them
working is to run the windows up and down frequently. Don't let them sit
for very long, or they'll stop working.

533's are notorious for rusting. If you drive it in the winter salt, it
WILL rust. Even if you don't, it will probably rust just from exposure to
moisture (mind did).

533's, even with snow tires, aren't the best choice for snow and ice
driving. Get a winter car to go with the BMW. (see above)

The infamous cam oiler failure in these engines can cause a lot of expensive
trouble. Gotta check frequently to make sure the cams are getting oil.

The rubber "guibo" joint in the driveline can fail catastrophically, causing
the driveshaft to flop dangerously or to be ripped off the car, causing
expensive havoc and destruction, and possibly a nasty accident. Check it,
and replace as needed.

BMW seat rails usually fail, causing the seats to flop and clunk annoyingly.

The cartridges on the hydraulic lifters for the hood and seat backs will
more than likely have failed. Replacements are very expensive.

The 6-series coupes had a dangerous steering box, held in place with a
single bolt. That single bolt had a habit of shearing off, causing total
loss of steering control. Yikes! I don't know if the 5-series cars have
the same design, or not. If they do, be sure to check that bolt frequently.

It's been 8 years since I got rid of my '83 633csi. Beautiful car; but what
a royal pain to keep in repair! I'm sorry to be discouraging; but I want
you to know what you're getting into before you take the plunge.

Hope this helps,

Barry<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Tell me about 1983 533i issues 

"B. Sanders" <nospam.TakeThisOut@nomail.tv> wrote in message news:<D7Djd.71755$R05.55876@attbi_s53>...
 > "Kevin Rhodes" <krhodesnospam.TakeThisOut@maine.rr.com> wrote in message
 > news:EGNid.365766$bp1.64519@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
  > >I am contemplating buying my first BMW. I have owned numerous VW, Volvo,
  > >Saab
  > > and Peugeots, and my Mother drives an 83 528e, so I think I have a
  > > reasonable
  > > expectation of what I am in for. What are particular trouble spots to look
  > > out
  > > for? The car in question is allegedly rust-free, is a 5spd, and seems in
  > > reasonably good order. I generally do all my own mechanical work.
  > >
  > > Thanks for your input!
 >
 > Kevin, I'm gonna level with you: My '83 633csi was a PITA to keep
 > repaired. The 633 is mechanically identical to your 533;

Not having access ot the original post, it appears he's asking about a
528e, not a 533i. It has a completely different drivetrain back to
the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft.

 > hand-built Karmann coachwork,

OK; we all know Italians invented automotive structural rust and
Karmann licensed it for use in the E24. However, the E28 isn't built
by Karmann. It is one of the most robust, rust-resistant BMW bodies
ever made. At least up to that time.

 > so most mechanical problems are shared between 5- and 6-series vehicles.

So are most of the mechanical advantages - unless you had an E12-based
E24. In that case, you should know that the E28 was better.

 > the BCG websites has grown into an
 > invaluable information resource for maintaining and repairing 5-series and
 > 6-series BMW's made in the 1980's (E24).

I'm sure it's very good. I assume you also know that because the
early E24 shared mechanicals with the E12 5 Series, some problems of
your 633 are unheard-of in an E28.

 > I recommend that you consult the
 > bcg's information resources for valuable tips to keep your 533 in top
 > condition, or to find out what to expect before you buy:

I, OTOH, recommend you check the archives at MyE28.com as well as the
Roadfly E28 group:

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://forums.mye28.com/e28/" target="_blank">http://forums.mye28.com/e28/</a> and <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://forums.mye28.com/e28/" target="_blank">http://forums.mye28.com/e28/</a>

Both are dedicated *E28* groups in which I regularly participate. The
precise information you need about a 528e (an excellent car, BTW; I
had an '82) as well as the 533i will be found there.

 > Here's what to expect. (This is from memory):
 >
 > Brittle nylon timing chain tensioners often break, which allows the timing
 > chain to jump teeth, causing the pistons to destructively interfere with the
 > valvetrain, shattering valves and trashing the engine.

The 528e doesn't have a timing chain. It has a timing *belt* that
likewise requires preventive changing every 60K miles or so, but it's
a much less involved process than doing the Big Six chain job.

OTOH, I've never *seen* a Big Six have the failure described here, and
mine have all had from 165K-250K miles on them without having been
opened up. I *do* know that this tensioner makes a helluva racket
before failing and you'd have to be deaf not to notice it well in
advance.

 > Leaking rear main seals are pandemic in the Big Six engines. Plan to replace
 > the rear main seal.

Hardly ever an issue. Sure; they lose a bit of oil. What 16-22
year-old car doesn't? Put more in. Not a problem. Still, this isn't
a Big Six. It's a 528e.

 > AC compressors are notoriously unreliable, and don't use R34 refrigerant.

What's unreliable is the rest of the seals and components in the
system. Compressors work just fine. They also use R134a if you
simply do the conversion that my '88 535is has.

 > Plan to replace the compressor with an aftermarket component.

Uh ... yeah.

 > The fluid clutch on the radiator fan is notorious for failing. If the car
 > overheats while idling, that's the culprit. It's pretty easy to replace,
 > and not terribly expensive.

Finally something almost totally correct. (The auxiliary electric fan
system can also fail.)

 > Rubber seals around the doors and windows rot and fail, causing annoying
 > wind noise and water leaks. They are very expensive to replace, if you can
 > even find them. BMW used to be good about keeping a stock of replacement
 > rubber parts. Not sure if they still do.

Hardly ever seen these fail and never heard they were real expensive
in any event; at least not on the E28, which, as a sedan, has
different weatherstripping functions than the E24. What's much more
likely is that you'll find the little nylon door latch 'buffers'
missing, so the door doesn't *quite* close tightly. These might run
you *nearly $10* for a full set of four at your friendly local BMW
dealer ...

 > With high-mileage manual shift cars, the shifter bushings wear out. Plan to
 > replace them.

OK; 165K, 250K, 200K, and 176K on my cars alone. Not to mention all
the others on which I've never seen this failure - at least as long as
the box wasn't abused.

 > The 3.3L M50 engine uses the canister-style oil filter (reuseable metal
 > canister with drop-in filter). It is huge, and does a great job of
 > filtering oil; but it's a PITA to replace.

The 'through bolt' type (like on my old Bavaria) *is* a PITA. The
'top bolt' type less so. The 528e uses a spin-on cartridge filter,
just like any Ford, Chevy, or Toyota.

 > Replacement filter cartridges are getting scarce, and very expensive.

Yeah. I had to pay *$4.00 each* when I bought a box of six on ebay
last month!

 > BMW windshield wiper motors are notorious for failing. The repair is fairly
 > easy - just wipe the grease out of the motor contacts.

Thanks for that. *If* I ever see it happen, I'll know what to do. Of
course, a good coating of Rain-X can obviate the need for them in the
first place. I hardly ever *use* my wipers.

 > Electric window motors can stop working because of dust getting into them.

More often because the circuit breaker trips or the switches get
cruddy inside. Push the 'Mystery Button' or shoot contact cleaner
into the switches. Works about 95% of the time.

 > 533's are notorious for rusting. If you drive it in the winter salt, it
 > WILL rust. Even if you don't, it will probably rust just from exposure to
 > moisture (mind did).

As I already said, the E28 body is actually notorious for *not*
rusting the way the E24 does. If you drive it in salt, of course the
lower parts will eventually go away on you. They're lots easier to
replace than on the E24.

 > 533's, even with snow tires, aren't the best choice for snow and ice
 > driving.

They are if you use *four good* snow tires and have a limited slip
differential, as have most of my E28s. Without it, though, even the
'underpowered' 528e can be a handful.

 > The infamous cam oiler failure in these engines can cause a lot of expensive
 > trouble. Gotta check frequently to make sure the cams are getting oil.

The 528e doesn't have that.

 > The rubber "guibo" joint in the driveline can fail catastrophically, causing
 > the driveshaft to flop dangerously or to be ripped off the car, causing
 > expensive havoc and destruction, and possibly a nasty accident. Check it,
 > and replace as needed.

One more thing I've *never* seen nor heard of. Sure; it *could*
happen, but the vibrations it would produce well *before* failing
would be impossible not to notice. On most E28s, you're more likely
to find the center driveshaft bearing going bad by either seizing or
having the rubber tearing away from the cage to which it's molded. It
will either 1) shriek like a Banshee or 2) shake like Tina Turner, and
you *will* notice it. When you change *that*, change the guibo, too.
It's time. The job is very straightforward and the parts will run you
under $75.

 > BMW seat rails usually fail, causing the seats to flop and clunk annoyingly.

Uhhh, nope again. There *is* that notorious power headrest short
cable failure you can fix in a half hour for free, but ...

 > The cartridges on the hydraulic lifters for the hood and seat backs will
 > more than likely have failed. Replacements are very expensive.

Upwards of $30 for the hood shocks (including shipping) on ebay.
*Seat backs*?

 > The 6-series coupes had a dangerous steering box, held in place with a
 > single bolt. That single bolt had a habit of shearing off, causing total
 > loss of steering control. Yikes! I don't know if the 5-series cars have
 > the same design, or not. If they do, be sure to check that bolt frequently.

Right for the second time today. Usually gets loose before breaking.
You'd notice.

 > It's been 8 years since I got rid of my '83 633csi. Beautiful car; but what
 > a royal pain to keep in repair! I'm sorry to be discouraging; but I want
 > you to know what you're getting into before you take the plunge.

Well, a dose of reality is fine. What are *you* talking about?
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that; still doing it)<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Tell me about 1983 533i issues 

"C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a8a578a8.0411081047.5e57f395@posting.google.com...
 > "B. Sanders" <nospam.DeleteThis@nomail.tv> wrote in message
 > news:<D7Djd.71755$R05.55876@attbi_s53>...
  >> "Kevin Rhodes" <krhodesnospam.DeleteThis@maine.rr.com> wrote in message
  >> news:EGNid.365766$bp1.64519@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
   >> >I am contemplating buying my first BMW. I have owned numerous VW, Volvo,
   >> >Saab
   >> > and Peugeots, and my Mother drives an 83 528e, so I think I have a
   >> > reasonable
   >> > expectation of what I am in for. What are particular trouble spots to
   >> > look
   >> > out
   >> > for? The car in question is allegedly rust-free, is a 5spd, and seems
   >> > in
   >> > reasonably good order. I generally do all my own mechanical work.
   >> >
   >> > Thanks for your input!
  >>
  >> Kevin, I'm gonna level with you: My '83 633csi was a PITA to keep
  >> repaired. The 633 is mechanically identical to your 533;
 >
 > Not having access ot the original post, it appears he's asking about a
 > 528e, not a 533i. It has a completely different drivetrain back to
 > the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft.
 >
  >> hand-built Karmann coachwork,
 >
 > OK; we all know Italians invented automotive structural rust and
 > Karmann licensed it for use in the E24. However, the E28 isn't built
 > by Karmann. It is one of the most robust, rust-resistant BMW bodies
 > ever made. At least up to that time.
 >
  >> so most mechanical problems are shared between 5- and 6-series vehicles.
 >
 > So are most of the mechanical advantages - unless you had an E12-based
 > E24. In that case, you should know that the E28 was better.
 >
  >> the BCG websites has grown into an
  >> invaluable information resource for maintaining and repairing 5-series
  >> and
  >> 6-series BMW's made in the 1980's (E24).
 >
 > I'm sure it's very good. I assume you also know that because the
 > early E24 shared mechanicals with the E12 5 Series, some problems of
 > your 633 are unheard-of in an E28.
 >
  >> I recommend that you consult the
  >> bcg's information resources for valuable tips to keep your 533 in top
  >> condition, or to find out what to expect before you buy:
 >
 > I, OTOH, recommend you check the archives at MyE28.com as well as the
 > Roadfly E28 group:
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://forums.mye28.com/e28/" target="_blank">http://forums.mye28.com/e28/</a> and <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://forums.mye28.com/e28/</font" target="_blank">http://forums.mye28.com/e28/</font</a>>
 >
 > Both are dedicated *E28* groups in which I regularly participate. The
 > precise information you need about a 528e (an excellent car, BTW; I
 > had an '82) as well as the 533i will be found there.
 >
  >> Here's what to expect. (This is from memory):
  >>
  >> Brittle nylon timing chain tensioners often break, which allows the
  >> timing
  >> chain to jump teeth, causing the pistons to destructively interfere with
  >> the
  >> valvetrain, shattering valves and trashing the engine.
 >
 > The 528e doesn't have a timing chain. It has a timing *belt* that
 > likewise requires preventive changing every 60K miles or so, but it's
 > a much less involved process than doing the Big Six chain job.
 >
 > OTOH, I've never *seen* a Big Six have the failure described here, and
 > mine have all had from 165K-250K miles on them without having been
 > opened up. I *do* know that this tensioner makes a helluva racket
 > before failing and you'd have to be deaf not to notice it well in
 > advance.


  >> Leaking rear main seals are pandemic in the Big Six engines. Plan to
  >> replace
  >> the rear main seal.
 >
 > Hardly ever an issue. Sure; they lose a bit of oil. What 16-22
 > year-old car doesn't? Put more in. Not a problem. Still, this isn't
 > a Big Six. It's a 528e.
 >
  >> AC compressors are notoriously unreliable, and don't use R34 refrigerant.
 >
 > What's unreliable is the rest of the seals and components in the
 > system. Compressors work just fine. They also use R134a if you
 > simply do the conversion that my '88 535is has.
 >
  >> Plan to replace the compressor with an aftermarket component.
 >
 > Uh ... yeah.
 >
  >> The fluid clutch on the radiator fan is notorious for failing. If the
  >> car
  >> overheats while idling, that's the culprit. It's pretty easy to replace,
  >> and not terribly expensive.
 >
 > Finally something almost totally correct. (The auxiliary electric fan
 > system can also fail.)
 >
  >> Rubber seals around the doors and windows rot and fail, causing annoying
  >> wind noise and water leaks. They are very expensive to replace, if you
  >> can
  >> even find them. BMW used to be good about keeping a stock of replacement
  >> rubber parts. Not sure if they still do.
 >
 > Hardly ever seen these fail and never heard they were real expensive
 > in any event; at least not on the E28, which, as a sedan, has
 > different weatherstripping functions than the E24. What's much more
 > likely is that you'll find the little nylon door latch 'buffers'
 > missing, so the door doesn't *quite* close tightly. These might run
 > you *nearly $10* for a full set of four at your friendly local BMW
 > dealer ...
 >
  >> With high-mileage manual shift cars, the shifter bushings wear out. Plan
  >> to
  >> replace them.
 >
 > OK; 165K, 250K, 200K, and 176K on my cars alone. Not to mention all
 > the others on which I've never seen this failure - at least as long as
 > the box wasn't abused.
 >
  >> The 3.3L M50 engine uses the canister-style oil filter (reuseable metal
  >> canister with drop-in filter). It is huge, and does a great job of
  >> filtering oil; but it's a PITA to replace.
 >
 > The 'through bolt' type (like on my old Bavaria) *is* a PITA. The
 > 'top bolt' type less so. The 528e uses a spin-on cartridge filter,
 > just like any Ford, Chevy, or Toyota.
 >
  >> Replacement filter cartridges are getting scarce, and very expensive.
 >
 > Yeah. I had to pay *$4.00 each* when I bought a box of six on ebay
 > last month!
 >
  >> BMW windshield wiper motors are notorious for failing. The repair is
  >> fairly
  >> easy - just wipe the grease out of the motor contacts.
 >
 > Thanks for that. *If* I ever see it happen, I'll know what to do. Of
 > course, a good coating of Rain-X can obviate the need for them in the
 > first place. I hardly ever *use* my wipers.
 >
  >> Electric window motors can stop working because of dust getting into
  >> them.
 >
 > More often because the circuit breaker trips or the switches get
 > cruddy inside. Push the 'Mystery Button' or shoot contact cleaner
 > into the switches. Works about 95% of the time.
 >
  >> 533's are notorious for rusting. If you drive it in the winter salt, it
  >> WILL rust. Even if you don't, it will probably rust just from exposure
  >> to
  >> moisture (mind did).
 >
 > As I already said, the E28 body is actually notorious for *not*
 > rusting the way the E24 does. If you drive it in salt, of course the
 > lower parts will eventually go away on you. They're lots easier to
 > replace than on the E24.
 >
  >> 533's, even with snow tires, aren't the best choice for snow and ice
  >> driving.
 >
 > They are if you use *four good* snow tires and have a limited slip
 > differential, as have most of my E28s. Without it, though, even the
 > 'underpowered' 528e can be a handful.
 >
  >> The infamous cam oiler failure in these engines can cause a lot of
  >> expensive
  >> trouble. Gotta check frequently to make sure the cams are getting oil.
 >
 > The 528e doesn't have that.
 >
  >> The rubber "guibo" joint in the driveline can fail catastrophically,
  >> causing
  >> the driveshaft to flop dangerously or to be ripped off the car, causing
  >> expensive havoc and destruction, and possibly a nasty accident. Check it,
  >> and replace as needed.
 >
 > One more thing I've *never* seen nor heard of. Sure; it *could*
 > happen, but the vibrations it would produce well *before* failing
 > would be impossible not to notice. On most E28s, you're more likely
 > to find the center driveshaft bearing going bad by either seizing or
 > having the rubber tearing away from the cage to which it's molded. It
 > will either 1) shriek like a Banshee or 2) shake like Tina Turner, and
 > you *will* notice it. When you change *that*, change the guibo, too.
 > It's time. The job is very straightforward and the parts will run you
 > under $75.
 >
  >> BMW seat rails usually fail, causing the seats to flop and clunk
  >> annoyingly.
 >
 > Uhhh, nope again. There *is* that notorious power headrest short
 > cable failure you can fix in a half hour for free, but ...
 >
  >> The cartridges on the hydraulic lifters for the hood and seat backs will
  >> more than likely have failed. Replacements are very expensive.
 >
 > Upwards of $30 for the hood shocks (including shipping) on ebay.
 > *Seat backs*?
 >
  >> The 6-series coupes had a dangerous steering box, held in place with a
  >> single bolt. That single bolt had a habit of shearing off, causing total
  >> loss of steering control. Yikes! I don't know if the 5-series cars have
  >> the same design, or not. If they do, be sure to check that bolt
  >> frequently.
 >
 > Right for the second time today. Usually gets loose before breaking.
 > You'd notice.
 >
  >> It's been 8 years since I got rid of my '83 633csi. Beautiful car; but
  >> what
  >> a royal pain to keep in repair! I'm sorry to be discouraging; but I want
  >> you to know what you're getting into before you take the plunge.
 >
 > Well, a dose of reality is fine. What are *you* talking about?
 > --
 > C.R. Krieger
 > (Been there; done that; still doing it)

What an asshole. I guess this is one of those legendary obsessive jerks
that give BMW's a bad name.

<plonk>

B. Sanders<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Tell me about 1983 533i issues 

"C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a8a578a8.0411081047.5e57f395@posting.google.com...
 > "B. Sanders" <nospam.TakeThisOut@nomail.tv> wrote in message
 > news:<D7Djd.71755$R05.55876@attbi_s53>...
  >> "Kevin Rhodes" <krhodesnospam.TakeThisOut@maine.rr.com> wrote in message
  >> news:EGNid.365766$bp1.64519@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
   >> >I am contemplating buying my first BMW. I have owned numerous VW, Volvo,
   >> >Saab
   >> > and Peugeots, and my Mother drives an 83 528e, so I think I have a
   >> > reasonable
   >> > expectation of what I am in for. What are particular trouble spots to
   >> > look
   >> > out
   >> > for? The car in question is allegedly rust-free, is a 5spd, and seems
   >> > in
   >> > reasonably good order. I generally do all my own mechanical work.
   >> >
   >> > Thanks for your input!
  >>
  >> Kevin, I'm gonna level with you: My '83 633csi was a PITA to keep
  >> repaired. The 633 is mechanically identical to your 533;
 >
 > Not having access ot the original post, it appears he's asking about a
 > 528e, not a 533i. It has a completely different drivetrain back to
 > the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft.

You just made yourself look VERY stupid. The OP was specifically asking
about a *533i* which is mechanically identical to a 633csi (except for the
body). I snipped the rest of your arrogant diatribe, and plonked your dumb
ass for good measure.

Go race a Camaro, loser.

B. Sanders<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Tell me about 1983 533i issues 

"B. Sanders" <nospam.DeleteThis@nomail.com> wrote in message news:<7P3kd.67560$HA.39790@attbi_s01>...
 > "C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
 > news:a8a578a8.0411081047.5e57f395@posting.google.com...
  > >
  > > Not having access ot the original post, it appears he's asking about a
  > > 528e, not a 533i. It has a completely different drivetrain back to
  > > the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft.
 >
 > You just made yourself look VERY stupid.

No; just that I'm reading in Google groups. That means that *you*
apparently changed the subject line when replying to the previous
post, establishing a new thread in which yours was the *first*
message.

 > The OP was specifically asking
 > about a *533i* which is mechanically identical to a 633csi (except for the
 > body).

However, the only one mentioned in his snipped (by you) message was
the 528e.

 > I snipped the rest of your arrogant diatribe,

Oh. And yours *wasn't*? Basically, you tried to tell the guy the
533i is an expensive unreliable beast because you had a particularly
crappy E24 on which you gave up eight years ago. As a result, you
speculate about some of the issues he *might* encounter with an E28
because you simply don't have any experience at it. I am a *current*
E28 owner and enthusiast (on my fourth one) and I can say from direct
*recent* experience that you're wrong on most points.

 > and plonked your dumb ass for good measure.

We'll see ...
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that)<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Tell me about 1983 533i issues